R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-02-2003, 05:06 PM   #16
Tech Master
 
corvettecrazy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: north of philly, PA
Posts: 1,156
Send a message via AIM to corvettecrazy
Default

i got the one that is pictured in the first post if any of you are wondering.
corvettecrazy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2003, 05:07 PM   #17
Tech Master
 
corvettecrazy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: north of philly, PA
Posts: 1,156
Send a message via AIM to corvettecrazy
Default

wait wrong thread... this is the one I got it should be alright.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rodi_1732_10633012.jpg (16.4 KB, 150 views)
corvettecrazy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2003, 11:24 PM   #18
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

Jordan,

Every article, every manufacturer, every kit instructions will tell you to use after-run oil.

This is because Methanol (the base for our fuel) is hydroscopic - this means it attracts and absorbs moisture from anywhere it can find it.

As you probably know, moisture and aluminum don't mix well.
As you probably also know, moisture and brass and chrome don't mix well.

Since those are the three primary components that your motor is built from it would be a wise idea to coat the insides of your motor with something that will displace the methanol and, while your fuel has a small percentage of oil in it, it is primarily methanol.

Pretty much any after-run oil that is RED is made from Marvel. Marvel Mystery Oil is GREAT for after-run, for bearings or bushings or for shutting up your little brother/sister (okay, maybe not that). All it has to do for after-run is to coat things and prevent corrosion. That's what it's made for. And it's cheap.
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2003, 09:14 AM   #19
Tech Elite
 
popsracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: "Hot, Sunny Southern California"
Posts: 3,120
Default After Run oil

Guys;

One thing nobody has mentioned is, that the Caster Oil will tend to Gum-up (thicken) in a matter of time. This really plays havoc with the fuel passages in Carburetors.
After-run Oil will NOT Gum-up the engine, protects all of the Metals from corrosion/rust and acts as a start-up lube.

So ALWAYS run your Tank/Fuel lines dry and put 5-10 drops of A-R oil in the Carb, then turn the engine over a few seconds to distribute it around the insides. It is cheap insurance.
popsracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2003, 09:23 AM   #20
Registered User
 
OB42TC3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 417
Default

There's really good info on www.rcboat.com on this. I make my own from 50% Marvel and 50% WD40. This really does a good job of protecting the bearings, as you will read about at rcboat, in the past tech section. The over the shelf stuff doesn't penetrate as well because its too viscous, add some wd40 to it.
OB42TC3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2003, 09:37 AM   #21
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default Re: After Run oil

Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
Guys;

One thing nobody has mentioned is, that the Caster Oil will tend to Gum-up (thicken) in a matter of time. This really plays havoc with the fuel passages in Carburetors.
After-run Oil will NOT Gum-up the engine, protects all of the Metals from corrosion/rust and acts as a start-up lube.

So ALWAYS run your Tank/Fuel lines dry and put 5-10 drops of A-R oil in the Carb, then turn the engine over a few seconds to distribute it around the insides. It is cheap insurance.
Exactly!!!!

I have always popped off my glow plug and popped a few drops down there, but have started dropping a few down the carb too.



A problem with WD-40 is that it's a solvent more than a lubricant (look at the ingredients) so adding it to Marvel will tend to cut the marvel and reduce it's effectiveness as an oil.

but it's up to you. I have always found Marvel to be completely effective on its own.

Hmmmmm, I wonder how Prolong would work. . .
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2003, 11:32 AM   #22
Tech Chat Moderator
 
TheRagunCajun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Swamps of Louisiana
Posts: 266
Default

All i do is put some in the carb after i take the air filter off. Then i snip it over with my start box. No need to take my plug out my trusty STS engine.
__________________
Wow these forums have gotten popular since 02!
TheRagunCajun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2003, 12:07 PM   #23
Tech Elite
 
popsracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: "Hot, Sunny Southern California"
Posts: 3,120
Default Methods of adding After Run oil

Guys;

When I first got into Nitro and before I had a Starter Box, I used to put the A-R oil in the Carb and Glow Plug hole. Then pull the cord rapidly for a few seconds.

With a Starter Box, I just fill the Carb throat once or twice (depending on the size) and bump the engine over for a few seconds on the box. This is sufficient to bring the Oil up into the cylinder and through the bearings.

Some food for thought:

WD-40 will soften and swell rubber seals (makes good traction compound) and I have never had this problem with after-run oil by itself.
Tranny Fluid (as some have suggested) is NOT meant to be burned in a combustion chamber, while Marvel oil is.

Last edited by popsracer; 04-03-2003 at 12:18 PM.
popsracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2003, 01:46 PM   #24
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Melbourne, OZ
Posts: 1,059
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to JordanC
Default

Pulled the engine down, and i'm going to have to stand by my decision. It's spotless in there, and there's no corrosion at all. What types and % oil are you guys running, and what type (brand) nitro / meth do you use?
JordanC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2003, 09:53 AM   #25
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

You can believe what you like.

It sounds like you are truly running it completely dry. If so, there may not be any Nitro left in it. Cool.

I don't always run the motor completely out - like when I had some nice person introduce me to Mr. Wall halfway down the straight. I ended up with 3/4 tank of fuel left. I emptied out the tank and ran what was in the system - but to displace it afterwards I used some Marvel.

It also sounds like you always use brand new fuel. If so, there is little or no moisture in it. If it gets at all old there will inevitably be some moisture there.

Overall, it's far better to be safe than to be sorry.


(just as an aside - I use standard O'Donnell 20% - and I don't have any corrosion inside either)
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2003, 10:11 AM   #26
Regional Moderator
 
Darkseid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: At my computer, duh...
Posts: 9,033
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default Something funny...

In my first nitro engine...an OFNA .15....I treated that engine very harshly. Not because I intended to, but because I didn't know any better. I very rarely ran all the fuel out, and never used any after run oil in it. It wasn't even until the second year I had it that I even started putting WD-40 in it after a run. I used new or old fuel, it didn't matter. I never disassembled and cleaned it for proper winter storage either.

The funny thing is that when I pull it apart now,(its four years old now) there is no corrosion or anything bad happening inside. I ran standard Blue Thunder 20% through it and the engine would still work today if I actually used it. And for the Blue Thunder haters, no the inside components aren't faded blue either.

Now, I wouldn't try this with my current race engine , because I know better now. I now use Hobbico After Run Oil. But it just goes to show that these engines are tougher than we think. And something as simple as choosing a different form of post race moister proofing isn't likely to mean the difference between life and death for the engine.

Just a thought!
__________________
TLR 22...Tamiya F104...
Darkseid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2003, 04:53 PM   #27
Tech Master
 
patelladragger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,638
Send a message via AIM to patelladragger
Default

I think the key to the whole thing is where and how the engine is kept. If it is exposed to air and humidity and it is not treated with something it will rust due to the nitro. If it is kept sealed..i.e. a carb and exhaust plug, or with the pipe, glo plug and air filter fitted, then it's probably going to be ok with just the castor in the fuel. I use after run in a high dollar engine cause I don't want to take any chances, but I also agree with jordanC I have other engines that never seen a drop of after run and they look just as clean on the inside. In fact you can't tell the difference.
patelladragger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2003, 05:10 PM   #28
Tech Regular
 
nova racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Ypsilanti MI
Posts: 292
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by patelladragger
I think the key to the whole thing is where and how the engine is kept. If it is exposed to air and humidity and it is not treated with something it will rust due to the nitro. If it is kept sealed..i.e. a carb and exhaust plug, or with the pipe, glo plug and air filter fitted, then it's probably going to be ok with just the castor in the fuel. I use after run in a high dollar engine cause I don't want to take any chances, but I also agree with jordanC I have other engines that never seen a drop of after run and they look just as clean on the inside. In fact you can't tell the difference.
I 2nd that you should have seen the inside of my first nitro engine in my gp10 treated it like he// and it lasted a year and a half
nova racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2003, 06:57 PM   #29
Tech Elite
 
popsracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: "Hot, Sunny Southern California"
Posts: 3,120
Default After Run oil

Guys;

My very first R/C car was an Associated RC-200 1/8th scale Nitro pan car. 2wd, K&B Aero engine modified for car use. I left that sucker sit for about a month after running it one time and the insides of the engine were rusted solid. Luckily it wouldn't turn over, so I disassembled it and had to replace the crank (pitted badly) and bearings.
So I know personally that an Engine WILL rust internally if not protected someway and as expensive as engines are these days, I will always be safe by using after-run oil.
popsracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2003, 07:09 PM   #30
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: California
Posts: 152
Default

popsracer is totally right, i have done the same thing with my first car which was a hpi nitro mt rtr and i ran it 3 times, stopped running it cause i just got bored with it and i came back to it and i had to rebuild almost the whole engine
buggyman81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:14 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net