1LikesMugen MTX-4R
08-19-2009, 12:56 PM
#3257
The holes in the radio plate are elongated side to side by about 3 mm on each side. To allo the radio plate to move sideways, you need to put a distance tube (see the brass piece inside the strut) that is a fraction longer than the radio plate is thick. This way you can crank down on the strut without locking the radio plate.
Now when everything works, the radio plate will be able to move side to side, but not back and forth.
Move your left side of the roll bar further out on the radio plate, so the strut has room to move.
The same thing is done on the other side, but because of the carb link it's hard to see.
Also, you have to counter sink the holes for you rear tank screws to get them level with the radio plate.
Hope this helps.
I am off to vacation now with a short stop in Lostallo on Saturday
Oh, btw, if you look closely, you can see the adjustment screw in my front one way. With this screw I can adjust my one way gradually from fully open to fully locked and anywhere in between.
08-19-2009, 04:05 PM
#3258
Ok guys, although I am on my way out the door to go on vacation, here are a few pics, which are unfortunately not that brilliant, sorry.
The holes in the radio plate are elongated side to side by about 3 mm on each side. To allo the radio plate to move sideways, you need to put a distance tube (see the brass piece inside the strut) that is a fraction longer than the radio plate is thick. This way you can crank down on the strut without locking the radio plate.
Now when everything works, the radio plate will be able to move side to side, but not back and forth.
Move your left side of the roll bar further out on the radio plate, so the strut has room to move.
The same thing is done on the other side, but because of the carb link it's hard to see.
Also, you have to counter sink the holes for you rear tank screws to get them level with the radio plate.
Hope this helps.
I am off to vacation now with a short stop in Lostallo on Saturday
Oh, btw, if you look closely, you can see the adjustment screw in my front one way. With this screw I can adjust my one way gradually from fully open to fully locked and anywhere in between.
The holes in the radio plate are elongated side to side by about 3 mm on each side. To allo the radio plate to move sideways, you need to put a distance tube (see the brass piece inside the strut) that is a fraction longer than the radio plate is thick. This way you can crank down on the strut without locking the radio plate.
Now when everything works, the radio plate will be able to move side to side, but not back and forth.
Move your left side of the roll bar further out on the radio plate, so the strut has room to move.
The same thing is done on the other side, but because of the carb link it's hard to see.
Also, you have to counter sink the holes for you rear tank screws to get them level with the radio plate.
Hope this helps.
I am off to vacation now with a short stop in Lostallo on Saturday
Oh, btw, if you look closely, you can see the adjustment screw in my front one way. With this screw I can adjust my one way gradually from fully open to fully locked and anywhere in between.
08-19-2009, 05:07 PM
#3259
Tech Apprentice
Very clever design Stefan.
What about on track practical results ?
What about on track practical results ?
08-19-2009, 06:30 PM
#3260
hey Riketsu as soon as you do the job call me!!! if any track test run call me!!!
08-19-2009, 07:04 PM
#3262
08-19-2009, 07:08 PM
#3263
ohh!
4. I think I have a used radio tray, need to look on my used stuff in a deepplace of my r/c yunkyard jejeje...
5. 3racing battery tray very cheap Ithink you need 2 of them to develop the project!!!
4. I think I have a used radio tray, need to look on my used stuff in a deepplace of my r/c yunkyard jejeje...
5. 3racing battery tray very cheap Ithink you need 2 of them to develop the project!!!
08-19-2009, 08:26 PM
#3265
have a question about my mtx4, i raced it sunday and at random times it acted like it would jump out of gear and rev up and not go. i would pull the trigger once or twice then all of a sudden off i'd go. working perfect. i guess my question is does this sound like my 2 speed shoes are getting worn? i've always raced electric but started racing nitro as of last year. but this year its really caught on at our local track. in the 3rd qualifier the front belt broke so i packed it away for the rest of the event.
08-19-2009, 09:00 PM
#3266
have a question about my mtx4, i raced it sunday and at random times it acted like it would jump out of gear and rev up and not go. i would pull the trigger once or twice then all of a sudden off i'd go. working perfect. i guess my question is does this sound like my 2 speed shoes are getting worn? i've always raced electric but started racing nitro as of last year. but this year its really caught on at our local track. in the 3rd qualifier the front belt broke so i packed it away for the rest of the event.
08-19-2009, 11:15 PM
#3267
Serpent sells a lube specifically for one-way bearings. Your 1st gear spur gear bearing may just need some lube. I've used after-run oil in the past because I was told any oil should be better than no oil. Now that I have the Serpent lube, I lube it after every race day and I'm still using the original bearing.
08-19-2009, 11:20 PM
#3268
have a question about my mtx4, i raced it sunday and at random times it acted like it would jump out of gear and rev up and not go. i would pull the trigger once or twice then all of a sudden off i'd go. working perfect. i guess my question is does this sound like my 2 speed shoes are getting worn? i've always raced electric but started racing nitro as of last year. but this year its really caught on at our local track. in the 3rd qualifier the front belt broke so i packed it away for the rest of the event.
08-20-2009, 12:47 AM
#3270