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Old 02-25-2009, 12:25 PM   #2731
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Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
Titanium Pivot Balls..... I think that alone should get you close to your goal.
This doesnt save as much as you'd think ... i just did it and saved only about 25gms.... it does however come off the right places as unsprung weight.

IMO the best way to save this much weight is by using a lipo rx battery ... (and regulator) however this comes off in the wrong place .. low and in the middle .... I did it anyway!

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Last edited by getpip; 02-25-2009 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 02-25-2009, 12:32 PM   #2732
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This is where I cut weight.....

1) TI pivot balls
2) TI screw set A / ti screws everywhere except under the chasis

Ybslow also makes TI two speed shaft and a Light weight midshaft...


If you guys want to spend the extra $$$ you can get ceramic bearings...
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Old 02-25-2009, 12:37 PM   #2733
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Hey Guys,
I have a really bad and unknown problem going on with my car. Every single race i do i strip both 1st and 2nd gear. I have tried many things to fix this problem but nothing has worked. I have put brand new bearings in my engine. put brand new bearings in my clutch bell, have made sure my engine is square and meshed properly(done this many times), changed my EPA so that it doesn't pull the engine under throttle and brake, checked the bearing in the 2 speed housing, redone my clutch setup and made sure i had little end play, only 0.4mm. I have pretty much done everything i think. I just had a race meeting on sunday and i stripped 5 spur gears. What could be the problem? Maybe the clutch bell is warped??

Thanks,
Tim
Most of what has already been said seems good advice ...

In addition I suggest getting yourself a one peice engine mount... I use the Yeah racing part and have never stripped a gear.
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Old 02-25-2009, 12:44 PM   #2734
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Originally Posted by NiTrO BoOsTeR View Post
hey guys, i need to drop about 80-100 grams on my MTX4-r its about 1850 and i need it to be just a bit more than 1725 and was wondering what is the best way to do it.

Mitchell
The TI screws on the top only saves a nice chunk of weight 15-20g's
Also take a look at your body If you have an elaborate paint scheme with a ton of paint. For example an unpainted and trimmed Protoform 3.1 Mazda weighs in at about 107g's. I once had a painted body that weighed 160 grams.


I normally weigh my car without the body and shoot for a weight of 1625 gr.
then I place the body on and recheck the weight. I try to keep my painted bodies under 120 gm's
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Old 02-25-2009, 03:46 PM   #2735
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I missed your drive, I was watching the 8th scales going around the track....

See you at CP this weekend?
you should, have some crap to deal with
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Old 02-25-2009, 03:59 PM   #2736
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you should, have some crap to deal with

I'll see at CP...
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:16 PM   #2737
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Thanks for all your advice it realy helps.

Mitchell
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Old 02-25-2009, 06:07 PM   #2738
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I have bad luck with ti screws. I usually use tony's screws althou I know they add weight but they dont strip
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:59 PM   #2739
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I have bad luck with ti screws. I usually use tony's screws althou I know they add weight but they dont strip

Strip on plastic?
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Old 02-26-2009, 04:22 AM   #2740
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I have bad luck with ti screws. I usually use tony's screws althou I know they add weight but they dont strip


R U promoting tony's screws ? ..... yeah, they are tough ones.

I use tamiya and mugen seiki titanium screws since long time ago. One trick to prolong the life of titanium screws : never open Ti screws with worn out tool's tip. I usually replace my tool tip's every two years max. ( Hudy 2mm and 1.5mm tip ).
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:43 PM   #2741
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
The TI screws on the top only saves a nice chunk of weight 15-20g's
Also take a look at your body If you have an elaborate paint scheme with a ton of paint. For example an unpainted and trimmed Protoform 3.1 Mazda weighs in at about 107g's. I once had a painted body that weighed 160 grams.


I normally weigh my car without the body and shoot for a weight of 1625 gr.
then I place the body on and recheck the weight. I try to keep my painted bodies under 120 gm's
Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
This is where I cut weight.....

1) TI pivot balls
2) TI screw set A / ti screws everywhere except under the chasis

Ybslow also makes TI two speed shaft and a Light weight midshaft...


If you guys want to spend the extra $$$ you can get ceramic bearings...
Above are good weight savers.. also Lipos if you wanna. With Lipos, you might have to add some weights so as not to disrupt the CG that much.
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:24 AM   #2742
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
So did my drive last sunday make you laugh?
I gave you the part number. Not sure what you're waiting for....
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:28 AM   #2743
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hi guys..
jus wondering if any of u guys out there use a ko propo ex10 helios..
i have a ques for u guys...
everytime i press the full throttle down the straight the car suddenly steers off without touching the steering wheel...
this almost cost me my car when it suddenly turned away at full speed down the straight and crashing into the fence...when i got there my batt pack was disconnected from the throttle servo and when i took it out, the servo wire melted...
what was the cause of the car steering off whenever i pressed full speed and why did the servo burn???
i need help guys
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:51 AM   #2744
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Originally Posted by duku View Post
hi guys..
jus wondering if any of u guys out there use a ko propo ex10 helios..
i have a ques for u guys...
everytime i press the full throttle down the straight the car suddenly steers off without touching the steering wheel...
this almost cost me my car when it suddenly turned away at full speed down the straight and crashing into the fence...when i got there my batt pack was disconnected from the throttle servo and when i took it out, the servo wire melted...
what was the cause of the car steering off whenever i pressed full speed and why did the servo burn???
i need help guys
Sounds like the wire shorted at some point in time. Maybe the wire got cut or rubbed against something.


Pass you soon...
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:21 PM   #2745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duku View Post
hi guys..
jus wondering if any of u guys out there use a ko propo ex10 helios..
i have a ques for u guys...
everytime i press the full throttle down the straight the car suddenly steers off without touching the steering wheel...
this almost cost me my car when it suddenly turned away at full speed down the straight and crashing into the fence...when i got there my batt pack was disconnected from the throttle servo and when i took it out, the servo wire melted...
what was the cause of the car steering off whenever i pressed full speed and why did the servo burn???
i need help guys
1. make sure the gold connectors / pins are cleaned, in order to produce clean signal from receiver to servo all the time. Use electric motor sprays to clean the pins.

2. take care the servo and antenna wire. Occasionally use shock's silicone oil to soften the wire skin.

3. make sure the rx crystal still in good condition. If you aren't sure, I suggest to replace it now.

4. Use thick rubbery double tape to place the receiver. I know KO propo receiver hates vibration. Unlike sanwa, which is stronger receiver for vibrations.

5. Use Y wire extension, so you plug & unplug the electrical power from Y wire extension instead of doing it directly from receiver's pins. ( If one day the connections are loose, simply replace the Y wire extension ).

6. In your case, you need to replace the servo completely. Buy new servo like PDS-2367.

7. Set your maximum end point adjustment through your radio. When maximum turning point is already set, the servo won't get burnt. Same with maximum throttle and brake position. Set them correctly, so the servo won't get burnt.
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Last edited by asw7576; 02-27-2009 at 11:09 PM.
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