Mugen MTX-4R
#301
Suspended
het guys mugen sucks buy a real car a kyosho, its a real car and i cant even drive it. my nane is g gallogay.
#303
I've always wrapped the reciver in electrical insulation tape and never had a problem. The radio is not that close to the tank and IMHO fuel spillage does not get that far as it drains down by the servo saver etc.
#304
on the 1/12 car you may want to look at the gen x,if your new to 1/12 this car may be a bit easier to drive for you and theres no t plat to break all the time.
#305
this is how i do my rx if any care
never had a problem (yet)
never had a problem (yet)
#307
parking lot try 35 or 37 tires
400 or 450 oil
diffs front and rear 30000 rear 50000 front
play with the roll center and just see what works for you
make small changes 1 at a time and see what happens youll get it.
run a clutch that engages early
gearing
17/23
60/54
#309
That's what I do in MTX4 and MRX4. I let go the cover to save some weight.
( I had a wet receiver problem with that kind of styling during Femca 2007. My mechanic accidentally poured fuel into receiver ( eventough I already wrap it with heat shrink wrap ), and my servos become dead. I think using ballon wrap + heat shrink wrap is the best combo ).
( I had a wet receiver problem with that kind of styling during Femca 2007. My mechanic accidentally poured fuel into receiver ( eventough I already wrap it with heat shrink wrap ), and my servos become dead. I think using ballon wrap + heat shrink wrap is the best combo ).
#310
#311
I'm using very light rear diff with front one way. This is what I feel :
With very light diff, the corner exit is smooth ( controlable ) with smooth corner entry. <--- I'm here
With 30K oil diff, the corner exit is powerful with understeering tendency at corner entry.
#312
with the power that we run today light oil in the rear diff tends to fly out of them.
and its all new
i dont like redoing my diffs every week
and its all new
i dont like redoing my diffs every week
#313
I haven't open it since 2004. It doesn't leak u know.
It feels very light for the diff action.
I have other gear diffs filled with 30K and 10K, but interestingly I feel more comfortable driving the car with gear diff filled with Tamiya Ceramic grease. My friend suggested me to go back with 30K gear diff setup...... I can hardly push my lap times regardless what oil inside. So, I keep using the tamiya for the time being. Less maintenance
#315
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
Honestly, I filled my gear diff with hefty amount of Tamiya Ceramic Grease
I haven't open it since 2004. It doesn't leak u know.
It feels very light for the diff action.
I have other gear diffs filled with 30K and 10K, but interestingly I feel more comfortable driving the car with gear diff filled with Tamiya Ceramic grease. My friend suggested me to go back with 30K gear diff setup...... I can hardly push my lap times regardless what oil inside. So, I keep using the tamiya for the time being. Less maintenance
I haven't open it since 2004. It doesn't leak u know.
It feels very light for the diff action.
I have other gear diffs filled with 30K and 10K, but interestingly I feel more comfortable driving the car with gear diff filled with Tamiya Ceramic grease. My friend suggested me to go back with 30K gear diff setup...... I can hardly push my lap times regardless what oil inside. So, I keep using the tamiya for the time being. Less maintenance
this is because you have become so acustomed to a forgiving setup that you now don't know how to set the car up to a normal setting. Running this sort of grease you describe above is a big no no as it limits your diff setup options to just one grease.
if you go to 10kwt of course you will need to adjust the front and rear accordingly. You can't tell us though that the car is only drivable with tamiya grease in the diff though that's ridiculous.
just set the car up with 5000wt if you need a very free diff. there cannot be a track anywhere in the world unless it's in iceland, that requires such a loose rear diff