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Old 07-25-2008, 04:10 AM   #1816
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Also looking at the new 2 speed the only thing i can see is it has bigger balls, now if someone was smart and cluey they just might be able to enlarge the ball hole to take the larger balls without the expence of buy the new 2 speed everything else is the same
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Old 07-25-2008, 11:44 AM   #1817
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the pics of the nt1 box are in the mtx4 thread not the mtx4r thread...

the box seals up the recv and keeps the wires neat.

I drilled holes in the box to match the top deck holes and bolted the lid to the top deck
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:51 PM   #1818
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well I finallt got the new updated spur gear, Hopefully that will help with the problem
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:31 PM   #1819
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Hey peoples.... I have just noticed a rattle coming from my fuel tank when i shake it.......Down near the fuel outlet. Just wondering if its normal or something has come loose?

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Old 07-30-2008, 07:22 AM   #1820
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Well I was very lucky (SO I thought) to have been spared of the gear stripping disease until a race two weeks ago. Well I ended up missing two qualifiers and the B main because of this. I would strip about half way through the heat. I have read and re-read about this problem, and I thought I had it licked.

So I ordered new updated spurs, raced again, and bang I lost the second gear AGAIN!!.

I went back to my original thought and ordered the new second gear clutch shoe, and clutch springs, new set of steel gears, and off course a replacement for the updated spurs. I ordered them from Nitrohouse, you just have to order the spurs and gears online, then call and have the two speed shoes and springs added to your order. They do not post the parts online.

Hopefully this works. I will post my results once I go out to the track again.

On a side note, I have a replacement engine to break in. My problem is the collets that I am using don't quite fit and my clutch end gap cannot be adjusted. Once I screw in the whole clutch set up, it just locks completely. I need a few millimiters of space behind the flywheel to get things to fit properly. I took off the spacer so I am working with jsut the collet.

Can anyone recomend me a collet to use ( Size and part number). I'm trying to install the OS Speed TZ.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:58 AM   #1821
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Default Front diff question

Sorry if this has already been covered (I'm sure it has in all these pages) but what's a good starting point for diff oils front and rear.
I've been using a front one-way with 30,000 oil in the rear diff. Everyone at my track, which is medium sized and technical so lots of braking, suggests going to a front diff.
Also, for anyone who has made this switch, what are your thoughts on the change in handling?

Thanks,
Jon
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Old 07-30-2008, 09:03 AM   #1822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
Sorry if this has already been covered (I'm sure it has in all these pages) but what's a good starting point for diff oils front and rear.
I've been using a front one-way with 30,000 oil in the rear diff. Everyone at my track, which is medium sized and technical so lots of braking, suggests going to a front diff.
Also, for anyone who has made this switch, what are your thoughts on the change in handling?

Thanks,
Jon
I am using 100K in the front and 20k in the rear.
I tried going up in the rear like 50k but the car was oversteering and it was undrivable for me.
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Old 07-30-2008, 09:17 AM   #1823
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If traction is good I would go with a spool up front. If not; I normally use 30K in the rear and 50K in the front. I only use a front diff when traction is low with alot of hard breaking sections.


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Old 07-30-2008, 09:30 AM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SasonRC View Post
Well I was very lucky (SO I thought) to have been spared of the gear stripping disease until a race two weeks ago. Well I ended up missing two qualifiers and the B main because of this. I would strip about half way through the heat. I have read and re-read about this problem, and I thought I had it licked.

So I ordered new updated spurs, raced again, and bang I lost the second gear AGAIN!!.

I went back to my original thought and ordered the new second gear clutch shoe, and clutch springs, new set of steel gears, and off course a replacement for the updated spurs. I ordered them from Nitrohouse, you just have to order the spurs and gears online, then call and have the two speed shoes and springs added to your order. They do not post the parts online.

Hopefully this works. I will post my results once I go out to the track again.

On a side note, I have a replacement engine to break in. My problem is the collets that I am using don't quite fit and my clutch end gap cannot be adjusted. Once I screw in the whole clutch set up, it just locks completely. I need a few millimiters of space behind the flywheel to get things to fit properly. I took off the spacer so I am working with jsut the collet.

Can anyone recomend me a collet to use ( Size and part number). I'm trying to install the OS Speed TZ.
Replace the clutch bearings, they can be a source of the problem too...
Was going to say to clean the 2 speed shoes, i mean take them apart and clean them thoroughly, but since your getting a new one, no point. Try using Serpent's diff balls instead of the small ball that mugen's shoes have. Make sure you have tighten the screws the same on both sides... And also make sure the gap between the shoes and the housing is kept to a minimum... Good luck.
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:54 PM   #1825
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Any one have any thoughts on the items listed with JP?? Here is a link to there site.

http://www.jpracing.com/en/products/...ns.php?cat=MTX
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Old 08-01-2008, 04:26 PM   #1826
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looks like good stuff, probably milled like kawahara parts. looks to be lighter tho
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Old 08-01-2008, 05:45 PM   #1827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH View Post
Any one have any thoughts on the items listed with JP?? Here is a link to there site.

http://www.jpracing.com/en/products/...ns.php?cat=MTX
I'd just go with kawahara parts, look for the link on mugenracing.com....

as for the JP:

front belt block:needs locknut for battery plate mount, kawahara is threaded

center radio support: same as above, needs locknuts:kawahara is two piece for cooling

top brace: metal bends, kawahara is CF

front upper arm mount: only one setting: kawahara has a set with stock plus 2 other mount holes

alum clutch stuff: stay away from alum in clutch area.....
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Old 08-01-2008, 06:08 PM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
I'd just go with kawahara parts, look for the link on mugenracing.com....

as for the JP:

front belt block:needs locknut for battery plate mount, kawahara is threaded

center radio support: same as above, needs locknuts:kawahara is two piece for cooling

top brace: metal bends, kawahara is CF

front upper arm mount: only one setting: kawahara has a set with stock plus 2 other mount holes

alum clutch stuff: stay away from alum in clutch area.....
That is the kind of answer I was looking for, you gave good reasons to me as to why I should stay with is known to be some of the best hop up parts on the market.

Thanks
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Old 08-01-2008, 07:40 PM   #1829
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If its not really needed, dont get it... Especially if it has a JP name... From just having that name, price goes up about 20% in my experience... I bought a JP spring that was about $20-25... Then the same spring under the Mugen name was about $8-10
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Old 08-02-2008, 02:02 AM   #1830
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Default Building MTX4-R!

Hi

I am in the process of building my Mugen MTX4-R and have a few questions!

1/ How long should the front and rear shocks be? I have searched high and dry in the manual and it is not listed at all. I want to try and reduce change of tweak!

2/ What about the distance for the pivot ball between the knucke and the arms for both front and rear for the wheel track?

Also, for the servo horns do i need anything special? Or could i use some from another kit?

Thanks in advance and i look forward to your assistence!

RB_Racer
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