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Old 08-19-2009, 11:37 AM   #3256
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It would still be nice to see how stefan implemented it. From the pics of the 966, I am beginning to think of ideas of how to make it on a MTX-4R car, but I cannot do anything concrete until the weekend.
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:56 PM   #3257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
It would still be nice to see how stefan implemented it. From the pics of the 966, I am beginning to think of ideas of how to make it on a MTX-4R car, but I cannot do anything concrete until the weekend.
Ok guys, although I am on my way out the door to go on vacation, here are a few pics, which are unfortunately not that brilliant, sorry.






The holes in the radio plate are elongated side to side by about 3 mm on each side. To allo the radio plate to move sideways, you need to put a distance tube (see the brass piece inside the strut) that is a fraction longer than the radio plate is thick. This way you can crank down on the strut without locking the radio plate.

Now when everything works, the radio plate will be able to move side to side, but not back and forth.

Move your left side of the roll bar further out on the radio plate, so the strut has room to move.
The same thing is done on the other side, but because of the carb link it's hard to see.

Also, you have to counter sink the holes for you rear tank screws to get them level with the radio plate.

Hope this helps.

I am off to vacation now with a short stop in Lostallo on Saturday

Oh, btw, if you look closely, you can see the adjustment screw in my front one way. With this screw I can adjust my one way gradually from fully open to fully locked and anywhere in between.
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:05 PM   #3258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan View Post
Ok guys, although I am on my way out the door to go on vacation, here are a few pics, which are unfortunately not that brilliant, sorry.






The holes in the radio plate are elongated side to side by about 3 mm on each side. To allo the radio plate to move sideways, you need to put a distance tube (see the brass piece inside the strut) that is a fraction longer than the radio plate is thick. This way you can crank down on the strut without locking the radio plate.

Now when everything works, the radio plate will be able to move side to side, but not back and forth.

Move your left side of the roll bar further out on the radio plate, so the strut has room to move.
The same thing is done on the other side, but because of the carb link it's hard to see.

Also, you have to counter sink the holes for you rear tank screws to get them level with the radio plate.

Hope this helps.

I am off to vacation now with a short stop in Lostallo on Saturday

Oh, btw, if you look closely, you can see the adjustment screw in my front one way. With this screw I can adjust my one way gradually from fully open to fully locked and anywhere in between.
Thanks man, that explanation and the description is worth a million!
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:07 PM   #3259
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Very clever design Stefan.
What about on track practical results ?
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:30 PM   #3260
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hey Riketsu as soon as you do the job call me!!! if any track test run call me!!!
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:00 PM   #3261
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hey Riketsu as soon as you do the job call me!!! if any track test run call me!!!
I will... Just need to think where to get some cheap Carbon fiber.
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:04 PM   #3262
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I will... Just need to think where to get some cheap Carbon fiber.
1. call a speed shop like Jimmy Bou
2. call a machine shop
3. call choto!
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:08 PM   #3263
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ohh!
4. I think I have a used radio tray, need to look on my used stuff in a deepplace of my r/c yunkyard jejeje...
5. 3racing battery tray very cheap Ithink you need 2 of them to develop the project!!!
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:08 PM   #3264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Thanks man, that explanation and the description is worth a million!


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Old 08-19-2009, 09:26 PM   #3265
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have a question about my mtx4, i raced it sunday and at random times it acted like it would jump out of gear and rev up and not go. i would pull the trigger once or twice then all of a sudden off i'd go. working perfect. i guess my question is does this sound like my 2 speed shoes are getting worn? i've always raced electric but started racing nitro as of last year. but this year its really caught on at our local track. in the 3rd qualifier the front belt broke so i packed it away for the rest of the event.
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:00 PM   #3266
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Originally Posted by touringdriver View Post
have a question about my mtx4, i raced it sunday and at random times it acted like it would jump out of gear and rev up and not go. i would pull the trigger once or twice then all of a sudden off i'd go. working perfect. i guess my question is does this sound like my 2 speed shoes are getting worn? i've always raced electric but started racing nitro as of last year. but this year its really caught on at our local track. in the 3rd qualifier the front belt broke so i packed it away for the rest of the event.
Sounds like you have a one-way bearing failing on you. This is the first gear adapter on your spurs
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:15 AM   #3267
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Serpent sells a lube specifically for one-way bearings. Your 1st gear spur gear bearing may just need some lube. I've used after-run oil in the past because I was told any oil should be better than no oil. Now that I have the Serpent lube, I lube it after every race day and I'm still using the original bearing.
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:20 AM   #3268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by touringdriver View Post
have a question about my mtx4, i raced it sunday and at random times it acted like it would jump out of gear and rev up and not go. i would pull the trigger once or twice then all of a sudden off i'd go. working perfect. i guess my question is does this sound like my 2 speed shoes are getting worn? i've always raced electric but started racing nitro as of last year. but this year its really caught on at our local track. in the 3rd qualifier the front belt broke so i packed it away for the rest of the event.
As the other guys have suggested, it is probably your 1st gear one-way bearing.... However I want to ask if you are running the stock steel 2sp shaft, or an aftermarket one made of titanium or aluminum? If is isn't steel, the shaft may wear in the spot that the 1st gear one-way rides and that will also cause the problem you describe.
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:27 AM   #3269
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The xray oneway bearing oil is very good, too.

Very thin.
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:47 AM   #3270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra zz View Post
Very clever design Stefan.
What about on track practical results ?
The car has noticeably more steering and more over all grip. Look at the springs I am running for a smooth track....

No push anymore
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