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Old 10-08-2008, 04:52 AM   #2176
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Hey Rui,
It was nice to see people coming down to bluediamond. I also just picked up a MTX4-R off of the forums. I will be putting it down for the first time this upcoming weekend. time to retire my MTX-3. haha 5 years of service out of it has been enough. I will also be breaking in a motor this week as I threw a rod in the main and it destroyed the case and everything.
Hey
From your screen name i cant figure out who this is? Anyway, welcome to the 4r club. . Sucks about the motor, but a new car deserves a new motor
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:35 PM   #2177
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I bought the kawahara K-877 REAR BRACE



where are the two o-rings go?
Underneath the holes of your brace.
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Old 10-10-2008, 08:50 AM   #2178
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Hey Guys,
I am having an issue while installing my Red Dot Evo 3 in my MTX-4R. I install the clutch per the manual for the car. When I put the motor in the car it seems like the crank shaft is too short. When meshing the gears there is not enough adjustment in the chassis to have the the pinions completly in contact with the spur gears. ( This is side to side adjustment in the car, not front to back) Is there something I am missing here? Do I need to add a shim behind the collet to have the flywheel/clutch assembly out further? This is a new motor, I previously had the same motor in my MTX-3 and had no issues. I am using the stock chassis in the car and stock engine mounts. I have the Kyosho 1 piece mount and it gives me the same problem. I have also tried to mount my old motor in the MTX4-R and I also have this issue.

Any help would be huge!

Thank you,

George
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:04 AM   #2179
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Make sure the carb is not hitting the brake disc. If so; rotate the carb slightly
so it clears the brake disc
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:38 AM   #2180
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Make sure the carb is not hitting the brake disc. If so; rotate the carb slightly
so it clears the brake disc

thank you, I will check that when I get home.

Any other suggestions guys?

Thanks
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Old 10-10-2008, 03:47 PM   #2181
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Hello, can i suggest a possible reason for the Mugen stripped gears. After stripping a gear myself on my second run with the Mugen (at the beginning of this summer season) I decided to see if i could find out why it had happened. I was confident the mesh was good and the engine mount screws had been tight and i hadn't taken a heavy impact.

When i stripped the car and looked closer at the engine mount, i saw that the crankcase fins pushed the engine mounts out very slightly. I removed about 4mm off half the lower internal engine mount, re-installed the engine and checked that it cleared without fouling - it did.

After re-installing, i ran the car for about 5 months without stripping a gear. The first time i stripped a gear was when i installed a new engine! After taking the engine and mounts out i saw that this second engine (RB SpeedLine Matrix RW .12 Engine) had wider crankcase fins and was again fouling on the mounts. I dremeled 5mm along the full distance of the mounts and have not stripped a gear since.

If this is correct, it would explain why some racers have had problems and others haven't - it just depends if the engine you've installed fouls on the mounts! It can't hurt to have a look yourself.

Just to make this a really long first post - the one problem i did have with my Mugen for the hole season was trying to stop the rear of the car from bouncing on bumpy tracks - i tried the usual - pistons, springs, oils, weight balance, droop etc and came up with no real improvement. I am now running with anti-squat and a different manufacturers springs, which seems ok. Has anybody got any sound advice? or should i try a different manufacturers set of shock units? I always thought Mugen shocks had a good reputation - what do people think of them? Is there anything other than the shocks that i should be looking at?

Any possible solutions / reasons / suggestions would be well appreciated.
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Old 10-10-2008, 03:53 PM   #2182
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Originally Posted by G87z View Post
thank you, I will check that when I get home.

Any other suggestions guys?

Thanks
The only thing I have found that works is the skylinerc one piece mount, it gives you more pinion/spur contact
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:20 PM   #2183
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Originally Posted by racing-jester View Post
Hello, can i suggest a possible reason for the Mugen stripped gears. After stripping a gear myself on my second run with the Mugen (at the beginning of this summer season) I decided to see if i could find out why it had happened. I was confident the mesh was good and the engine mount screws had been tight and i hadn't taken a heavy impact.

When i stripped the car and looked closer at the engine mount, i saw that the crankcase fins pushed the engine mounts out very slightly. I removed about 4mm off half the lower internal engine mount, re-installed the engine and checked that it cleared without fouling - it did.

After re-installing, i ran the car for about 5 months without stripping a gear. The first time i stripped a gear was when i installed a new engine! After taking the engine and mounts out i saw that this second engine (RB SpeedLine Matrix RW .12 Engine) had wider crankcase fins and was again fouling on the mounts. I dremeled 5mm along the full distance of the mounts and have not stripped a gear since.

If this is correct, it would explain why some racers have had problems and others haven't - it just depends if the engine you've installed fouls on the mounts! It can't hurt to have a look yourself.

Just to make this a really long first post - the one problem i did have with my Mugen for the hole season was trying to stop the rear of the car from bouncing on bumpy tracks - i tried the usual - pistons, springs, oils, weight balance, droop etc and came up with no real improvement. I am now running with anti-squat and a different manufacturers springs, which seems ok. Has anybody got any sound advice? or should i try a different manufacturers set of shock units? I always thought Mugen shocks had a good reputation - what do people think of them? Is there anything other than the shocks that i should be looking at?

Any possible solutions / reasons / suggestions would be well appreciated.
Is there anyway you could post a pic of what and how you modified the fins?
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:38 PM   #2184
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I'll get a pic up at the end of the week when i get home Artwork.

Anyone with ideas about calming the rear end of my Mugen down when going through bumpy sections of track? All the Serpents look a lot better through this section of our local track.
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:19 PM   #2185
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Not to Hijak the thread. But if anyone is interested in a MTX4r, or what ever. Take a look

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ll-set-up.html


As for the gears. The only thing I had to do to fix it was mesh the gears right lol. Never had problems after. That and make sure the clutch wasnt hitting 2nd housing.
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:03 PM   #2186
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yea yea pics, you may be on to something!!!
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:57 AM   #2187
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yea yea pics, you may be on to something!!!
Agreed. I haven't had a problem unless the mesh was off, but the which engine is installed hasn't been explored as far as I know. I have seen some interesting fitment issues with an RB or two (can't remember if it was a Matrix or Zenon), so anything is possible. Maybe those having this chronic problem should post up their engines to see if anything in common comes up.

For the record, no problems with the Ninja. At least not mine.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:36 AM   #2188
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There use to be a great web site called KBmtx4r but my link doesn't work anymore and i can't seem to find it, anybody help with this.
The problem of stripping gears has been covered before but heres some tips to try again,
Use an old thrust washer race to space your clutch bell off the flywheel nut, this gives you the correct spacing to prevent the clutch bell moving back and forth to much.
Set the thrust bearing with as little play as possible and regrease ever race day.
Check for proper aglignment of gears this may require spacing of flywheel
Check 2speed clutch for correct engagement tolerances as the harder 2nd gear hits the more likely stripping 2nd gear.
Set 2nd gear mesh first with 1st gear removed.
Check that the correct ratios are being used. ie 17/23 and 53/59 this is std
Replace pinions.

with all these things in check you should overcome the problem.
i still strip one ever now and then but more likely because of a hit or jumping the corner disks.

Correct me if im wrong but the RB xenon motors are sirio based and i to had problems with an evo3 with the engine mounts not mounting square.
nothing the dremel won't fix.

Cheers
Braz
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:07 AM   #2189
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any ideas on brake pads? i have the vented mugen disk, have tried blue & yellow pads but in mains they fade after a while.
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:46 AM   #2190
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any ideas on brake pads? i have the vented mugen disk, have tried blue & yellow pads but in mains they fade after a while.
Check back a few pages on this thread. A few people are using the Kyosho pads. I am going to switch to the blue pads, they are supposed to be the best the mugen has to offer. ha-ha. What throttle/brake servo are you using? Possibly it does not have enough torque?
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