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Old 10-05-2008, 06:25 PM   #2161
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Hey guys I'm having the stripped gear problem but I think it's my mesh more than anything. Problem is I wanted to stock up on a few and I can't find them anywhere instock. MUGT0252 (59T) and MUGT0255 (53T).
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Old 10-05-2008, 06:42 PM   #2162
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I've ran a 1040 pipe with my spec II and it's been great, I've just got the 1050 now and it seems pretty good too, though I didn't make run time the one heat I've used it. The max 2602 (I think) is supposed to be better for run time but I cant find them anywhere
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:17 PM   #2163
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Are the MUGTO252 and the MUGT0280 the same? Also the MUGT0255 and the MUGT0283 the same also?
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:31 PM   #2164
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Originally Posted by B-DAWG View Post
Hey guys I'm having the stripped gear problem but I think it's my mesh more than anything. Problem is I wanted to stock up on a few and I can't find them anywhere instock. MUGT0252 (59T) and MUGT0255 (53T).
They have actually released new versions under different part numbers
http://www.mugenseiki.com/t0279_284-e.htm
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:12 PM   #2165
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Are the MUGTO252 and the MUGT0280 the same? Also the MUGT0255 and the MUGT0283 the same also?
The MUGT0283 and MUGT0280 are the new versions (w/ new material) of the MUGT0255 and MUGT0252.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:44 AM   #2166
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hi guys, i have a problem with my shock absorbers. i fill them, wait for the air bubbles, etc. and slowly tighen the cap. when its full tightened, i compress the shock shaft, and it rebounds all the way down quickly. after 30mins of racing, i compress it and there is a little rebound, like 3mm. i open the shock, and see that in the diaphram(membrane) there is no space, the air has gone. how can i prevent this? should i put foams in it, or somebody told me that he used 2-3 orings for that. what should i do?

thanks in advance
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Old 10-06-2008, 10:28 AM   #2167
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Where are you guys getting parts for the MTX4? I need to get some new CVD bones and a front sway bar but it seems the only place is nitro house. Any thoughts on more good places?
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Old 10-06-2008, 10:31 AM   #2168
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Where are you guys getting parts for the MTX4? I need to get some new CVD bones and a front sway bar but it seems the only place is nitro house. Any thoughts on more good places?
www.ashfordhobby.com
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:46 PM   #2169
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I've ran a 1040 pipe with my spec II and it's been great, I've just got the 1050 now and it seems pretty good too, though I didn't make run time the one heat I've used it. The max 2602 (I think) is supposed to be better for run time but I cant find them anywhere
RB 2604, goes very well also
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:36 PM   #2170
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Originally Posted by musti72 View Post
hi guys, i have a problem with my shock absorbers. i fill them, wait for the air bubbles, etc. and slowly tighen the cap. when its full tightened, i compress the shock shaft, and it rebounds all the way down quickly. after 30mins of racing, i compress it and there is a little rebound, like 3mm. i open the shock, and see that in the diaphram(membrane) there is no space, the air has gone. how can i prevent this? should i put foams in it, or somebody told me that he used 2-3 orings for that. what should i do?

thanks in advance
I have the same problem.
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:49 PM   #2171
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Originally Posted by madjack View Post
I run the spec II, good motor with tons of top end. It seems best for big tracks and can be thirsty with the wrong pipe.
Mugen 2501 pipe works well for med to large tracks with good fuel economy
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Old 10-06-2008, 04:39 PM   #2172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musti72 View Post
hi guys, i have a problem with my shock absorbers. i fill them, wait for the air bubbles, etc. and slowly tighen the cap. when its full tightened, i compress the shock shaft, and it rebounds all the way down quickly. after 30mins of racing, i compress it and there is a little rebound, like 3mm. i open the shock, and see that in the diaphram(membrane) there is no space, the air has gone. how can i prevent this? should i put foams in it, or somebody told me that he used 2-3 orings for that. what should i do?

thanks in advance
The way I do my shocks is I fill it almost to the top and then I pump the shocks with the top off. Then I place them in my shock pump vacuum to remove any air(not really needed) then I screw the cap on very very slowly making sure the excess fluid has time to leave the shock thru the vent hole. Before the cap is fully closed (slowly) push the shock shaft half way up into the shock body and then continue closing the cap slowly. Once I'm done my shock has very little rebound about 3/16 of an inch. The key is that the shock should not have alot of internal pressure(ie alot of rebound). If done correctly the shock should have the same amount resistance thru-out the entire travel of the shock shaft with very little rebound. After this is done then I mount the (2) shocks in my Losi shock tool which checks the balance of the two shocks to ensure they have the same amount of rebound. It may
take a couple of tries to get it right.


Hope this helps


Pass you soon...
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:32 AM   #2173
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Default stripped gears

I bought this car used of someone here on rctech. It looked to be in very good condition and almost new like he said. First day out with it, no problem. Second day out with it 3 stripped gears. The first day out with it i think i didnt have a problem because i went over the car before i took it out.

Here is what i did and it worked for me this past weekend.

Replaced the 2nd gears shoes with the new one. Make sure the gap is not too big between the shoes and housing.
Made sure all screws were tight after every race, especially in the rear bulk head.

I ran 2 practice tanks, a little more then 5 minutes each. 3 qualifies at 5 min each and a 10 minute a-main without a single problem. I also broke in a motor, 15 tanks before this past weekend.

I figured i would post this because i know how it feels to be let down.
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Last edited by nitrobeast; 10-07-2008 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:48 AM   #2174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
I bought this car used of someone here on rctech. It looked to be in very good condition and almost new like he said. First day out with it, no problem. Second day out with it 3 stripped gears. The first day out with it i think i didnt have a problem because i went over the car before i took it out.

Here is what i did and it worked for me this past weekend.

Replaced the 2nd gears shoes with the new one. Make sure the gap is not too big between the shoes and housing.
Made sure all screws were tight after every race, especially in the rear bulk head.

I ran 2 practice tanks, a little more then 5 minutes each. 3 qualifies at 5 min each and a 10 minute a-main without a single problem. I also broke in a motor, 15 tanks before this past weekend.

I figured i would post this because i know how it feels to be let down.

Hey Rui,
It was nice to see people coming down to bluediamond. I also just picked up a MTX4-R off of the forums. I will be putting it down for the first time this upcoming weekend. time to retire my MTX-3. haha 5 years of service out of it has been enough. I will also be breaking in a motor this week as I threw a rod in the main and it destroyed the case and everything.
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Old 10-08-2008, 04:45 AM   #2175
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I bought the kawahara K-877 REAR BRACE



where are the two o-rings go?
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