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Old 03-27-2003, 03:50 PM   #1
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Default Flywheel, spur gear, air flow and other questions

I'm new to R/C nitro cars. Just got my first car monday and already I'm addicted to it. I have a few questions though if someone can help me out. I have a RTR Nitro RS4 3:

1. What is the proper maintenance of the engine? Should I do something after every run, every month, every six months, etc?

2. I was reading somewhere about rebuilding the engine. How often is this done and what is involved with rebuilding the engine?

3. I broke in my engine (with the body off) and today I put the body on to drive it around. I noticed light smoke comming from the engine. shortly afterward the engine didn't seem to respond to well so i figured that maybe it wasn't getting enough air to cool the engine so I immediately took off the body and stopped the engine. I have the lamborghini body and was wondering what everyone else does to make sure that the engine gets enough air to keep it cool.

4. Last question. After I went through a tank of gas i openened up the fuel lid and noticed smoke comming out of the container. What does that mean and is it normal?


one more thing:

Some of the screws vibrated loose and i had to unscrew the engine from the chassis to screw them back in. But ever since that i can't seem to align the fly wheel and the spur gear correctly. When i tighten the screws on the bottom of the chassis that i took out it seems as though the tighter i tighten them the harder it is to push the car. I noticed that if i put my finger on the engine and push it to the right its easier to push. If i dont tighten the screws all the way they vibrate off. I have tried thread lock. My main question is how do i get the flywheel and spur gear to flow freely while tightening the screws so that they dont vibrate off? Are there any tricks to it?
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Old 03-27-2003, 03:54 PM   #2
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1 use after run oil everytime you run your car

2 you really only rebuild your engine if you blow it

4 the smoke from the fuel tank is normal

and before you run your car take a screwdriver and tighten up any loose screws

hope this helps
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Old 03-27-2003, 04:15 PM   #3
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Thank you for the help. For the after run oil I see that some brands want you to put in where the glow plug goes while others want you to open up the carb full thottle and put a few drops in and then turn the engine a couple times. any difference in the two?


Any one know how i can fix my spur gear and flywheel?
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Old 03-27-2003, 04:30 PM   #4
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I wouldn't use the type that you put down the carb, it might eat away at the seals and your engine will then leak/run crappy. I would get the type where you put it where the glow plug goes. Good luck.
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Old 03-27-2003, 05:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by buggyman81 and EDITED by Popsracer

1) Use after run oil everytime when you are finished running your Car for the day. Equally important, is to run the Fuel tank dry and prop open the lid with the end of one of the lines. This prevents moisture from forming inside the tank.

2) A Engine will be VERY hard to start and just about impossible to keep running when it is wornout. Sometimes, replacing the Engine is better than rebuilding, depending on your budget.

3) The Instructions for the Car and the Body will have Directions and recommendations on how/where to cut out the Body for cooling. This is a MUST on a Nitro Car.

4) The smoke from the fuel tank is normal. It is from the Muffler pressure line.

5) Before you run your car take a screwdriver and tighten up any loose screws. Purchase a small tube of BLUE Threadlock a use a drop on all the screws that go into Metal parts.

hope this helps
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Old 03-27-2003, 06:26 PM   #6
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All of your suggestions will be VERY helpful to me. I appreciate them all. I will be sure to use them while running and taking care of my car. As soon as it stops raining, probably tomorrow, I'm going to run it again. thanx again
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Old 03-27-2003, 08:48 PM   #7
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Like they said, after run oil after your finished runnign for teh day. Run tank and lines dry.

Rebiuld when ya engine blows are you can get it to run because it is so worn out.

If your engine is smoeking, STOP because it is overheating. Adjust setting accordingly(richen).

Smoke from the tank is normal because the exaust gases go in there via your presure line. To cool off yoru engine more with the body on, Cut a 2" round hold in your front windshield and the same for the rear. You can also cut the whole rear out and the side windows. I dont understand yoru question but like pops said, get Blue lock tite. It is the medium strentgh version and works great. Dont make the mistake of using the red.....lets just say i have a rb c12 turbo with a cracked crank cuz of that red lock tite
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Old 03-27-2003, 09:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
My main question is how do i get the flywheel and spur gear to flow freely while tightening the screws so that they dont vibrate off? Are there any tricks to it?
You have to set the gear mesh. You have to set the gears loose enough that they dont bind, and tight enough that they dont strip. If you set them too loose they gears on the engine will strip the plastic gears on the main shaft, if you set them too tight they not only will bind the drivetrain like you descrived, but they will also get hot enough to melt the plastic gears and strip them. Not to mention it will also cause the engine to over-heat and cause too much friction and slow the car down.

Thanks,

Steven Muller
Maximum Performance Parts
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Old 03-27-2003, 09:05 PM   #9
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1. run your tank dry. if you have extra fuel, you can put it back in the fill bottle but i usually dump just in case it has contaminants. use after run oil if you are not planning to use your car within the week. you can get away with not using afterrun oil if you are gonna use the car in a few days. 3 to 4 drops in the carb and same for the glow plug hole. the afterrun is mainly to protect the engine bearings.

2. if you properly broke in your engine you can expect anywhere over 6 to 8 gallons worth. i've even heard of people running in the 12 gallon range and still make good power. if your engine loses compression or you break something, you'll need a rebuild.

3. for your body you'd need a hole in the windshield to properly cool the engine. a circular hole around 2 inch in diameter works best. dont hesitate to cut material from the body where the engine would be.

4. ragun cajun asnwered this best.

as for your engine alligning, i dont think HPI use separate engine mounts and the engine bolts directly onto the chassis. the stock setup does not allow you to change how the pinion alligns with the spur. i would check if you have a tweak in your chassis, as that may cause problems since you cannot change the allignment on the engine.
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Old 03-28-2003, 05:29 AM   #10
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You guys are great! thanx again for the help. I will start putting your suggestions to use asap.
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