R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-02-2011, 01:29 PM   #3811
Tech Elite
 
Riketsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Riketsu
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
So, you thinned the front A-arm. I have to try and run into a front corner to take you and Marco out.

See you at RCX. I will loctite my wheel nuts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrckymrk View Post
Make sure they are Mugen wheel nuts or you will run into the same problem again.


I only had to use locktite once... Then the residue of dry locktite will be enough to keep the wheel there...

Although, for the mains I always use locktite on the thread and a small drop of CA after the nut has been tightened just to play it safe ...
__________________
eBay user id: riketsukirai
Riketsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2011, 10:28 PM   #3812
Tech Regular
 
FASRICK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Posts: 314
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
Thanks, Marco's car was actually better.... You joining us at RCX right? MuUUgen in full effect...lol
Yes sir, I will be at the RCX representing to the fullest and you are right Marco's car was turning on a dime
__________________
Mugen Seiki Racing U.S.A / O.S Engines / Flash Point Tires/ Protoform / Flash Point Fuel / G.L.A.R.C / Playing To Win
FASRICK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2011, 11:48 PM   #3813
Tech Elite
 
Bishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 2,223
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Although, for the mains I always use locktite on the thread and a small drop of CA after the nut has been tightened just to play it safe ...
You guys using serrated nuts?, can't say I'm a fan, always see people loosing wheels with them, so far I have just been using nyloc nuts myself, when the nylon gets too soft I thrown on a new set.


Recently I was not going to Pro tourer my MTX4R, holding out for the new 5 to do Pro, but I recently got a taste for speed, so a cheap N12T1 will see me running my 4 on weekends soonish, looking forward to it.
__________________
QRCCRA
www.qrccra.org.au
www.facebook.com/englandparkraceway
www.myrcm.ch/main?pLa=en&hId[1]=org&dId[O]=4331
Bishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 01:38 PM   #3814
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 184
Default

looking for parts online and cant seem to find this.... metal gears for inside rear differential
Ghett0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 02:04 PM   #3815
Tech Fanatic
 
Seisick's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 845
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghett0 View Post
looking for parts online and cant seem to find this.... metal gears for inside rear differential
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mugen-MTX4R-Diff...item483ec759c8

there u go sir, or you can have your lhs ordered from mugen racing, just ordered
some weeks ago and it was in stock!
__________________
HobbymaniA
GoT MuGeN?
Seisick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 02:39 PM   #3816
Tech Fanatic
 
Seisick's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 845
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post


I only had to use locktite once... Then the residue of dry locktite will be enough to keep the wheel there...

Although, for the mains I always use locktite on the thread and a small drop of CA after the nut has been tightened just to play it safe ...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSGZ2&P=ML

best of both, nylon and serrated
__________________
HobbymaniA
GoT MuGeN?
Seisick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 03:09 PM   #3817
Tech Elite
 
JLock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,455
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

You can also go to your LHS and ask for the Traxxas 4mm wheel nuts. They are nylon and serrated as well. I have used them and never had an issue with one backing off. Rule of thumb: if you take wheels on and off your car constantly, you might want to replace the wheel nuts a couple of times each race season.
__________________
Texas 5
It's not what you know; it's what you can prove.
The only thing that is for sure is that nothing is for sure!!!
The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one.
There are 2 things in life that are infinite: the universe and stupidity.
JLock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 03:45 PM   #3818
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 184
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mugen-MTX4R-Diff...item483ec759c8

there u go sir, or you can have your lhs ordered from mugen racing, just ordered
some weeks ago and it was in stock!
appreciate it..

Last edited by Ghett0; 03-22-2011 at 12:12 PM.
Ghett0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 12:17 PM   #3819
Tech Elite
 
Bishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 2,223
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Finally did some Pro tourer racing, MTX4R did ok with some flaws, rear bar was not working so I pulled it, car lacked steering, and likely was not riding the recently growing bumpy track surface that well.

Question about rear bars, which would be softer, the option blade rear bar set flat, or the 2.0mm option bar?, I want light as possible while still retaining a bar.

Also I'm not overly sure about my logic on it, but I put a 4mm chassis on the car when I got it, worked well for short track with lower power, but now with more power and long track going bumpy, I feel maybe a 3mm would hook up better?.

Probably going to drop to 500 weight oil as well, and lighter diff oil, though I'm not sure I wanted to spend this much time on it with the 5 coming out later this year.
__________________
QRCCRA
www.qrccra.org.au
www.facebook.com/englandparkraceway
www.myrcm.ch/main?pLa=en&hId[1]=org&dId[O]=4331
Bishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 04:56 PM   #3820
Tech Regular
 
getpip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 369
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
Finally did some Pro tourer racing, MTX4R did ok with some flaws, rear bar was not working so I pulled it, car lacked steering, and likely was not riding the recently growing bumpy track surface that well.

Question about rear bars, which would be softer, the option blade rear bar set flat, or the 2.0mm option bar?, I want light as possible while still retaining a bar.

Also I'm not overly sure about my logic on it, but I put a 4mm chassis on the car when I got it, worked well for short track with lower power, but now with more power and long track going bumpy, I feel maybe a 3mm would hook up better?.

Probably going to drop to 500 weight oil as well, and lighter diff oil, though I'm not sure I wanted to spend this much time on it with the 5 coming out later this year.
It's been a while but I am sure I remember that the option flat sway bar always felt on the stiff side.
I often tried it but always ended up back with the wire set up.
That said of course a lighter rear bar may rob more steering.

Do you run spool front diff rear or diff/diff?
Where do you lack steering?
__________________
------------------------
Check out my blog: www.pipskiracing.blogspot.com
------------------------
getpip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2011, 10:36 PM   #3821
Tech Elite
 
Bishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 2,223
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by getpip View Post
It's been a while but I am sure I remember that the option flat sway bar always felt on the stiff side.
I often tried it but always ended up back with the wire set up.
That said of course a lighter rear bar may rob more steering.

Do you run spool front diff rear or diff/diff?
Where do you lack steering?
With the rear bar on, I'd say it wanted to turn more, but it was not happening because of grip levels and bumps, so without the bar I gained some steering in a way, hence why I want to put a lighter bar back on (I just have the stock 2.2mm bar).

Diff wise I put one in someone had pre-built, but I think it's got 120k+ in it, felt like I had less steering than when I had a spool in, though was running far less power though the spool setup.

As to where I'm lacking steering...
(I'm doing the whole reliving my last race meet in my head thing as I think about this this...)
Hmm, I'd say I can't find my ideal lines going into corners, the car fights my input at speed to do with entry, it smooths out if I find the apex, then generally I can steer/power quite well out of the corners.

I'd like to be getting on the power a lot earlier, but inability to find those entry lines with the steering, means I'm waiting a long time before I can get back on the power (or that's how it feels).
__________________
QRCCRA
www.qrccra.org.au
www.facebook.com/englandparkraceway
www.myrcm.ch/main?pLa=en&hId[1]=org&dId[O]=4331
Bishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 04:02 PM   #3822
Tech Regular
 
getpip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 369
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
With the rear bar on, I'd say it wanted to turn more, but it was not happening because of grip levels and bumps, so without the bar I gained some steering in a way, hence why I want to put a lighter bar back on (I just have the stock 2.2mm bar).

Diff wise I put one in someone had pre-built, but I think it's got 120k+ in it, felt like I had less steering than when I had a spool in, though was running far less power though the spool setup.

As to where I'm lacking steering...
(I'm doing the whole reliving my last race meet in my head thing as I think about this this...)
Hmm, I'd say I can't find my ideal lines going into corners, the car fights my input at speed to do with entry, it smooths out if I find the apex, then generally I can steer/power quite well out of the corners.

I'd like to be getting on the power a lot earlier, but inability to find those entry lines with the steering, means I'm waiting a long time before I can get back on the power (or that's how it feels).
I would have been less surprised if you had said you were having this issue with the spool.

120k is not heavy in the front and I would expect decent turn in off power, it could be worth a rebuild to be sure.

I used to fiddle a fair bit with my caster clips, maybe you need to go a little steeper.
I also used to run 1mm spacers under the upper hinge pin mounts quite often, maybe worth a try?
__________________
------------------------
Check out my blog: www.pipskiracing.blogspot.com
------------------------
getpip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 06:04 PM   #3823
Tech Master
 
Wynnum_Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,110
Default

i run 100k front 50k rear most of the time Bishop however at the qlds last year i went to 50k front 30k rear and it gave me better turn which is what i was after did make it harder to drive but id rather that then no turn

with the track the way it is 500 shock oil is the thickest id go. 450 is what i ran last qlds.

Gotta make sure u run the middle roll centre in the rear also no washers under the front top arms or even .5mm if you must.

run 2mm under the top rear arms can go to 1mm if the grips up.



- Jason
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=canY93sF15I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmxE9udKKdA

Everyone watch my movies on youtube
Wynnum_Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2011, 12:55 AM   #3824
Tech Elite
 
Bishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 2,223
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wynnum_Racer View Post
i run 100k front 50k rear most of the time Bishop however at the qlds last year i went to 50k front 30k rear and it gave me better turn which is what i was after did make it harder to drive but id rather that then no turn

with the track the way it is 500 shock oil is the thickest id go. 450 is what i ran last qlds.

Gotta make sure u run the middle roll centre in the rear also no washers under the front top arms or even .5mm if you must.

run 2mm under the top rear arms can go to 1mm if the grips up.

- Jason
Thanks for the tips Jason.

It's possible whatever is in the front now is just too thick, I may try a rebuild with fresh 100k now before I try the 50k.

Will try the roll centre adjustments though next time out, right now I'm on the low position for rear arms, with 3mm on the rear arms, and got the stock 1mm shims on the front end, so I'll be keen to find some tweaks there.
__________________
QRCCRA
www.qrccra.org.au
www.facebook.com/englandparkraceway
www.myrcm.ch/main?pLa=en&hId[1]=org&dId[O]=4331
Bishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2011, 01:56 AM   #3825
Tech Master
 
Wynnum_Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,110
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
Thanks for the tips Jason.

It's possible whatever is in the front now is just too thick, I may try a rebuild with fresh 100k now before I try the 50k.

Will try the roll centre adjustments though next time out, right now I'm on the low position for rear arms, with 3mm on the rear arms, and got the stock 1mm shims on the front end, so I'll be keen to find some tweaks there.
taking the 1mm from the front will defiantly give u better turn.

also the bottom hole is okay but i usually only go to that at a bigger event with more grip. The middle is best for clubdays
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=canY93sF15I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmxE9udKKdA

Everyone watch my movies on youtube
Wynnum_Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MUGEN MBX5R/MUGEN MBX5T PROSPEC/TRAXXAS RACE REVO Jason Halvorson R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 01-12-2008 10:32 AM
Mugen 5T Chassis, Mugen 46 Tooth Pinion, Associated Ride Height Gauge bretzkej R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 08-19-2007 06:31 PM
USA's Most Wanted FOR SALE Mugen MBX5R,Losi 8 comp, and Mugen MBX5T Prospec Truggy nobike R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 69 04-28-2007 07:45 PM
Another MTX3 prospec w lots of parts and an optional Mugen X12 w Mugen pipe Scott Fisher R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 11 11-21-2005 05:45 PM
drake xxx nt and mugen mst-1+extras......Looking for a kanai 2 or maybe mugen buggy [email protected] R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 06-30-2003 09:31 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:48 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net