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Old 04-03-2003, 08:02 PM   #16
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ok thanks for the replys guys.

ive decided to get a protoform/proline stratus 2.1 200mm.
Just wondering does tamiya make 200mm bobies? I' want the supra castrol.

Final question, has anyone ever seem a ae-86/sprinter for 1/10 200mm?
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Old 04-03-2003, 08:04 PM   #17
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I want the tamiya supra, because apparently they have the best detailing. (i don't think i will be using the tamiya shell for playing with, more just displaying)
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Old 04-03-2003, 09:30 PM   #18
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personally, im gonna go bolink GT40 when i start racing

its the best looking body(opinion) and its so low fitting its gonn have some areodynamic values

i checkd out the proline GT40...junk i bought it and it had horrid detail on the decals and it sat way to high to be a true 40


plus its the closest thing to a fully aerodynamic body like you see on alotta .21 serpents
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Old 04-03-2003, 10:57 PM   #19
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Something that Boomer had found to be very beneficial a few years ago with the Andy's bodys and most bodys in fact was to purchase some drywall tape at Home Depot and run a strip inside the front fender and take some shoo goo and spread some shoo goo over the dry wall tape.

We all started doing it shortly after. It strengthens the front end immensely and pretty much doesn't allow the front end to crack. The other spots we did this too was on the inside top of the front wheel wells.

If done correctly, the weight increase isn't noticeable in that it doesn't affect the performance or handling any...but it sure saves the headache and time of painting new bodies.

The dry wall tape is nothing more that a yellow kinda screenish looking roll.


Last edited by RedScorp; 04-04-2003 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 04-04-2003, 12:54 AM   #20
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I use the body tape offered by companies such as Duratrax, as opposed to drywall tape. There, however, is a very high likelyhood that they are the same thing. Before I apply them, I cut them into slightly slimmer strips, because for touring car bodies, the mesh tape is just too wide to get aligned properly, in most areas. In thinner strips, the tape is easier to use and easier to properly apply. If you don't apply the stuff right, it will make no difference, as the shoo-goo will get ripped off with the paint too.

I think the weight difference, it is noticeable; but it does not affect performance.

I agree that ths should be done to all nitro bodies.


AndrewRCman,
the GT40 body doesn't really work too well for touring cars. It isn't going to make your car suck horribly (if the car was good before), but the GT40 definitely isn't as good as more conventional bodies.
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:32 AM   #21
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on some of my old bodies i put shoe goo on the inside but i didnt use any tape

most of the time it worked really well

but sometimes the shoe goo by itself would eat some paints

so i stopped using it
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Old 04-04-2003, 11:34 AM   #22
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I heard shoe goo works well also. However i tried JB weld on my benz body for my nrs4. Doesnt work worth a crap. Just cracks off.
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Old 04-04-2003, 03:56 PM   #23
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Im2lazy- you have seen bolinks GT40 right?? id say it be perfect for my driving, its sits low and is aerodynamic, and it has a very small spoiler(lip on the body) so i can power slide the car easier...touring just isnt fun if you cant take a corner with a fist full of throttle
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Old 04-04-2003, 05:17 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by AndrewtheRCman
Im2lazy- you have seen bolinks GT40 right?? id say it be perfect for my driving, its sits low and is aerodynamic, and it has a very small spoiler(lip on the body) so i can power slide the car easier...touring just isnt fun if you cant take a corner with a fist full of throttle

ironically, it seems that rally styled bodies seem to work well when you are a person who likes to slide around. This may just be a coincidence (rally lovers using rally bodies), but general race type bodies aren't good for sliding around corners. Once you start to slide too much, it is usually hard to recover.

All I can say is get a gt40 body and something like a wrx and compare the two.
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Old 04-04-2003, 05:25 PM   #25
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actually i dont like rally all, i just like stuff thats actually offroad and very litle suspension travel snt offroad for me

anyways we will see, i still think that bolink body will kick butt

and if it doesnt, i can always use it for the endurance race my LHS wants to put together......little mini Lemans
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by TheRagunCajun
I heard shoe goo works well also. However i tried JB weld on my benz body for my nrs4. Doesnt work worth a crap. Just cracks off.
Alone, shoe goo can allow rips quite easily still. Really sucks cause it rips off the paint while the crack is still there.

I also use shoe goo in places where a crash might cause a wheel to rub off some paint. Don't, however, put the shoo goo in a place that will rub the tires during normal running... a mistake I've made several times before.
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Old 04-08-2003, 10:14 AM   #27
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The shoe-goo and dry-wall tape did significantly increase weight.

I only use a small amount of shoe-goo in places that tend to be quick-cracking now and no tape. I find that if I don't hit as much stuff I don't need to reinforce the bodies as much.
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