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Old 03-16-2010, 07:32 PM   #3556
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I tried it either late last year or early this year...
50/50 on good traction and 30/30 on lower traction...
I've never tried 10/10... I'm guessing that the last alternative would be 30/10

The car turns in great with the 50/50 set up and it does not diff out like I thought it would.
Thanks. I'll add this to the KB.
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:37 PM   #3557
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Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
I tried it either late last year or early this year...
50/50 on good traction and 30/30 on lower traction...
I've never tried 10/10... I'm guessing that the last alternative would be 30/10

The car turns in great with the 50/50 set up and it does not diff out like I thought it would.
how is the on power steering compared to the 100/ 50 that you guys were running before?
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:38 AM   #3558
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how is the on power steering compared to the 100/ 50 that you guys were running before?
On power is about the same... the car just rotates better with the 50/50
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:24 PM   #3559
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On power is about the same... the car just rotates better with the 50/50
interesting..
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:54 AM   #3560
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Got to say, I bought a used MTX-4R simply because I got curious (I have been running a G4JS), hopefully I'll get to run it soon, but in the mean time I stripped it down to the nuts for a clean and check...

In many ways it's a curious design, clever but also rough around the edges in parts?, strange things to do with shaft length and pulley fitment, not sure if it's because mine is used, or if it's just a Mugen thing.
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:49 AM   #3561
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Parts fitment/quality were always great in my Mugens(MTX-2, 3 and 4). No problems.
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:57 AM   #3562
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Just got back from testing some new things on the MTX4-R. I Installed the Capricorn Spider Gears in the diff, it saved approx 20 grams per diff. My only problem with using the the Capricorn gear was the fluid fealing a lot lighter with the diff... I had to remove the rear before running my main because I did not shim the rear gears properly and seem to bind on the right....

I ended up running the main with rear diffs fealing heavier in the fluid and caused an on power push.....
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:44 AM   #3563
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Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
Just got back from testing some new things on the MTX4-R. I Installed the Capricorn Spider Gears in the diff, it saved approx 20 grams per diff. My only problem with using the the Capricorn gear was the fluid fealing a lot lighter with the diff... I had to remove the rear before running my main because I did not shim the rear gears properly and seem to bind on the right....

I ended up running the main with rear diffs fealing heavier in the fluid and caused an on power push.....
Francis,
Did you make any modifications to the case in order to fit the gears? If not, how many shims did you place between the gears and the case wall to make it fit.
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:23 PM   #3564
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Francis,
Did you make any modifications to the case in order to fit the gears? If not, how many shims did you place between the gears and the case wall to make it fit.
Using the Mugen shim kit...
I used 3 shims behind the larger gears and 5 shims behind the smaller the gears..

I didn't modify the case at all..

I need to double check the rear diff, I'm not sure if I shimed it evenly since I was tired when I was building it.
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Old 03-24-2010, 01:24 PM   #3565
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Got to say, I bought a used MTX-4R simply because I got curious (I have been running a G4JS), hopefully I'll get to run it soon, but in the mean time I stripped it down to the nuts for a clean and check...

In many ways it's a curious design, clever but also rough around the edges in parts?, strange things to do with shaft length and pulley fitment, not sure if it's because mine is used, or if it's just a Mugen thing.
the cars have in the past came with building notes, and things to do while building the kit. being that it was used, all that goes out the window, and it was how the car was built in the first place.

if it is put together right, and all notes and directions are read, keeping an eye on part numbers that are similar and pics. its a great car. i have built 3 mugens.
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Old 03-24-2010, 02:14 PM   #3566
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Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
Using the Mugen shim kit...
I used 3 shims behind the larger gears and 5 shims behind the smaller the gears..

I didn't modify the case at all..

I need to double check the rear diff, I'm not sure if I shimed it evenly since I was tired when I was building it.
I was thinking of doing the same thing but not sure it would work . With the small gears you will have to use thicker diff fluid to get the same diff action. I'm glad you tried it and posted your results. I'm still testing running just 1 set of spyder gears. but I have to go thru a new learning curve when dealing with heavier diff fluids. Mike S said he tried the The 1 set of spyder gears and said it was not as consistant as the 4 gear setup. Also Mugen does not offer a wide range of thick diff fluids.
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:07 PM   #3567
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Francis,
Did you make any modifications to the case in order to fit the gears? If not, how many shims did you place between the gears and the case wall to make it fit.
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:29 PM   #3568
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I was thinking of doing the same thing but not sure it would work . With the small gears you will have to use thicker diff fluid to get the same diff action. I'm glad you tried it and posted your results. I'm still testing running just 1 set of spyder gears. but I have to go thru a new learning curve when dealing with heavier diff fluids. Mike S said he tried the The 1 set of spyder gears and said it was not as consistant as the 4 gear setup. Also Mugen does not offer a wide range of thick diff fluids.

I'm using all 6 gears in the mugen diff. I just tried using the Capricorn Composite Gears to save weight... I didn't like the results so far, The diff action got way too light even when using 100k or 200k in the front. It actually felt like 30k when using the standard mugen gears inside. I need to play around with it a little more.

I'm just trying to get my car close to the legal weight limit... I'd prefer loosing most of the weight within the drive train....
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:53 PM   #3569
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Try 300000 kyosho oil......i had that same prob with my v10 front diff 100000 felt like 30000 up frnt, 300000 feels like 80000 of 100000......they also hav 500000!
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:55 PM   #3570
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Try 300000 kyosho oil......i had that same prob with my v10 front diff 100000 felt like 30000 up frnt, 300000 feels like 80000 of 100000......they also hav 500000!
Thanks, I will try it. I just have to clean out the diffs and make sure everything is shimed correctly again.
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