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Old 04-26-2009, 08:40 PM   #2896
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Originally Posted by touringdriver View Post
guys can any of you point me towards a good setup for my mtx4. i purchased it and tried to race it today with the previous owners setup( no way) so i parked it. we race on a 120 x 60 asphalt parking lot with slow tighter turns. . we spray it with grape soda. any help would be greatful. thanks

Looks back a few posts. I posted a setup that would be a good start for you I think. Try 40's or 37's for tires though and be smooth...and then fast.

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Old 04-26-2009, 09:26 PM   #2897
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thank you, i must of missed seeing it.
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Old 04-27-2009, 03:49 PM   #2898
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I have a question about set up , what is the effect on positive and neg camber on the frt and rear ,
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:15 PM   #2899
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Hi, I dont know, but I cant see this web



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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
get the 4mm chassis
and if you insist on running a spool your cvd's will where more and your belts too.
not to many guy's up here run spools anymore and low and behold the lap times are getting faster.
and ya a 1way has faster corner speed but you can traction roll
what im trying to say is try different things and see what happens
but a 4mm chassis is the best thing to run. as for striped gears check this out.
http://www.nitrokb.com/mtx4/
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Old 04-27-2009, 05:44 PM   #2900
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I have a question about set up , what is happenswhen you put positive and neg camber on the frt and rear. what does neg camber do and what does positive camber do
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Old 04-27-2009, 05:53 PM   #2901
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have a read of the rc book

http://www.actionrc.com.au/rc_handbook/Section_1.htm

"6.1 Camber

Camber is probably the easiest component of suspension geometry to adjust - if your car is fitted with turnbuckles or some kind of threaded rod for an upper suspension link. You can measure camber using two rulers and basic mathematics Ė but why bother when RPM manufacture a great, and simple to use, camber gauge. Ask at you local hobby store for info. Hereís some general rules of thumb.

On the front of your car - adding negative camber will, in general, slightly increase steering up to a certain point - and then decrease it after that. That point is around 2 degrees. I would suggest that you start with about 1 degrees of negative camber (whatever the car) and NEVER adjust it more than 1 degree either way. Running more negative camber will simply take away too much steering and add unpredictability to your carís handling, whilst running positive camber of any kind is generally not a great idea. Positive camber can induce unstable handling - and a particular loss of traction for the outside tyre in any corner (and the outside tyre is the one that does about 80% of the work).

On the rear things get a little more complicated. We need to consider both driving traction, and cornering traction. Driving traction is what gets us going in a straight line - the more you have, the faster you can accelerate. Cornering traction is what helps the car to track around corners - without the back of the car spinning out. In general (youíll notice those words a lot) the most driving traction comes with the tyres at 0 degrees camber - neither positive or negative. This is because the tyre is flat to the track with the most possible amount of rubber touching for more grip. Unfortunately, cornering traction can be enhanced by adding a little negative camber - just like the front of the car. Interestingly enough, most cars will run fairly consistently with around 1 degrees of negative camber on the rear. Again - as per the front, I would suggest you adjust this by only 1 degree either way. Again, NEVER run positive camber - itíll lead to unpredictable driving "
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Old 04-27-2009, 06:07 PM   #2902
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Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb View Post
have a read of the rc book

http://www.actionrc.com.au/rc_handbook/Section_1.htm

"6.1 Camber

Camber is probably the easiest component of suspension geometry to adjust - if your car is fitted with turnbuckles or some kind of threaded rod for an upper suspension link. You can measure camber using two rulers and basic mathematics Ė but why bother when RPM manufacture a great, and simple to use, camber gauge. Ask at you local hobby store for info. Hereís some general rules of thumb.

On the front of your car - adding negative camber will, in general, slightly increase steering up to a certain point - and then decrease it after that. That point is around 2 degrees. I would suggest that you start with about 1 degrees of negative camber (whatever the car) and NEVER adjust it more than 1 degree either way. Running more negative camber will simply take away too much steering and add unpredictability to your carís handling, whilst running positive camber of any kind is generally not a great idea. Positive camber can induce unstable handling - and a particular loss of traction for the outside tyre in any corner (and the outside tyre is the one that does about 80% of the work).

On the rear things get a little more complicated. We need to consider both driving traction, and cornering traction. Driving traction is what gets us going in a straight line - the more you have, the faster you can accelerate. Cornering traction is what helps the car to track around corners - without the back of the car spinning out. In general (youíll notice those words a lot) the most driving traction comes with the tyres at 0 degrees camber - neither positive or negative. This is because the tyre is flat to the track with the most possible amount of rubber touching for more grip. Unfortunately, cornering traction can be enhanced by adding a little negative camber - just like the front of the car. Interestingly enough, most cars will run fairly consistently with around 1 degrees of negative camber on the rear. Again - as per the front, I would suggest you adjust this by only 1 degree either way. Again, NEVER run positive camber - itíll lead to unpredictable driving "
THANKS ASHLEY
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:38 PM   #2903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb View Post
have a read of the rc book

http://www.actionrc.com.au/rc_handbook/Section_1.htm

"6.1 Camber

Camber is probably the easiest component of suspension geometry to adjust - if your car is fitted with turnbuckles or some kind of threaded rod for an upper suspension link. You can measure camber using two rulers and basic mathematics – but why bother when RPM manufacture a great, and simple to use, camber gauge. Ask at you local hobby store for info. Here’s some general rules of thumb.

On the front of your car - adding negative camber will, in general, slightly increase steering up to a certain point - and then decrease it after that. That point is around 2 degrees. I would suggest that you start with about 1 degrees of negative camber (whatever the car) and NEVER adjust it more than 1 degree either way. Running more negative camber will simply take away too much steering and add unpredictability to your car’s handling, whilst running positive camber of any kind is generally not a great idea. Positive camber can induce unstable handling - and a particular loss of traction for the outside tyre in any corner (and the outside tyre is the one that does about 80% of the work).

On the rear things get a little more complicated. We need to consider both driving traction, and cornering traction. Driving traction is what gets us going in a straight line - the more you have, the faster you can accelerate. Cornering traction is what helps the car to track around corners - without the back of the car spinning out. In general (you’ll notice those words a lot) the most driving traction comes with the tyres at 0 degrees camber - neither positive or negative. This is because the tyre is flat to the track with the most possible amount of rubber touching for more grip. Unfortunately, cornering traction can be enhanced by adding a little negative camber - just like the front of the car. Interestingly enough, most cars will run fairly consistently with around 1 degrees of negative camber on the rear. Again - as per the front, I would suggest you adjust this by only 1 degree either way. Again, NEVER run positive camber - it’ll lead to unpredictable driving "
1 degree chamber you suggested above.... , I think they are applicable for 1/10 electric with rubber tires.

For 1/10 nitro car with foam tires, normally we use 1.5 - 2.5 degree for front tires, and 3.0 to 4.0 degree for rear chamber, depending on the track layout ( lots of right turns or left turns ) and grip level.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:50 PM   #2904
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yes that's correct. Don't use those measurements, but the principal is the same.
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:46 AM   #2905
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i was wondering people thoughts on a solid rear diff. the pros and cons of it thanks
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:51 AM   #2906
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i was wondering people thoughts on a solid rear diff. the pros and cons of it thanks
Unless your into drag racing. I would not use a solid rear end.
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:10 PM   #2907
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Guys, has anyone tried using Kyosho, NT1 or G4 2-speed gearbox shoe onto an MTX4r and does it fit ? Mugen parts from our LHS will arrive next week but I don't want to miss the track during the week-end.
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:20 PM   #2908
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Guys, has anyone tried using Kyosho, NT1 or G4 2-speed gearbox shoe onto an MTX4r and does it fit ? Mugen parts from our LHS will arrive next week but I don't want to miss the track during the week-end.
You need to buy the whole things ( 2sp shoes, 2nd gear housing, 1st gear housing, 1st gear oneway, bearings, spur gears 53t and 59t, 2sp shoe holder ) ...... the closest identical is from NT1. When the bills all add up...... I think you'll scream.
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:41 PM   #2909
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
You need to buy the whole things ( 2sp shoes, 2nd gear housing, 1st gear housing, 1st gear oneway, bearings, spur gears 53t and 59t, 2sp shoe holder ) ...... the closest identical is from NT1. When the bills all add up...... I think you'll scream.
i'l might just skip the week-end with out smellin nitro. thanks asw.
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:16 AM   #2910
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i was wondering people thoughts on a solid rear diff. the pros and cons of it thanks
If the traction is incredible and your gas finger sensitive enough, the nothing better than a solid rear.

Your car will come out of the corners (good clutch is a given) like never before.

I ran it once at the Sugar Bowl in ATL when we had a 3 day race with over 100 racers. The traction was so high, that your shoes almost stuck to the track when you walked
Daniele Ielasi ran it last year at a race which he won here and it looked killer.
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