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Old 05-29-2007, 09:00 AM   #151
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This is what I was leaning towards (BMW M3 by HPI ). Are the problems with HPI bodies the durability or aerodynamics?

I hear a lot about the Stratus 3.1 having a stable, neutral driving response.
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Old 05-29-2007, 09:02 AM   #152
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durability they are real thin and crack easy
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Old 05-29-2007, 09:08 AM   #153
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I think durability is about the same. The problem is the aerodynamics or handling , any of those sport bodies are way sub par to any of the newer touring bodies.

Stratus 3.1
Parma Type-M
Mazda 6
Accord Euro-R

These bodies will way out perform the m3 and the more realisitic car type bodies from hpi. Youll find your car loosing control and not having as much grip and being harder to control all around.
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Old 05-29-2007, 10:39 AM   #154
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dun forget about what Fukuda used at brisbane world championship; Kawahara IS250 body. for me, i get a more responsive feel to the car compared to the stratus 3.1. my opinion. heh
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:26 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by va_connoisseur
I was finishing the front end assembly tonight and ran into a couple of issues. The front anti-roll bar appears to be binding/misaligned. Note the photo, the right side pertrudes out while the left side if flush





And now it appears the adjustment screws on the bottom have stripped because I cannot back them out. Any suggestions?

Also, are the pillow balls supposed to be difficult to screw into the upper and lower A-Arm? I could only get them about halfway before it felt like applying more pressure would cause something to strip. I check the alignment and they appear to be going in straight. Thanks in advance for help and suggestions.
You connect both stabiliser rods too close. They will bind when you up and down the suspension arms. The best way to set the stabiliser rods is by removing the grub screws ( that tighten the rods ). Make both connection tight at first and wiggle the suspension arms up & down couple of times until the bind feeling is gone. After that, you lock that position with the grub screws. Longer grub screws are even better to lock the rods against vibration and thread damaged.
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:30 AM   #156
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I like this one the best
That's cool choice.

VA : you should get that body instead of M3. ,,,,,,,,,,, nevertheless it's up to you. If you want to race your MTX4-R, I suggest buy the above body or Mazda 6. If you drive for fun, then it's really up to you. Toyota Supra or Nissan GTR will be good looking.
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:41 AM   #157
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ASW - thanks for the advice. I am looking to race sportsman class so I will be going with one of the better performing bodies (Stratus 3.1 or Mazda6). I'll get some of the HPI shells to paint up and photograph.
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Old 05-30-2007, 09:47 AM   #158
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Default Front end with shocks. Is roll bar correct?

OK. Finished the front end, and with the help/suggestions here, got the roll bar binding issue fixed.

Suspension moves freely now. I have 5mm of pre-load on the front shock and 6mm on the rear. All suspension components, front and rear, move freely.
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Old 05-30-2007, 02:21 PM   #159
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Have you adjusted your downstops/droop yet which is why your roll bar is on an angle. You've probably got about 8mm ride hight with the springs wound that far down. From memory the 5mm and 6mm is ride hight which is mesured with wheels on. You should have got a setup sheet with the kit it's a good place to start.
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Old 05-30-2007, 02:47 PM   #160
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Good point. I should have put the wheels on. Slipped my mind. Will give it another shot, this evening. I see it's the little things with these cars. Going from off-road MTs to these guys are going to be an adjustment. The devil is in the details.
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Old 05-30-2007, 08:08 PM   #161
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Default Gear Question

I raced mine in the Fireball Classic last weekend. I ended up second in the intermediat class but I stripped 2nd gear about 50 laps into it and that really put a damper on my race. I stripped 2nd gear twice. The first time I had the backlash to loose but the 2nd time I really thought it was set correctly. Is there anything special on setting the backlash for the gears?
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Old 05-30-2007, 08:37 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfl232
I raced mine in the Fireball Classic last weekend. I ended up second in the intermediat class but I stripped 2nd gear about 50 laps into it and that really put a damper on my race. I stripped 2nd gear twice. The first time I had the backlash to loose but the 2nd time I really thought it was set correctly. Is there anything special on setting the backlash for the gears?
My MTX-4 Web site has a section on stripping gears. Perhaps you might some helpful information there.
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Old 05-31-2007, 12:42 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
My MTX-4 Web site has a section on stripping gears. Perhaps you might some helpful information there.
good website mate, we need more blokes like you in the hobby
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Old 05-31-2007, 08:57 AM   #164
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Thanks
I'll give the remove the first gear and setting mesh with the second gear a shot. I was looking at the car trying to figure out a tool I could make so I could "push" the engine evenly on the chassi just to keep the gear mesh square.

PS I love the way this car handles. With a out of the box set up I matched my previous best lap time with the NTC3.
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Old 06-05-2007, 05:28 AM   #165
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Default One-piece motor mounts

I have been reading about the second gear stripping problem and I wonder if a one piece motor mount would help. This should help keep the engine mounted more rigidly to the chassis as well as ensuring proper alignment. Any thought? I'm considering purchasing one along with my engine. Thanks.


=====================================


Just finished reading the MTX-4 section on www.nitrokb.com (Great site rmd), looks like I will be putting in an order for a one-piece engine mount

Last edited by va_connoisseur; 06-05-2007 at 05:32 AM. Reason: Did not read nitrokb.com before posting
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