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Old 06-22-2007, 02:56 AM   #181
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To be quite honest I use a flat piece of meltica (just like tha Hudy board) just make sure it's flat. I've tried glass cutting boards until I checked and it was not flat. You can buy the hudy stickers as well to get the width right.
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Old 06-22-2007, 03:13 AM   #182
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To be quite honest I use a flat piece of meltica (just like tha Hudy board) just make sure it's flat. I've tried glass cutting boards until I checked and it was not flat. You can buy the hudy stickers as well to get the width right.

I think you mean melamine?
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Old 07-05-2007, 03:24 PM   #183
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How many of you MTX-4R owners have converted over to the optional 4mm chassis from mugen ?
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Old 07-05-2007, 03:34 PM   #184
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How many of you MTX-4R owners have converted over to the optional 4mm chassis from mugen ?
iv always run a 4mm chassis.
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:50 PM   #185
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Still waiting on the engine. It's been so popular, the hobby shop is out of stock. While I am waiting, I have a question, have any of you upgraded the shock towers to the 4mm version? Aside from additional crash protection, does it add anything to the stability of the car?

Also, is the clutch tool a need to have (will make your life a lot easier) or a nice to have (can live without it)
I would say nice to have. I have never used one before so it can't be something that you can't do without.

I told you that I have a brand new engine for sale. You are missing out on a lot of great racing!
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Old 07-05-2007, 05:04 PM   #186
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Thanks for the info. Another question, is there a significant difference between the Hudy and Integy set-up boards? I know there is a big difference between the two in price and I have no problem if the Hudy is really that much better
If you think that you might get into 1/8th scale later spend the little extra now and buy the 1/8th scale board. It gives alot more room now but you have to have the larger size for the 1/8th scale cars.
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:02 PM   #187
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Originally Posted by va_connoisseur View Post
Still waiting on the engine. It's been so popular, the hobby shop is out of stock. While I am waiting, I have a question, have any of you upgraded the shock towers to the 4mm version? Aside from additional crash protection, does it add anything to the stability of the car?

Also, is the clutch tool a need to have (will make your life a lot easier) or a nice to have (can live without it)
it adds to the stability.
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Old 07-06-2007, 04:52 AM   #188
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Default Stripping second gear syndrome fix...

Posted it on the plain MTX4 thread, but... if someone suffers from, this could be of help to you, fixed two cars in a row with that syndrome.

1. Disassemble your 2 speed assembly.
2. Remove the small balls that put the spacing of the shoes to the bell (see attachment, are marked in red)
3. Change the 3x5 grub screws by 3x8 grub screws and tighten it all down up to the metal piece that holds them.
4. If is scored, change too the T0233 piece for a brand new one.
5. Assemble and adjust the clearance of the 2 speed shoes (I adjust them at 0.2 in total, so this is 0.1mm on each shoe).

Last but not least, doble, triple, n-check that your engine is correctly attached to the chassis, who is parallel to the main shaft, that gear mesh is correct and you have a straight main shaft and your crankshaft isn't bent too.
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Mugen MTX-4R-esquema-cambio-mtx4.jpg  
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Old 07-06-2007, 05:36 AM   #189
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Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
Posted it on the plain MTX4 thread, but... if someone suffers from, this could be of help to you, fixed two cars in a row with that syndrome.

1. Disassemble your 2 speed assembly.
2. Remove the small balls that put the spacing of the shoes to the bell (see attachment, are marked in red)
3. Change the 3x5 grub screws by 3x8 grub screws and tighten it all down up to the metal piece that holds them.
4. If is scored, change too the T0233 piece for a brand new one.
5. Assemble and adjust the clearance of the 2 speed shoes (I adjust them at 0.2 in total, so this is 0.1mm on each shoe).

Last but not least, doble, triple, n-check that your engine is correctly attached to the chassis, who is parallel to the main shaft, that gear mesh is correct and you have a straight main shaft and your crankshaft isn't bent too.
you dont use the balls right.
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Old 07-06-2007, 07:08 AM   #190
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you dont use the balls right.
Yep... I don't use balls on my MTX-4 , assembled originally without balls (as I did on the MTX-3) and never caught on it until I did it a complete teardown summed to the fact I never stripped a 2nd gear and... voilá.
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Old 07-06-2007, 07:41 AM   #191
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Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
Posted it on the plain MTX4 thread, but... if someone suffers from, this could be of help to you, fixed two cars in a row with that syndrome.

1. Disassemble your 2 speed assembly.
2. Remove the small balls that put the spacing of the shoes to the bell (see attachment, are marked in red)
3. Change the 3x5 grub screws by 3x8 grub screws and tighten it all down up to the metal piece that holds them.
4. If is scored, change too the T0233 piece for a brand new one.
5. Assemble and adjust the clearance of the 2 speed shoes (I adjust them at 0.2 in total, so this is 0.1mm on each shoe).

Last but not least, doble, triple, n-check that your engine is correctly attached to the chassis, who is parallel to the main shaft, that gear mesh is correct and you have a straight main shaft and your crankshaft isn't bent too.

Not trying to bash you because you are trying to help and that's nice to see. But, let me say this without upseting you. I had the stripping problem and I tried your idea. I'm not sure if you told me or if I got it from someone else but I was frustrated and would of tried silly putty for a spur gear if someone said it worked. Anyway, after doing it exactly like you've shown here, I started getting stuck in 2nd gear (at least it didn't strip!). So, I changed my shift point and it was shifting, but early and hard. Well, a pro saw my frustration and was nice enough to ask to look at my 2 speed shoes and he noticed the missing balls and asked me about it. So, I explained and he took it apart, put it back to stock, adjusted everything, and it worked great. Until I stripped 2nd gear. The only thing left was the 4mm chassis so I decided to bite the bullet and buy one and (many races later) I haven't stripped a gear since.

Sorry for the long post.
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Old 07-06-2007, 09:09 AM   #192
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Anyway, after doing it exactly like you've shown here, I started getting stuck in 2nd gear (at least it didn't strip!). So, I changed my shift point and it was shifting, but early and hard. Well, a pro saw my frustration and was nice enough to ask to look at my 2 speed shoes and he noticed the missing balls and asked me about it. So, I explained and he took it apart, put it back to stock, adjusted everything, and it worked great. Until I stripped 2nd gear. The only thing left was the 4mm chassis so I decided to bite the bullet and buy one and (many races later) I haven't stripped a gear since.
If you still stripe 2nd gears after this, the main problem resides on the one-way bearing of the 1st gear, clean it and lube it with a suitable oil (no. Plain bearing oil doesn't work - the Serpent one-way oil is the best I've found in many years).

Believe me. If after this you still strip gears is caused by the one-way bearing of the first.

The balls included on the 2nd gear assembly are too hard and they start scoring the metal piece where they ride, they start doing a channel and it get more movement until a moment you have a nice ball race on the metal and they allow to twist.

I'm not using the 4mm chassis and my MTX-4 has more than 50 litres of fuel thru it. Only broke a spur gear and was because I rushed and didn't tightened the engine mounts and it moved. I'm still pending on stripping a 2nd spur gear, 50 litres after their bride run.

BTW: If you were shifting early and abruptly was just because you have adjusted too soft the springs that go on the side of the shoes and abruptly because you left too much gap, as much gap you leave between the shoes and the bell, the more abrupt, may be cool but the transmission gets an unnecesary pounding. My shifts are firm but not abrupt, it's just a matter of spring tension on the shoes and gap.
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:10 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
Posted it on the plain MTX4 thread, but... if someone suffers from, this could be of help to you, fixed two cars in a row with that syndrome.

1. Disassemble your 2 speed assembly.
2. Remove the small balls that put the spacing of the shoes to the bell (see attachment, are marked in red)
3. Change the 3x5 grub screws by 3x8 grub screws and tighten it all down up to the metal piece that holds them.
4. If is scored, change too the T0233 piece for a brand new one.
5. Assemble and adjust the clearance of the 2 speed shoes (I adjust them at 0.2 in total, so this is 0.1mm on each shoe).

Last but not least, doble, triple, n-check that your engine is correctly attached to the chassis, who is parallel to the main shaft, that gear mesh is correct and you have a straight main shaft and your crankshaft isn't bent too.
ehem.... I think this was my idea ..... anyone can check my original post in mtx3 and mtx4 thread. I think it should be 3x10mm dremel to 9mm.

BTW, stripping gear syndrome is nothing to do with 2 speed clutch.

Stripping gears in mtx4 are cause by one or more factors like :

1. clutch bell is touching the 2nd gear housing
2. 2nd gear housing is touching the plastic bar that holds rear bulkhead to upper deck
3. weak rear bulkheads ( probable twisting under stress )
4. Engine mounting shift
5. 2nd gear housing is touching the rear stabiliser.
6. wobble in clutch bell <--- hardly but plausible.

When all the above factors are exist, then a stripping gear will most likely to happen.

Solutions for each of the above problem :
1. Use bigger pinions by 1 tooth for 1st and 2nd gear
2. Add 0.3mm shim between the bearing and the pin on the main pulley shaft
3. Use longer screws like 3x10mm or 3x12mm ( use toothpick to measure depth ) for super holding the rear bulkheads against impact, twist and engine heat.
4. Use 1 piece engine mounting and/or use longer screws 3x10mm
5. Use blade type rear stabiliser, or you use longer plastic ball connectors.
6. Make sure the bearings are put deep inside the clutchbell, and the bearings are in good conditions.
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:39 AM   #194
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ehem.... I think this was my idea ..... anyone can check my original post in mtx3 and mtx4 thread. I think it should be 3x10mm dremel to 9mm.
Hey asw... relax, didn't asked for the authority of this, if you look, I saw I did on my MTX3, so is much possible that I read it from you. On those days, were too much chit-chat sessions with Manti, Data and others that populated the MTX3 thread.

Did it on the 3 and since it worked me well, did it on the 4 too and 50 litres of fuel after, only one spur has been stripped and since seems a cyclic thing that arises on the threads, just wanted to post it as a reference too.
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Old 07-06-2007, 07:33 PM   #195
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Quote:
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How many of you MTX-4R owners have converted over to the optional 4mm chassis from mugen ?
I run the 3racing chassis , cheaper , heavier , lower cg. Works like a charm.
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