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Old 11-15-2010, 09:16 AM   #3766
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I've heard good things about Powermaster fuel. They also make all of Traxxas fuels. Just wish I could find some in my neck of the woods
You could call Sam at Kamikaze Toys and Hobbies and see what it would cost to ship a gallon to you location. Might be worth the shipping costs just to try it out.
I usually buy my fuel by the case, as it saves quite a bit of money.
Maybe Sam could tell you where to buy it closer to your home
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:16 AM   #3767
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I put a brand new Mugen 4mm chassis on my MTX the other day, just fitted the engine today, and found the clutch bell now won't come off without removing the engine again, Mugen do some strange things.
You need to remove the upper brace, ( the plastic brace above the clutchbell ), before opening the clutchbell.

You could also put 3mm shims between the brace and bulkheads, so you dont have to remove the brace everytime you remove the clutchbell. However, you need to re-arrange the carburator throttle position. ( The linkage will hit the brace if you dont re-arrange the carburator throttle position ).
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:58 AM   #3768
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
You need to remove the upper brace, ( the plastic brace above the clutchbell ), before opening the clutchbell.

You could also put 3mm shims between the brace and bulkheads, so you dont have to remove the brace everytime you remove the clutchbell. However, you need to re-arrange the carburator throttle position. ( The linkage will hit the brace if you dont re-arrange the carburator throttle position ).
I still don't think the clutchbell will clear the 4mm chassis. It's really hard if you have a new clutchbell with fresh bearings.There is no wobble


Pass you soon...
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Last edited by lil-bump; 11-15-2010 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:58 PM   #3769
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
This is normal I dremeled mine also. There nothing wrong with the chassis; you just can't take the clutchbell off with the engine installed because of the added thickness of the chassis. You have a choice of dremeling the chassis or removing the engine everytime you want to remove the clutchbell.


Pass you soon...
ok I understand now the thicker chassis is the problem if I need to remove the bell got it thanks,
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:01 PM   #3770
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I have tried Byrons fuel also. Had no issues with it at all. I found that for me the Powermaster fuel seemed to run a little cooler, cleaner, but the run time was about the same with the Powemaster. Pretty much a toss up on the two.
I have also tried White Lighting, Mugen, and a couple other ones, but seemed to always go back to the Power Master. I have used this fuel for about 4 or 5 years now,and during tear down and rebuild, the piston, and internal parts were very clean. Just a matter of choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I've heard good things about Powermaster fuel. They also make all of Traxxas fuels. Just wish I could find some in my neck of the woods
No power Master here where Im at. So I guess I'll stay with Byron it's not that bad.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:06 PM   #3771
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I still don't the clutchbell will clear the 4mm chassis. It's really hard if you have a new clutchbell with fresh bearings.There is no wobble


Pass you soon...
And I was going to buy the 4mm chassis I think I'll stay stock..
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Old 11-15-2010, 02:48 PM   #3772
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Originally Posted by mugenize1 View Post
And I was going to buy the 4mm chassis I think I'll stay stock..
i use kawahara 4mm special chasis and did not need to dremel the chasis, but i use a
little wire to make sure to seat the 2 inner 5x8 bearings in once the clutch bell has been pulled, otherwise it wont let me take it out
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:20 PM   #3773
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i use kawahara 4mm special chasis and did not need to dremel the chasis, but i use a
little wire to make sure to seat the 2 inner 5x8 bearings in once the clutch bell has been pulled, otherwise it wont let me take it out
I'll stay stock. No need for the 4mm chassis
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Old 11-20-2010, 04:42 PM   #3774
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Default MTX4-R Pulleys

What will be the out come if I change the out side front pulley from 24T to
25T. Please help
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:22 PM   #3775
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a change in the final drive ratio of the front......
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:33 PM   #3776
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Originally Posted by mugenize1 View Post
What will be the out come if I change the out side front pulley from 24T to
25T. Please help
The car will have more power to the front wheels, due to the change in ratio.
Will change the handling of the car somewhat, as the front wheels will be pulling more
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:33 PM   #3777
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Originally Posted by s10dude View Post
a change in the final drive ratio of the front......
Quote:
Originally Posted by brc358 View Post
The car will have more power to the front wheels, due to the change in ratio.
Will change the handling of the car somewhat, as the front wheels will be pulling more
So stock is the way to stay.
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:45 PM   #3778
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Originally Posted by mugenize1 View Post
So stock is the way to stay.

I ran stock pullies in all my MTX4R, MTX4, and the MTX3
Dont waste your money on the aluminum pullies either. They seem to wear the belts out faster due to the sharp edges on the aluminum.
You can basically get the same results if you use a taller tire on the front.
I was running a 2 mm split . I started out with a 61mm on the rear, and a 59mm on the front. This was for a 45min, or 60 min. main
Some of the drivers were using a 1 mm split.
But to try out the difference in pullies, without actually changing the pullies, use set of tires that have already been run in.
Pick out a set where you can use a taller tire in front<either a 1 mm or 2 mm split. Of course with a 2mm split you will see more of a change in the front handling.
I dont know of anyone that runs a new set of tires without truing them first,so you may be able to borrow a set of used tires that already have the 1 to 2 mm split already cut to what you need.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:18 PM   #3779
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Originally Posted by brc358 View Post
I ran stock pullies in all my MTX4R, MTX4, and the MTX3
Dont waste your money on the aluminum pullies either. They seem to wear the belts out faster due to the sharp edges on the aluminum.
You can basically get the same results if you use a taller tire on the front.
I was running a 2 mm split . I started out with a 61mm on the rear, and a 59mm on the front. This was for a 45min, or 60 min. main
Some of the drivers were using a 1 mm split.
But to try out the difference in pullies, without actually changing the pullies, use set of tires that have already been run in.
Pick out a set where you can use a taller tire in front<either a 1 mm or 2 mm split. Of course with a 2mm split you will see more of a change in the front handling.
I dont know of anyone that runs a new set of tires without truing them first,so you may be able to borrow a set of used tires that already have the 1 to 2 mm split already cut to what you need.
Thanks for that I never knew that I will try that split the tires by 1 or 2 mm and about the aluminum pulleys I did not know they cut the belts. quess thats out the question. Thanks,
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:07 AM   #3780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugenize1 View Post
What will be the out come if I change the out side front pulley from 24T to
25T. Please help
Quote:
Originally Posted by brc358 View Post
The car will have more power to the front wheels, due to the change in ratio.
Will change the handling of the car somewhat, as the front wheels will be pulling more
Nope,

When you change to 25T pulley, the car will go under drive even more, ie. the rear wheels are rotating faster than front wheels. This is same effect when you run major split : small diameter front tires with big diameter rear tires. This is more like rear wheel drive type of car. The car turns smaller and (theoritically) get higher top speed at straight lane.

Do you ever feel mtx4 or mtx3 drive strangely after 20 minutes ? It feels horrible to drive, kind of push and pull within the car ? And between 30 minutes to finish, the car fbecome very tiring to drive because driver need to concentrate to drive even more smoothly ( drive slow ) ?

That's the sign of not enough underdrive.
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Last edited by asw7576; 11-21-2010 at 06:19 AM.
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