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Old 08-25-2008, 07:57 PM   #1951
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Are the new gears really any better? I stripped both grey ones when I hit the wall. And for the main, my first gear was grey, 2nd black (all the hobby shop had) And the both went
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:58 PM   #1952
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You shouldnt be stripping that many gears!

My car took off and hit the wall (dang FASST RX..), and blew a set doing that (and bent my chassis)

And in the main I changed my gearing, and I think I just set the mesh wrong. I dont know how you guys strip that many gears.
Yeah you are right. In the beginning, all my frens were all puzzled and all help to give inputs to resolve this. I tried alot of things and I even had a fren re-built my car cause he thinks i was bad at building cars but to no avail.

I had a nickname going on for a long time, "The Stripper".
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:00 PM   #1953
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Are the new gears really any better? I stripped both grey ones when I hit the wall. And for the main, my first gear was grey, 2nd black (all the hobby shop had) And the both went
Suppose to be of better material. For smoother and more durable so I heard.
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:09 PM   #1954
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Yeah you are right. In the beginning, all my frens were all puzzled and all help to give inputs to resolve this. I tried alot of things and I even had a fren re-built my car cause he thinks i was bad at building cars but to no avail.

I had a nickname going on for a long time, "The Stripper".


Nice! LOL. Yeah I think its all about mesh on these things. There alot harder to get right. One thing I figured out that was easier to do is mesh 2nd gear first, then put 1st on. That worked good when I had patience, towards the main, I was sooo tired


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Suppose to be of better material. For smoother and more durable so I heard.
Hmmm, IDK. Didnt seem much different. But sounds good!
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Old 08-26-2008, 05:30 AM   #1955
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OK, this is what i gather. The first generation of the NT1s (Xray lovers dun flame me, this is what i heard from a Xray driver) there were issues with springs in the 2-speed housing which causes the lag in dis-engaging and in turn causes the stripping. Since then (i think) there were new springs and the problem was resolved.

The new mugen 2-speed housing is supposed to resolve the issues of the housing not dis-engaging fast enough. Theory wise, it should resolve the over heating causing the gear to strip blah blah issues.

But having that also means you need to check that everything else is in good shape. Meshing, bulkheads, screws, rear shaft end play etc. etc.

The parts numbers are :

T0286 Spring Set for 2 Speed Gear Box
T0285 Shoe for 2 Speed Gear Box

Just in case you want to new Spurs, they are:

T0279 - T0284 1st. & 2nd. Spur Gear MTX4R
Do you know who carries all those parts? I looked around and cant find anybody who has it all...
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:11 AM   #1956
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Do you know who carries all those parts? I looked around and cant find anybody who has it all...
If you contact pro shop futaba, they should be able to help you out!
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:58 AM   #1957
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Do you know who carries all those parts? I looked around and cant find anybody who has it all...
States - http://ashfordhobby.com/
Asia - http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/
Europe - http://www.the-border.com/

and many more..
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:58 AM   #1958
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Thanks
Anyone using this brace? Is it worth it?
http://www.ybslowinc.com/products.php?item_id=14
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:11 AM   #1959
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Haven't tried the exhaust side brace, but I do have the aluminum side brace. I remember reading something about measuring the spacing between the shoes and the 2 speed housing before installing it. I think it was on Nitrokb's site (that's down now). There may be a .pdf of it somewhere on the thread; I'll search and see. I did that when I built it and had zero problems, and I haven't tried the revised 2 speed. The only time I have stripped a gear is if the mesh was off or the motor wasn't tight. Other than that, check everything else mentioned above (bulkheads, swaybar, clutch bell) Using the thrust beating washer to help set the gap works wonders, too.
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:20 AM   #1960
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Haven't tried the exhaust side brace, but I do have the aluminum side brace. I remember reading something about measuring the spacing between the shoes and the 2 speed housing before installing it. I think it was on Nitrokb's site (that's down now). There may be a .pdf of it somewhere on the thread; I'll search and see. I did that when I built it and had zero problems, and I haven't tried the revised 2 speed. The only time I have stripped a gear is if the mesh was off or the motor wasn't tight. Other than that, check everything else mentioned above (bulkheads, swaybar, clutch bell) Using the thrust beating washer to help set the gap works wonders, too.
Measuring the shoes and the 2nd gear housing is new to me...If you can find that info it would greatly appreciated....
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:33 AM   #1961
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you want the 2 speed clutch to be .2-.3 smaller than the measured inside dia of the 2 speed housing.
Also the old small ball wears quick and gets a flat spot.
The rear sway tends to hit the 2 speed housing as well.
I learned on the kyosho evo thread to set my mesh really tight, just so it doesn't bind.

I have seen just as many strips on the other brands(serpent/kyosho/xray) as mugen and when I go look at the car I have always seen why it stripped. Usually people just have too much gap and then it hit's so hard it almost loses traction.


BOR: your fasst shut down, that's what happened? what battery are you running? Brad had that (thermal recv shutdown) and sent the recv in and they fixed.
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:15 AM   #1962
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you want the 2 speed clutch to be .2-.3 smaller than the measured inside dia of the 2 speed housing.
Also the old small ball wears quick and gets a flat spot.
The rear sway tends to hit the 2 speed housing as well.
I learned on the kyosho evo thread to set my mesh really tight, just so it doesn't bind.

I have seen just as many strips on the other brands(serpent/kyosho/xray) as mugen and when I go look at the car I have always seen why it stripped. Usually people just have too much gap and then it hit's so hard it almost loses traction.


BOR: your fasst shut down, that's what happened? what battery are you running? Brad had that (thermal recv shutdown) and sent the recv in and they fixed.
One thing I've found is that the MTx4 has a higher internal gear ratio than other models( more accelaration lower top-end). I've found during qualifing when I run smaller tires I need to compensate with gears too make sure my roll-out stays pretty decent. If I do not pay attention to my roll out this is when I start to strip gears. The car basically stays in 2nd gear too long and my engine flat lines. Hope this helps


Pass you soon...
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:43 PM   #1963
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One thing I've found is that the MTx4 has a higher internal gear ratio than other models( more accelaration lower top-end). I've found during qualifing when I run smaller tires I need to compensate with gears too make sure my roll-out stays pretty decent. If I do not pay attention to my roll out this is when I start to strip gears. The car basically stays in 2nd gear too long and my engine flat lines. Hope this helps


Pass you soon...

You need to watch roll out no matter what the internal ratio is....
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Old 08-26-2008, 02:15 PM   #1964
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You need to watch roll out no matter what the internal ratio is....

I do now! I never look twice at the Mugen roll-out chart. Now I look at it every qualifier!
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Old 08-26-2008, 02:27 PM   #1965
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I do now! I never look twice at the Mugen roll-out chart. Now I look at it every qualifier!


I just wanted to clarify that the engine reving higher has nothing to do with the internal ratio of the car but more with the final gearing you choose along with the tire diameter....

The only difference between a car with an internal ratio of 2.1 vs another car with 1.9 would be spur gear and pinion combo to acheive the same final drive ratio... The car with a lower internal ratio would have slower belt speed but at the expense of using sometimes too small of a pinion that wears out too fast especially for the first gear pinion.
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