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Old 02-15-2009, 09:46 PM   #2671
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Thanks all.. I'll try this.. Im just afraid that opening the screws on the car is gonna loosen everything up and damage the holes for the screws so I wont be able to tighten them anymore!! Which is what I hate, cos I cant strip the car down as many times as I would like to, which is after every weekend..
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:19 AM   #2672
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Default I'm back...and looking for parts

Whats good racers,

I have been off the grid for about a year but am looking to get going for the 09 season. I took the MTX4R out of storage and decided I wanted to treat myself to a new 4mm chassis (hey, we're suppose to spend to stimulate the economy right?)

Here's my issue, my local hobby shop appears to be out of business (CWhit if you are out there hit me up) so where is a good place on line to pick up the Mugen 4mm chassis. I would prefer not to go with the 3Racing. Thanks

I'm also looking for the Ti Screw set as well.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:39 AM   #2673
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Default flywheel

hi guys..
1 of the pins on the flywheel broke off..
can i glue back the pin and use it for the time being??
give me ur advice
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:26 AM   #2674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by va_connoisseur View Post
Whats good racers,

I have been off the grid for about a year but am looking to get going for the 09 season. I took the MTX4R out of storage and decided I wanted to treat myself to a new 4mm chassis (hey, we're suppose to spend to stimulate the economy right?)

Here's my issue, my local hobby shop appears to be out of business (CWhit if you are out there hit me up) so where is a good place on line to pick up the Mugen 4mm chassis. I would prefer not to go with the 3Racing. Thanks

I'm also looking for the Ti Screw set as well.
va_connoisseur,

Yeah heard about C Whit's hobby shop - Bummer!

If you need a 4mm chassis or any other Mugen Parts, call (714) 997-TOYS (8697) and ask for Sam or Nigel. They carry Mugen parts and will get them to you right away.
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:41 AM   #2675
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Hey guys, im having a slight problem..

My steering servo horn touches the battery pack when its at full steer. How can I solve this? Im using one of those long type of servo horns, I dont know what you call them, but its plastic. I found that the plastic is not bent out of shape because of this..

The only thing I can think of is changing the servo horn, but I dont know which type to use or if this is the correct fix at all.. Thanks guys !

Chris,
Chris,

Which part of the servo horn is hitting the battery pack? Assuming it's the top part and it hits the battery pack when full steer to the LEFT, maybe the battery pack was taped up a little too forward onto the battery tray? If so, then simply retaping it (a little back) would probably solve the issue.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:28 AM   #2676
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Chris,

Which part of the servo horn is hitting the battery pack? Assuming it's the top part and it hits the battery pack when full steer to the LEFT, maybe the battery pack was taped up a little too forward onto the battery tray? If so, then simply retaping it (a little back) would probably solve the issue.

Hope this helps.
The battery pack is sitting right smack center if im not mistaken. But it wasnt me who taped it in there, it was a guy from our LHS. I havent noticed it since. But i'll remove it now to check.

And, its the bottom part that hits the battery pack, because im using one of those double sided horns. I will be going to my LHS soon to get a single sided one and used that instead for the steering.

Thanks for the advice Ron, I will check on these things now..

Apart from that, I would like to ask, does the 4mm chassis work much better? If so, how come its not already on the MTX-4R? Im sure Mugen used 3mm chassis for a reason right? Can anyone explain to me which is better?

If im not mistaken, I also noticed that on the 4mm chassis, everything has a groove to sit in, am I right? Does this mean lowered CG ?

Thanks again guys.. Your vast pools of knowledge is what keeps me alive in this sport/hobby.. !!

Chris,
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:48 AM   #2677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by va_connoisseur View Post
Whats good racers,

I have been off the grid for about a year but am looking to get going for the 09 season. I took the MTX4R out of storage and decided I wanted to treat myself to a new 4mm chassis (hey, we're suppose to spend to stimulate the economy right?)

Here's my issue, my local hobby shop appears to be out of business (CWhit if you are out there hit me up) so where is a good place on line to pick up the Mugen 4mm chassis. I would prefer not to go with the 3Racing. Thanks

I'm also looking for the Ti Screw set as well.
I would take a look at YBslow's chassis for the MTX4R
Extremely stiff lighter than the stock chassis
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:52 AM   #2678
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Originally Posted by xtopher_aaron View Post
The battery pack is sitting right smack center if im not mistaken. But it wasnt me who taped it in there, it was a guy from our LHS. I havent noticed it since. But i'll remove it now to check.

And, its the bottom part that hits the battery pack, because im using one of those double sided horns. I will be going to my LHS soon to get a single sided one and used that instead for the steering.

Thanks for the advice Ron, I will check on these things now..

Apart from that, I would like to ask, does the 4mm chassis work much better? If so, how come its not already on the MTX-4R? Im sure Mugen used 3mm chassis for a reason right? Can anyone explain to me which is better?

If im not mistaken, I also noticed that on the 4mm chassis, everything has a groove to sit in, am I right? Does this mean lowered CG ?

Thanks again guys.. Your vast pools of knowledge is what keeps me alive in this sport/hobby.. !!

Chris,
Chris,

Since it's the bottom part that's hitting, I would think simply grinding it more would solve it. I too use the double sided Airtronics Servo Horns and also have to cut off the other side. After which I make sure I grind the rest of the uncut plastic with a dremel to clean out the bottom part and make sure it does not hit anything. Try this first, you may not need to buy another servo horn.

Regarding the 4mm Chassis, it is there as a tuning item for obvious reasons that it makes the car stiffer. The 4 mm chassis does not mean it is better than the 3 mm or vice versa. They both have their advantages and disadvantages over the other, depending on your application and track conditions. How? That can be explain separately but it is all about the facts on "Chassis Flex".

You are correct, one of the reasons for the grinded parts of the 4mm chassis is to maintain the CG as you would have the main components (motor, radio tray, etc) sit it on a 3mm.
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:56 AM   #2679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtopher_aaron View Post
The battery pack is sitting right smack center if im not mistaken. But it wasnt me who taped it in there, it was a guy from our LHS. I havent noticed it since. But i'll remove it now to check.

And, its the bottom part that hits the battery pack, because im using one of those double sided horns. I will be going to my LHS soon to get a single sided one and used that instead for the steering.

Thanks for the advice Ron, I will check on these things now..

Apart from that, I would like to ask, does the 4mm chassis work much better? If so, how come its not already on the MTX-4R? Im sure Mugen used 3mm chassis for a reason right? Can anyone explain to me which is better?

If im not mistaken, I also noticed that on the 4mm chassis, everything has a groove to sit in, am I right? Does this mean lowered CG ?

Thanks again guys.. Your vast pools of knowledge is what keeps me alive in this sport/hobby.. !!

Chris,
You need to get a single side servo horn. The 4mm chassis is stiffer. If it were included in the kit that would raise the price. Not everyone likes the feel of the 4mm chassis. To say which one is better is hard to say. It just matters if the stiffer chassis feels better to the driver.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:11 AM   #2680
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Thanks for the advice..

Just wondering, before i spend a bunch of cash on the chassis.. What are the handling characteristics of the 4mm compared to the 3mm?

Does the 3mm turn tighter or sharper? Or is it the 4mm? I would really like to know whats the difference here before i invest in something like that. I know the added strength would definitly be something I want..

Thanks in advance guys..
Chris,
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:46 PM   #2681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtopher_aaron View Post
Thanks for the advice..

Just wondering, before i spend a bunch of cash on the chassis.. What are the handling characteristics of the 4mm compared to the 3mm?

Does the 3mm turn tighter or sharper? Or is it the 4mm? I would really like to know whats the difference here before i invest in something like that. I know the added strength would definitly be something I want..

Thanks in advance guys..
Chris,

The 3mm may give better over all traction. The 4mm may feel a little more twitcher with better steering response. Again if you are new to onroad you may not be able to feel the difference.
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:59 PM   #2682
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Im new to RC in general.. hahah.. This Mugen is my first car really.

But not being cocky or anything, im a quick learner with everything, so im doing my best to catch up here!! haha..

Thanks for the info man..
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Old 02-16-2009, 01:32 PM   #2683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtopher_aaron View Post
Thanks for the advice..

Just wondering, before i spend a bunch of cash on the chassis.. What are the handling characteristics of the 4mm compared to the 3mm?

Does the 3mm turn tighter or sharper? Or is it the 4mm? I would really like to know whats the difference here before i invest in something like that. I know the added strength would definitly be something I want..

Thanks in advance guys..
Chris,
Chris, Yes, possibly tighter or sharper turns with the 3 MM.

Wish there was a direct answer but there are other factors involved as mentioned before. Anyway, here’s my personal differentiation (in simple ways) in terms of Steering and Stability between the 2:

3 MM : More Chassis Flex and therefore more responsive car and possibly more steering. The 3 mm is more forgiving if you miss a set up a little.

4 MM : Less Chassis flex and therefore gives out a more stable car. Amount of steering may be less but Steering is more Linear. Note on the word linear. This is because the 4 mm is reacts more to Set Up Changes.

If you want to go more in depth, research “Chassis Flex”. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:58 AM   #2684
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The 4mm sounds like something I will like. I like the idea of an unforgiving car that will punish you for bad setups. At least I can get a clearer picture of what I might be doing wrong or if im doing anything wrong.

I also like the idea of more LINEAR steering. Again, this will tell me what im doing wrong.. Or if theres something wrong..

Plus the 4mm sounds more direct. This way if setup is good, im sure the car will also handle much better..

Thanks guys !!
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:43 AM   #2685
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Default ..

guys any advise???
thanks
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