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Old 01-29-2009, 10:27 AM   #2536
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Originally Posted by olev View Post
You don't need ANY aluminium parts on the car, just run it like you stole it. Stainless screws are worthless, they are softer than the standard screws. Ti screws are good, if your car is overweight. Ti pivot balls are good, they are lighter, less unsprung mass. Maybe also the lightweight midshafts are worth trying, but I don't have them on my car. Most of the aftermarket "hop-ups" are worthless junk that only make the car look more shiny.
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson View Post
Very true statement some hop ups don't help performance its just eye candy....
+1
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:46 PM   #2537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olev View Post
You don't need ANY aluminium parts on the car, just run it like you stole it. Stainless screws are worthless, they are softer than the standard screws. Ti screws are good, if your car is overweight. Ti pivot balls are good, they are lighter, less unsprung mass. Maybe also the lightweight midshafts are worth trying, but I don't have them on my car. Most of the aftermarket "hop-ups" are worthless junk that only make the car look more shiny.
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson View Post
Very true statement some hop ups don't help performance its just eye candy....
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Originally Posted by Ron C. View Post
+1
+2, with a caveat. The only other thing I'd suggest an aluminum side brace to replace the plastic one that comes with the kit. The 4R comes with the locking wheel hubs, so you should be good there. Some like the adjustable rear sway and it does work in instances, but you can also upgrade to the stiffer wire bar and be good for the most part.
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Old 01-29-2009, 02:00 PM   #2538
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I like the aluminum brace that connects the rear bulkhead to the radio plate...

I also use the rear blade sway bar for quick adjustments.... Not needed but convenient for lazy guys like me....
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Old 01-29-2009, 02:59 PM   #2539
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hey francis ,is the hot set-up for c/p a frt diff now? or still the spool
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Old 01-29-2009, 03:20 PM   #2540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olev View Post
You don't need ANY aluminium parts on the car, just run it like you stole it. Stainless screws are worthless, they are softer than the standard screws. Ti screws are good, if your car is overweight. Ti pivot balls are good, they are lighter, less unsprung mass. Maybe also the lightweight midshafts are worth trying, but I don't have them on my car. Most of the aftermarket "hop-ups" are worthless junk that only make the car look more shiny.
yea but if you cant be fast you got to look good lol
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:57 PM   #2541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiTrO BoOsTeR View Post
yea but if you cant be fast you got to look good lol
Hahahahhaha!! Good one !!

Thanks for all the thoughts guys. I was only wondering this because its a little hard to come by those alu parts at the LHS. Only way to get them would be to order them online.

But just a quick thought. Our LHS is a Mugen dealer, should he have all those parts, at least so that i can order them no?

Oh well.. Thanks for another great lesson learnt !
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:46 PM   #2542
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Where is hoboshop ??

He has very nice back straight theory to answer this
now now, lets enjoy this calm great conversation!!!

erase that before you get him started again
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:48 PM   #2543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASASMUGEN View Post
Whats up, just read some of you alls earlier post about the picco.
Just have a couple things to say. I run picco i'm not sponsored i paid 179.00
At 301 raceway, clinton Maryland I run 20.6 - 21.4 lap times. at the capitol classic thats held in June. I put it in the Amain until the last qulifier got bumped out ended up in the Bmain. Not bad for 179.00 motor thats slow

Drive then buy power.

also it could have been the car KYOSHO EVO maybe thats why i can go so fast with this so called slow motor.


Just kidding

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becuase when you drive the best you will be the best!!!!!!!
KYOSHO WHAT!!!!!!!

PICCOOOOOO POWWWER!
thanks for posting that Gerry, can i copy it and post it in the JL thread!
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:57 PM   #2544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
This is my taste :

Kawahara Aluminium Wheel Hex
Kawahara Rear Stabiliser
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Front Plate
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Back Plate
Mugen Seiki or Tamiya Titanium Screws ( I prefer to use 4mm longer screws for holding plastic parts all together ).
me like this one

http://kawahara-racing.co.jp/mtx4.partslist/k.852b.jpg
and the kawahara chassis.

browse the page bro, very useful goodies
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:37 AM   #2545
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Quote:
hey francis ,is the hot set-up for c/p a frt diff now? or still the spool
Maybe you should ask someone in here what is the fastest on the back straight, a spool / diff / solid.
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:44 AM   #2546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiTrO BoOsTeR View Post
yea but if you cant be fast you got to look good lol
That's true too LOL!
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:03 PM   #2547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentleman81 View Post
PICCOOOOOO POWWWER!
thanks for posting that Gerry, can i copy it and post it in the JL thread!
Yes my man, let everyone know Picco



gerry


because when you drive the best you will be the best!!!!!!
KYOSHO WHAT!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:39 AM   #2548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentleman81 View Post
i agree with you

-wide open flowing track. one way, but if u need brakes
-little more technical, solid
-very technical, front diff.
-but the front diff can almost be made a solid with thicker fliuds.
driving style will decide it for you.
myself i doubt i will ever go back to a oneway after using the solid
Or an adjustable one way.

I have modified my one way, so I can, with a turn of a screw can adjust it gradually anywhere between full one way action to almost spool.
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:41 AM   #2549
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Also, has anyone here experimented with adjustable wheelbase yet?

On my MTX4-R, I can shorten my wheelbase 2.5mm. Make a heck of a difference when you need real steering on tight tracks.
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Old 01-31-2009, 06:30 AM   #2550
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Stefan, by adjusting the wheelbase, do you mean cutting the front lower arms? I think this is what Mugen guys did at last years WC in Portugal to get more steering. Haven't tried it myself.
Care to explain in a bit more detail your adjustable oneway solution? Sounds interesting...
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