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Old 07-01-2009, 04:07 PM   #3121
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After 2 years out of IC Tourer racing i finally got my car in TQ in group B and a personal best time of 20.7 which i had never got before always running 21.3 and above.

The car has a few settings to adjust, had issues with too much over steer and then sometimes not enough turn in - but i think nervs got better of me.

In the 20min B Final i held 1st Position in the end and did 51 laps with a lap ahead of the field.

I hope you enjoy the Video, I am the Car white White Body Shell "PINK WING"

Cheers
Frankie
Hey Frank, looks like Toppy was falling asleep half way thru the final ! LOL!

We've been "experimenting" with an MTX4R while we wait for the TM RS09 with some very interesting results.....

http://mrccr.com/images/Results/28-J...A%20Final.html

Looking at your car , try this..

Take the 1mm spacer out of the front roll centre brackets

Light blue springs all round - get some 2 hole pistons and stick them in the front shocks, 550wt oil all round

2.1mm rear sway bar, 30,000 rear diff - locked front axle

Set the rear roll centre ( hinge pin height) to the "middle" position, inner camber link to the lowest hole and 2mm spacer under the outer ball.

Also, you might want to try the MTX4 "0" degree front hubs

regards

Luis
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:43 AM   #3122
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Sp racer - cheers for the input here is the setup i ran for my very first time with the MTX4R - it was a handlful to drive but i did find it easier than my TMG4S.....

Also had plenty of steering but too much oversteer
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MugenMTX4R.pdf (451.4 KB, 187 views)
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:40 AM   #3123
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
Sp racer - cheers for the input here is the setup i ran for my very first time with the MTX4R - it was a handlful to drive but i did find it easier than my TMG4S.....

Also had plenty of steering but too much oversteer
Glad to hear you had a good first race with the car!
From your description of the cars behavior and the set up sheet
here are my comments:
1. The rear toe needs to be equal for the left and right sides of the
rear suspension, or on-power stability will be affected.
2. Bump stops need to be equal also.
3. With the 25 tooth side pulley, the tire diameter split between
front and rear needs to be 2mm. I have only run the 24 tooth side pulley
so maybe another racer can comment on how far you can deviate from the 2mm split and maintain a reasonable amount of overdrive.
4. The loose front shock would cause handling problems, also check the
tightness of the every drive pulley, especially the side pulley.
Because is one of these is loose, you will end up with a rear wheel drive
only, which will result in lots of oversteer.
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:46 AM   #3124
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If I were u .... :


Front Section :

Track Width : 198mm
Ride Height : 6mm
Rebound Stop ( Downstop ) : 1 LEFT, 1 RIGHT
Camber : 2.5 deg LEFT, 2 deg RIGHT
Toe Out : 1 deg LEFT, 1 deg RIGHT
Upper Arm Spacer ( Caster ) : 2mm
Upper Arm Position ( Roll Center ) : 1mm shim
Shock oil : 450 mugen


Rear Section :

Track Width : 200mm **
Ride Height : 7 ~ 8 mm
Rebound Stop ( Downstop ) : 4 LEFT, 4 RIGHT
Camber : 4 deg LEFT, 3 deg RIGHT **
Toe In : 3deg LEFT, 3 deg RIGHT **
Lower Arm Position ( Roll Center ) : Lowest
Upright Spacer : 2mm
Shock Oil : 450 mugen **


** your previous setup, I think they lack of those number.... that's why your car was easy to oversteer.
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Last edited by asw7576; 07-02-2009 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:27 PM   #3125
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cheeers guys on the tips always welcomed
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:20 AM   #3126
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Have to agree with curvetracer and ASW.
Droop and toe MUST be equal side to side
Camber can vary depending on wear.

Reguarding the 24 vs 25 tooth pulley, the 25 will give a 1-1 drive and doesnt need a split but can start with .5 -1mm if needed for finals. ( I think it is used more when using rubber tyres, although i find it works well for me at our home track)

24 tooth pulley needs minimum 2-2.5mm split for qualifiers and up to 3mm for mains.

You will find it will understeer a little early in the race, but will be great to drove once rear tyres wear down a little and be good till end of final.

When you try these changes we all have suggested, if it still over steers a lot, try fitting a 1mm spacer in the front arms to take a little steering away and settle the car down a bit.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:53 AM   #3127
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
cheeers guys on the tips always welcomed
You might also want to adjust your 2 speed shoe, it seems like you are over shooting at the corner after the u-turn at end of the straight.

Nice track btw..
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Old 07-10-2009, 08:19 PM   #3128
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My MTX4 is 119 grams over the minimum weight, more than 4 ounces! I found out that the winner of the last club race i was at, uses a lipo reciever pack, and claims this contributes to the performace of his car (a bullet) and it reduces rear tire wear! So from what i can find, a 800 mah lipo and a voltage regualtor will weigh in at about 54 grams , 74 grams less than the NiMH pack i use now. So that would be a start, still leaving about 45 grams to shed. How much weight do the Ti screws save? What else can be done to get the car down to the 1725 gram minimum?
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:22 PM   #3129
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My MTX4 is 119 grams over the minimum weight, more than 4 ounces! I found out that the winner of the last club race i was at, uses a lipo reciever pack, and claims this contributes to the performace of his car (a bullet) and it reduces rear tire wear! So from what i can find, a 800 mah lipo and a voltage regualtor will weigh in at about 54 grams , 74 grams less than the NiMH pack i use now. So that would be a start, still leaving about 45 grams to shed. How much weight do the Ti screws save? What else can be done to get the car down to the 1725 gram minimum?
Hey mate,

Lipo will be the best money you ever spent. I am running a 1100 but I don't think it would be a great deal different to the 800 you're running.

Do you run a front diff? They can add quite a bit of weight to the car compared to the solid axle. The YBSLOW front solid axles are lighter than the mugen solid axle again.

Probably common sense but keep your car clean, thin as possible paint on the shell, and shorten your wires up if you can.

Do you run a personal transponder?

The personal's are a bit lighter than club transponders.

Hope this helps

Ash
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:38 AM   #3130
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...v-battery.html

check it, you'll 60g right at the start and no need for regulator
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Old 07-11-2009, 10:41 AM   #3131
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Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...v-battery.html

check it, you'll 60g right at the start and no need for regulator
Yes but where are they?? I will take 2 if they can be found.
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Old 07-11-2009, 11:34 AM   #3132
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Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...v-battery.html

check it, you'll 60g right at the start and no need for regulator
will one of the battery fit my mtx3
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Old 07-11-2009, 02:07 PM   #3133
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will one of the battery fit my mtx3
nop, but you now can find AAA up to 1100mah, enough for an hour even with digital servos
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Old 07-11-2009, 05:17 PM   #3134
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Default Side belt coming off

I know this question has probably been answered before, so just be patient guys.

I have recently been experienceing a problem of the side belt failing. First the belt failed, but I will chalk the first one up to just a worn belt. The same day after replacing the belt with a new one, the belt flipped over top of the tensioner. My first question is why.


Second, should I use the urethane belt instead of the rubber one.

The last question if there is an answer may solve all my problems. I have noticed that the belt appears to be too loose, even with the tensioner adjusted to give max tension. But, when the belt is adjusted like this the belt is so close to contacting itself, I find it hard to believe it does not jamb into itself. I am using 24 tooth front pulley and a 18 tooth rear pulley.

Whatcha think, anybody have any suggestions?
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Last edited by spurcheck; 07-11-2009 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 07-11-2009, 05:34 PM   #3135
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I know this question has probably been answered before, so just be patient guys.

I have recently been experienceing a problem of the side belt failing. First the belt failed, but I will chalk the first one up to just a worn belt. The same day after replacing the belt with a new one, the belt flipped over top of the tensioner. My first question is why.


Second, should I use the urethane belt instead of the rubber one.

The last question if there is an answer may solve all my problems. I have noticed that the belt appears to be too loose, even with the tensioner adjusted to give max tension. But, when the belt is adjusted like this the belt is so close to contacting itself, I find it hard to believe it does not jamb into itself. I am using 24 tooth front pulley and a 18 tooth rear pulley.

Whatcha think, anybody have any suggestions?
Check your chassis is not bent or twisted
And make sure your pulleys aren't worn
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