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Old 10-27-2008, 05:37 PM   #2236
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I was blowing gears in my MTX4R running an OS SPEED .12 TZ, stock mount, and 3MM chassis. I just got the new gears in with the new material. I do think that since mugen discontinued the old gears and is producing gears with a better material it is admission to guilt!
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:50 PM   #2237
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I was blowing gears in my MTX4R running an OS SPEED .12 TZ, stock mount, and 3MM chassis. I just got the new gears in with the new material. I do think that since mugen discontinued the old gears and is producing gears with a better material it is admission to guilt!
Guilt for what?

9 out of 10 MTX4 owners I know, never had a problem with the gears, me and my son included.

The few cases I witnessed, were usually resolved quickly with proper engine alignment and gear mesh. It was never the car, but always bad maintenance or a badly built car.

Shame on Mugen for that
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:52 AM   #2238
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i always tell people that when comparing issues, you have to have the same numbers on both sides.

they ask me if HP printers are returned more than any other brand, and realistically the answer is yes. but only due to the amount sold. if we sell 10 to 3 HP to other brands, the percentage of machines returned is gonna be greater.

look at mugen for instance. if they are the more popular car, than more people will experience or hear about the issue, not just due the the issue, but because of the percentage.

thats how i see it, in the A mains at my track we average 90% mugens, when the car came out, yes it was a pain. but now that we know the car needs to be on point, and well maintained. we rarely see it happen.
and when it does you have to factor in every thing that car has went through during its time on the track. hitn boards, walls, flipping over, getting hit, etc. and all while being spun at 40,000 rpms.

my 3cent
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:25 PM   #2239
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i always tell people that when comparing issues, you have to have the same numbers on both sides.

they ask me if HP printers are returned more than any other brand, and realistically the answer is yes. but only due to the amount sold. if we sell 10 to 3 HP to other brands, the percentage of machines returned is gonna be greater.

look at mugen for instance. if they are the more popular car, than more people will experience or hear about the issue, not just due the the issue, but because of the percentage.

thats how i see it, in the A mains at my track we average 90% mugens, when the car came out, yes it was a pain. but now that we know the car needs to be on point, and well maintained. we rarely see it happen.
and when it does you have to factor in every thing that car has went through during its time on the track. hitn boards, walls, flipping over, getting hit, etc. and all while being spun at 40,000 rpms.

my 3cent
Not to praise hpi....but the many posts we did have in there, there was never talk about blowing gears...in fact I cant even remember one single post about someone unknowningly blowing a gear.

As many of those who have never had an issue myself included , have you gone to a larger track with good grip? Cause thats where my issue finally showed up.

The car has the issue...its like ufo sightings , theres just too many sightings to say that there isnt evidence of this.
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Old 10-29-2008, 09:17 PM   #2240
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If you guys want really good and consistant brakes, try Kyosho's brake pads, part number APP-02-02.

Best brakes I ever had in a Mugen car

Can someone using these brakes please PM me with some help regardign this.

I've just put them on 2 cars, both standard non slotted discs.. And it seems they just dont work/bind up all the time..

I can get them to come on but then they bind, if i back my end point off a bit I get NO brakes.

Help please

PM if you have any ideas.
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:49 AM   #2241
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Hey Cam, long time no see. Check the alignment of the holes compared to the mugen shoes. They might be off slightly and catching on the threads of the screws. Also check the brake cam isn't binding, this is happening with my kyosho so I've had to put a return spring on the brake like on the throttle link
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:14 AM   #2242
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Hey man, been a while :P

Yeh, good idea might need to ream the holes out a bit as they are a different backing to the mugen (metal).. Seems like a thick rubbery/vinyl.
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Old 10-30-2008, 05:38 AM   #2243
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I run the MTX4R with a modified 12+3 and have only stripped one spur gear in well over a year, and that one was my fault. Did not tighten the bolts down.
Plus I still use the stock chassis. I bought the new 4mm chassis, and never even opened it up.
When I ran the MTX3 with the stock gears, I never had a problem, but when I changed the gears to the .08, I could never keep gears in the car, so I went back to the stock gears.
It has to be something in the build, bent shaft,bolts stripped, or something that may be just overlooked that is causing the gears to strip out so quickly.
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:34 PM   #2244
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Which one piece engine mount fit's the Mugen 4mm chassis?
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:38 PM   #2245
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Which one piece engine mount fit's the Mugen 4mm chassis?

I think kawahara makes one... I just use the optional two peice by mugen though...
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Old 10-30-2008, 04:20 PM   #2246
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Which one piece engine mount fit's the Mugen 4mm chassis?
none

it's the kawahara 4mm chassis that can use any 1-piece
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:07 PM   #2247
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shame.. The one piece mount is 6 grams lighter. I just installed the 4mm chassis and looking to shed some weight.
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:27 PM   #2248
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shame.. The one piece mount is 6 grams lighter. I just installed the 4mm chassis and looking to shed some weight.



How much does your car weight? I have the airtronics servos with alum heat sink. to offset the extra weight from the servo I installed MSR light weight pulley adapters, ti pivot balls, and the ti screw set from mugen upper screws only, mugen alum 2 peice engine mount and I am barely making legal weight.....
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:40 PM   #2249
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When I ran the Kawahara 3mm chassis(just installed the mugen 4mm)with ti pillow balls, lighten 2sp shaft(steel),Msr ti front shaft,ti turnbuckles all the way around. Servos are a Ko for steering and Jr 590 for throttle. all steel screws in race condition weighed 1765g to 1780g depending on which engine I ran. I'm in the process of rebuilding the car so I will get a final weight soon.

I also want to try running a diff next year which will add more weight along with the 4mm chassis. any ideas where Ican shed will be greatly appreciated
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:48 PM   #2250
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Ti Screws should reduce the weight by a lot. You could even take it one step further and use alum screw on non high stress areas....
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