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Old 05-23-2007, 10:11 PM   #136
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The anti-roll bars are binding because you pushed them in to far. If you push the ball in to far when the bars is at an angle, you wont be able to straighten them.

The hole size for the adjustment screws is very small, as is the thread on the grub screws. You need to be very careful when you tighten them. You could look at the ali. ones as replacement parts.
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:31 AM   #137
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Thanks, I will see if I can back the roll bar out some. Also, did you mean Titanium screw set (#T0810)? Is the SK 3x5 set screw (#B0671) included in this set? I checked the website but did not see a listing of included screws.

Also, screwing the pillow ball (D0105R) into the lower arm is tight. Any suggestions on making that work better/easier? I do not want to strip the head so I backed it out.
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:29 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by va_connoisseur
Also, screwing the pillow ball (D0105R) into the lower arm is tight. Any suggestions on making that work better/easier? I do not want to strip the head so I backed it out.
This is my suggestion:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...&postcount=834
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Old 05-24-2007, 11:49 AM   #139
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Like they say, practice makes perfect. I will give it a crack tonight, it I can't get them to work, I will just build the turnbuckles and wait until after the holiday. Need to update the web site anyway so it's all gravy.
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:53 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I Dont think he is refering to the uprights although they do take some care for the first time. You are not trying to screw them in all the way by any chance for instance ours are about 10mm from the upright to the A Arm on the front to get 199mm track width.

Also before adjusting your front antiroll bar get the droop right as when the droop screws are backed right out the antiroll will be quite away apart.
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:09 PM   #141
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Cool. I believe I have it straight now. I completed the front end and got the lower A-arms installed on the rear, for pics check here, Goto Day Three under Building Khaos

Went over the entire front end again, checked all screws, got everything on the front end setup per the spec sheet. Now I'll tackle the back end after Memorial Day.
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Old 05-25-2007, 01:46 AM   #142
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va_connoisseur: Does the MTX-4R kit really come with all three front diff options? The oneway fron is lockable to a solid that I know but is there a gear diff for the front also?

Reason for asking is that I'm setting up my to buy list on a MTX-4R and right now I have extras for building a fron gear diff but I may be able to remove all that.
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Old 05-25-2007, 02:42 AM   #143
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It doesnt come with everything needed to make a front gear diff, only the diff cases, basically you will need all the gear internals and the drive cups.
The kit only has the option of the front one way or the spool.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:42 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-SPEC
Hi All

What are you ozzy guy's paying for your MTX4-R kit's ??????????

Also What price are you guy's that are running Ninja MR12-T01 paying for them ???????

Thanks
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I just ordered my MTX4r for AUD$509 delivered
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:15 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb
I just ordered my MTX4r for AUD$509 delivered
Not bad..... about 420 usd.
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Old 05-29-2007, 05:36 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb
I just ordered my MTX4r for AUD$509 delivered
Yeah, it's around $400 - $420 at most LHS. What bodies are most of you guys running?
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Old 05-29-2007, 06:53 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by va_connoisseur
What bodies are most of you guys running?
I like this one the best
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Old 05-29-2007, 06:56 AM   #148
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OK. I will take a look. I am close to the end of the build and have to decide on a body for competition. I think most people at the track run the Madza6 (long, sweeping track). I have a podium body (Nissan Altima) but for the track I wanted to run something different. Is Protoform the leader in competition bodies? What about some of the bodies from HPI? I could not determine if they were ROAR approved or not. Thanks.
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:01 AM   #149
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I would stay clear of the HPI bodies they seem to not last very long before they are stuffed, protoform make top quality as so blitz/titan bodys are really good as well.
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Last edited by Nitro$junkie; 05-29-2007 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:21 AM   #150
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You're most likely best getting a mazda or stratos as these are good bodies!
Stratos will be more nutral handling, while the mazda will be a bit twitchier to drive in comparison.
& ditto on the hpi bodies!
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