Mugen MTX-4R


Old 06-02-2008, 09:11 AM
  #1591  
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kyosho has 5x7 shims, they come in .1 .2 and .3 thick
as long as you use this to space the 5x8 bearings it will be fine!
serpent and xray have easy instructions on how to assemble properly
the centax and also the theory regarding the effects of gap, endplay, tension
shoe, and weights!
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:06 AM
  #1592  
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I also use the kyosho shims for this. They work great and come in the exact sizes you need.
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:24 AM
  #1593  
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Originally Posted by JetMD View Post
I also use the kyosho shims for this. They work great and come in the exact sizes you need.
You got a part number for the Kyosho shims ?

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
You got a part number for the Kyosho shims ?

Thanks
96643

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=428
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MTX-4R-kyo96641.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2008, 12:19 PM
  #1595  
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I'm actually using a 2mm thick 5x7 Schumacher spacer, that's used in their touring car hubs between wheel bearings and then I have to add some 0.1mm shims to get it perfect. Since I put the shims on the flywheel side of the 2mm spacer, they don't have to be small OD and I use normal clutch shims for that.
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Old 06-02-2008, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by olev View Post
I'm actually using a 2mm thick 5x7 Schumacher spacer, that's used in their touring car hubs between wheel bearings and then I have to add some 0.1mm shims to get it perfect. Since I put the shims on the flywheel side of the 2mm spacer, they don't have to be small OD and I use normal clutch shims for that.
I like this solution ! I am pretty sure I have a similar 2mm shim in my spare parts.
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Old 06-02-2008, 01:47 PM
  #1597  
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Originally Posted by neltime64 View Post
Those are the ones I use. Didn't know the part number though. Need some more for a 1:8 that I just got.
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:43 PM
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i was showed by a good man to use the thrust bearing shim, is has worked for me. i believe it does translate into more heat build up in the bearing tho. because the bearings seem to need more maint. and replacing

thats just my 2 cent
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Old 06-02-2008, 05:39 PM
  #1599  
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Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
I like this solution ! I am pretty sure I have a similar 2mm shim in my spare parts.
Inside start with 1.18 thrust bearing shim,then just add smaller shims untill endgap is0.10, remember inside shims change only endgap not clutchgap,to get clutchgap take all iside bearings and shims out.Put bell and thrustbearing on onlythen measure gap holding bell against clutch shoe, say gap is0.90 then add 0.20 shims this will give you 0.70 clutch gap, then its just testing spring nut to determain engagement smoothness or sudden. Easy Peasy (NOT)
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:44 AM
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Is the NitroKB site ever coming back????

Last edited by lil-bump; 06-04-2008 at 05:47 AM.
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Gseventeen View Post
Inside start with 1.18 thrust bearing shim,then just add smaller shims untill endgap is0.10, remember inside shims change only endgap not clutchgap,to get clutchgap take all iside bearings and shims out.Put bell and thrustbearing on onlythen measure gap holding bell against clutch shoe, say gap is0.90 then add 0.20 shims this will give you 0.70 clutch gap, then its just testing spring nut to determain engagement smoothness or sudden. Easy Peasy (NOT)

dead set, stop jibbering and get a NT1!
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Gseventeen View Post
Inside start with 1.18 thrust bearing shim,then just add smaller shims untill endgap is0.10, remember inside shims change only endgap not clutchgap,to get clutchgap take all iside bearings and shims out.Put bell and thrustbearing on onlythen measure gap holding bell against clutch shoe, say gap is0.90 then add 0.20 shims this will give you 0.70 clutch gap, then its just testing spring nut to determain engagement smoothness or sudden. Easy Peasy (NOT)

Great reply ! My problem was that I was trying to get a GAP of .5mm without removing the endgap shims !!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:21 AM
  #1603  
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Originally Posted by Gseventeen View Post
Inside start with 1.18 thrust bearing shim,then just add smaller shims untill endgap is0.10, remember inside shims change only endgap not clutchgap,to get clutchgap take all iside bearings and shims out.Put bell and thrustbearing on onlythen measure gap holding bell against clutch shoe, say gap is0.90 then add 0.20 shims this will give you 0.70 clutch gap, then its just testing spring nut to determain engagement smoothness or sudden. Easy Peasy (NOT)
Do you use the out side bearing, the one by the thrust bearing when setting clutch gap?

Also are the bearing 5x8x2.5

Last edited by nitrobeast; 06-04-2008 at 04:33 AM. Reason: edit
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:08 PM
  #1604  
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Do you use the out side bearing, the one by the thrust bearing when setting clutch gap?

Also are the bearing 5x8x2.5
Thats a double YES!!!
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
dead set, stop jibbering and get a NT1!
LISTEN VADER!!that so called jibber is straight out of the(DARKSIDE) emanual OOPS!!!
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