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Old 05-30-2009, 04:35 PM   #3001
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Hey Guys,

Well i been working away hard on the New kit MTX4R, so far its been the best build so far not just coz its Mugen but i think the quality on how everything went i was amazed - previouse car was Team Magic G4S, enjoyed the car, just a few differance between the both in-regards to the shocks, found Mugen shocks TOP QUALITY for sure!

Well the car is not far way from intial start and test, added a Simple Setup that came with the car kit - just waiting on transponder, some steel pionions, body Altis 2.3, tyres and a few hopups.

Once they arrive next week, the running in on the NEW OS TZ.12 P3 and then some seriously needed practice at our club in South Australia Littlehampton: http://www.rrcsa.org.au/rrcsanew/ also check out my blog that i have been doing of the build up of the MTX4r: http://mtx4r.blogspot.com/

As you prob would know i do web design so yeah i do get carried away with presentation and just enjoy sharing info, pics with you all.

Regards
Frankie
Great pictures again mate, very nice!

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silicone aquarium sealer. rub a small amount on each side of the gasket
Cool, thanks for the tip, I will try that next time I do a rebuild...

Cheers
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Old 05-30-2009, 06:18 PM   #3002
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Looks good mate I thought you bought the serpent though? either way i bet your glad you made the switch
Yeah i did place an order, but thought it was best to run a mugen at my club for the parts support and it is the car that suits our track.

happy with the purchase have always wanted a mugen for some reason after having a team magic - the mugen just seems to work out of the box.
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Old 05-31-2009, 04:30 AM   #3003
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Hey Guys,

Ran into a problem with my setup of clutch etc etc.... now for some dumb arse reason more likely me but i cant get any end float on the clutch to provide a good clutch setup.

Basically i am stumped, as i have added way over too many washers / shims etc and then when i tighten the bolt that goes into the crack it all goes tight and locks up the clutch...

I am running a OS TZ .12 - is the bolt that came with the mugen kit differ from engines to engines? do i need a differant collect for the flywheel or use the one in the kit?

Done clutches before but little bit stumped - anytips on the clutch setup, keep in mind i did use the manual to setup first but seems it doesnt like me!
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:21 AM   #3004
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
Hey Guys,

Ran into a problem with my setup of clutch etc etc.... now for some dumb arse reason more likely me but i cant get any end float on the clutch to provide a good clutch setup.

Basically i am stumped, as i have added way over too many washers / shims etc and then when i tighten the bolt that goes into the crack it all goes tight and locks up the clutch...

I am running a OS TZ .12 - is the bolt that came with the mugen kit differ from engines to engines? do i need a differant collect for the flywheel or use the one in the kit?

Done clutches before but little bit stumped - anytips on the clutch setup, keep in mind i did use the manual to setup first but seems it doesnt like me!
Confused if you added too many shims then just remove some. Pictures are worth a 1000 words.
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:32 AM   #3005
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Confused if you added too many shims then just remove some. Pictures are worth a 1000 words.
I know pics would make more sense in what i would luv to explain, but from what the manual instruction show with 2 bearings on the inside of the bell, then bearing on top of bell with thrust bearing then cap and then bolt it all a locks up still.

Naturally the first part is to make sure the bell moves freely by spinning it with a finger flick..... ill try to get some pics of what is going on will draw something up!
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:57 AM   #3006
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what clutch spring is the best hard very or super hard?
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:10 AM   #3007
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I know pics would make more sense in what i would luv to explain, but from what the manual instruction show with 2 bearings on the inside of the bell, then bearing on top of bell with thrust bearing then cap and then bolt it all a locks up still.


Naturally the first part is to make sure the bell moves freely by spinning it with a finger flick..... ill try to get some pics of what is going on will draw something up!
How far is the flywheel the crankcase. You want to keep this distance to a minimum. If you do the above; that ensure you plenty of room left for the clutch assembly
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:12 AM   #3008
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pics of clutch assembly
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4R-img_8587.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8588.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8589.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8593.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8594.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2009, 09:13 AM   #3009
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more pics still coming....
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4R-img_8595.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8597.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8598.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8599.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8600.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2009, 09:15 AM   #3010
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there thats all the pics i have, but my big problem is the last stage when i tighten the bolt it all locks up!
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Mugen MTX-4R-img_8602.jpg   Mugen MTX-4R-img_8603.jpg  
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:19 AM   #3011
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
I know pics would make more sense in what i would luv to explain, but from what the manual instruction show with 2 bearings on the inside of the bell, then bearing on top of bell with thrust bearing then cap and then bolt it all a locks up still.

Naturally the first part is to make sure the bell moves freely by spinning it with a finger flick..... ill try to get some pics of what is going on will draw something up!
Your problem maybe :

the collet you are using now (probably) IS too long, thus the crankshaft tip area become shorter.

you should use shorter collet ( use the collet from the box or from novarossi ).

If you keep pressing, the thrust bearing will be damage.

For testing only : Consider to add shims at the end of crankshaft tip to lengthen the tip area. If your clutchbell suddenly can spin freely now , then it is the collet which is too long.
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:28 AM   #3012
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Your problem maybe :

the collet you are using now (probably) IS too long, thus the crankshaft tip area become shorter.

you should use shorter collet ( use the collet from the box or from novarossi ).

If you keep pressing, the thrust bearing will be damage.

For testing only : Consider to add shims at the end of crankshaft tip to lengthen the tip area. If your clutchbell suddenly can spin freely now , then it is the collet which is too long.


cheers mate - ok now i need to find another collet as i only got one with the mugen kit and nothing with the OS engine.... uhhmmmm weird.... i think my mate has one ill ask him!

cheers
Frankie
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:38 AM   #3013
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Can u rebuild the flywheel again ? This time use some oil to lubricate the flywheel, collet and locknut where they all meet. Who knows this time the collet will be seated more deeply inside the flywheel, so in effect, you'll get longer tip.

Btw, ( as for testing only ) make sure there are no shims in between front engine bearing and the back of flywheel. I know in G4S car, team magic sell the shims to put behind the G4S flywheel.
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:15 AM   #3014
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there thats all the pics i have, but my big problem is the last stage when i tighten the bolt it all locks up!
Well I see you've found your problem. The flywheel is mounted too far from the crankcase. Obviously you need to try a different collet. Find a collet that will keep the flywheeel no-more than 1mm away from the crankcase.
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Old 05-31-2009, 02:00 PM   #3015
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there thats all the pics i have, but my big problem is the last stage when i tighten the bolt it all locks up!
the collect from the kit works perfectly
if you know how to assembly properly the clutch should give you no problems
check the nt1 setup book to adjust the clutch
in the worst case, shims of 3x4.9 should do the trick

good luck
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