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Old 08-31-2008, 11:14 PM   #2026
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I placed them all side by side and part that attatches to the steering linkage are all at the same height. I'm pretty sure the to-164(2 degreee) will look totally different. I just need to see the difference between the 138 and 138b front uprights. thanks for the info any other info will be appreciated.


Pass you soon...
Let me try get some pics up tonight to show the difference.
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Old 09-01-2008, 02:24 AM   #2027
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Part no. Steering Kingpin
T0138 HIGH Vertical
T0138B LOW Vertical
T0164 LOW 2deg

I hope you can understand the table above...
The difference between T0138 and 138B is the steering mounting point, the original is 3mm higher. T0164 has upper pivot ball more towards the center of the chassis (kingpin 2 degrees inclined). The difference between T0138 and the rest is easily visible when you have them side-by-side. Between T0138B and T0164, IIRC the T0138B outer edge is flat, the T064 is a little inclined at the upper pivot ball.
You must use the newer lower arms with both T0138B and T0164, or cut the old arms to fit, it's not hard.
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Old 09-01-2008, 03:16 AM   #2028
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what are the difference between T0138B and T0164 on car handling?
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:18 PM   #2029
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the 64's worked very well for me on a big track with alot off on power steering. I could be wrong but I think the 138'bs offer more steering. I think to run the 138's you have to change the front lower arm. Could be wrong thou.
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:46 AM   #2030
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Thanks dude. Its made by?
Penguin RC made those . i had them on my MTX2 & 3 as well.

They still sell them for a whopping $2.99

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/mu...iki/p6000.html

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Old 09-02-2008, 12:57 AM   #2031
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Originally Posted by quietstorm76 View Post
That was my finding in that the gear was heating up. My issue was that my end bell was touching the 2speed housing.
This is so strange. I am through my fourth MTX4 (R), my son through his second, and I have lots of friend with MTX4's and nobody i know ever had this gear stripping problem, ever.

I asked team drivers about it, and since they never had it, they can't offer any help.
Btw, I had my clutch bell touch the 2-speed housing in a 30 minute heat 2 weeks ago. Deep groove but not gear stripping.

What we have seen lately is a few XRay drivers with stripped spur gears
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Old 09-02-2008, 01:09 AM   #2032
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Originally Posted by stefan View Post
This is so strange. I am through my fourth MTX4 (R), my son through his second, and I have lots of friend with MTX4's and nobody i know ever had this gear stripping problem, ever.

I asked team drivers about it, and since they never had it, they can't offer any help.
Btw, I had my clutch bell touch the 2-speed housing in a 30 minute heat 2 weeks ago. Deep groove but not gear stripping.

What we have seen lately is a few XRay drivers with stripped spur gears
I didn't have a gear stripping problem with the car for the first year i had it, and the car was a used one!
Then i started having gear stripping issues, which i found were due ti a worn 2 speed shaft and i replaced the pinions with steel ones and fitted new spur holders which seemed to fix the issue.
My friend changed to the new 4mm ball 2 speed shoe set which seems to have fixed his stripping issues and also made the 2 speed shift better and also consistently.
I find that the old 2 speed can shift heigher and lower in the rev range with the same setting which can be frustrating, but i think that once i change mine to the 4mm ball set, it should solve the problem!
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Old 09-02-2008, 01:41 AM   #2033
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Originally Posted by stefan View Post
Penguin RC made those . i had them on my MTX2 & 3 as well.

They still sell them for a whopping $2.99

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/mu...iki/p6000.html

I dun suppose they do international shipping do they?
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Old 09-02-2008, 01:44 AM   #2034
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Originally Posted by stefan View Post
This is so strange. I am through my fourth MTX4 (R), my son through his second, and I have lots of friend with MTX4's and nobody i know ever had this gear stripping problem, ever.

I asked team drivers about it, and since they never had it, they can't offer any help.
Btw, I had my clutch bell touch the 2-speed housing in a 30 minute heat 2 weeks ago. Deep groove but not gear stripping.

What we have seen lately is a few XRay drivers with stripped spur gears
Well, all i can say you one of those lucky dude! I have frens who has not stripped any gears too and a few who has.

Its still a mystery.
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:17 AM   #2035
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gday, i am also one of the racers who have never striped a gear on my MTX4r i have done a whole season with out striping a gear, they are looking a little bit worn but i can still get a perfect mesh, i use the 3racing metal brace that goes from the rear bulkhead to the radio tray.

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Old 09-02-2008, 02:46 AM   #2036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
the 64's worked very well for me on a big track with alot off on power steering. I could be wrong but I think the 138'bs offer more steering. I think to run the 138's you have to change the front lower arm. Could be wrong thou.
The new lower arm can be used with all steering blocks, the old arms can be used only with original T0138, for other blocks they have to be modified a bit.
Regarding difference between T0138B and T0164, I have always felt the T0164 to be more aggressive and give more steering everywhere. I have not gone back to T0138B after switching to T0164...
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Old 09-03-2008, 01:36 AM   #2037
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Just some toughts about braking and brake fading.

Beginning of this year I modded my car's braking linkages without use of silicone tubing. The braking movement thus was set up only through EPA ( end point adjustment ). I set the maximum braking point so I can brake effectively without locking, nor spin out at mid cornering.

I feel the braking effect is more solid and definite without existency of silicone tubing. I test this not just for 5 minutes ...., but for the whole race duration involving continuous braking at 2 spots. The braking is always consistent without fading or sagging effect.

I also shortened the brake rod to minimum length for a tidy look on my car.
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:13 AM   #2038
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Just some toughts about braking and brake fading.

Beginning of this year I modded my car's braking linkages without use of silicone tubing. The braking movement thus was set up only through EPA ( end point adjustment ). I set the maximum braking point so I can brake effectively without locking, nor spin out at mid cornering.

I feel the braking effect is more solid and definite without existency of silicone tubing. I test this not just for 5 minutes ...., but for the whole race duration involving continuous braking at 2 spots. The braking is always consistent without fading or sagging effect.

I also shortened the brake rod to minimum length for a tidy look on my car.
I have always tot that brake fading happens when the pads are over heated over a period of repeated usage which result in the loss of stopping power.

I am just curious how would your method help keep the pads in maximum working temperature.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:59 PM   #2039
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
I have always tot that brake fading happens when the pads are over heated over a period of repeated usage which result in the loss of stopping power.

I am just curious how would your method help keep the pads in maximum working temperature.

So far I don't have overheated problem, or fading problem, the brake is always there. Maybe because my home track's layout only involve 2 spots of braking area, and 2 braking spots are not enough to overheat the brake disc. ( I always suspect the length of silicone tubing is the one which can lead us to feel the braking power is fading ).

Just another tips : Put a rubber band on the brake lever ( or a spring on the brake rod ), so when you full throttle, the brake lever is push backwards, making the brake disc 100% free wheeling.

I think these pads are not like in Formula 1 cars, .... you don't have to heat them up to working temperatures.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:21 AM   #2040
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
So far I don't have overheated problem, or fading problem, the brake is always there. Maybe because my home track's layout only involve 2 spots of braking area, and 2 braking spots are not enough to overheat the brake disc. ( I always suspect the length of silicone tubing is the one which can lead us to feel the braking power is fading ).

Just another tips : Put a rubber band on the brake lever ( or a spring on the brake rod ), so when you full throttle, the brake lever is push backwards, making the brake disc 100% free wheeling.

I think these pads are not like in Formula 1 cars, .... you don't have to heat them up to working temperatures.
Interesting. about the silicone tubing thing you mentioned.

No la, i dun think the pads needs to be heated up to working temperatures. We all know that the pads and the disc has to be 'clamped' in order for braking to happens. When the pads comes together with the disc, it creates friction, friction causes the 'braking' and friction creates heat.

The reduction of friction termed brake fade is caused when the temperature reaches the "kneepoint" on the temperature-friction curve.

I think i'm very lousy at explaining
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