Dredd

That's what I was told by many people too. Set the car up neutral (basically book stock setup). Drive the car, learn the feel of the steering and the engine response. Then When you get more comfortable you will go faster and faster, taking turns harder and hitting the corners smoothly. When you taper off and don't go any faster then you can adjust one part of the car and observe how it handles. Maybe you go faster, maybe not. But you always have a baseline feel that way so you know your starting point.

I'm taking this advice and it's working wonderfully. Before I drive the car I know how the car felt on the stock neutral setup. Thus when something feels better and makes me get faster laps I know which direction to go for how I drive. If I go slower, I can always revert.

I guess the idea is that many people take a setup sheet from a top 10 driver and try to run it and can't go as fast. Then someone is faster and they use their setup and don't go as fast as them either. Point being, they never got used to the car for them and try to go with what feels good or works for someone else. This is ok, but I understand how sometimes one driver may not like the setup someone else TQs with.

afm

Absolutely right......and the I woke up...end of dream, back to real life...jajajaja

AFM

Rapid Roy

Yup, the most important part of the car is the nut behind the wheel.

Dredd

So anyway I think that if you give someone a Serpent 720, Mugen MTX-4, Kyosho VOne RRR WCE, Xray NT1, or Team Magic G4s and any available hop-ups (titanium etc) and give them adequate time to get accustiomed to the car and set it up for the track, that they will do well with it. It just takes time.

dr_catman

assuming they have hand eye coordination

and have played alot of playstation GT

Dredd

hrm...then why do I suck still?

The hardest thing for me I think is engine tuning. Hard to get it just right.

brc358

iTrader: (18)

Here is a perfect example
One of the sponsored racers at the track was running the Khyosho RRR, and runs in the expert class. He is extremely good and fast.
This year he switched, and drives for Serpent and runs both 10 and 1/8 scale.
He is as fast with these cars as he was with the Kyosho.
Like it was said in the ealier post, a good driver can take just about any car, set it uo for his driving, and be just as good as he was before.

dr_catman

The key phrase being the good driver will also know how to best setup, ie maximise the cars potential.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Dont worry about getting it perfect. Just tune it slightly rich if your unsure and make sure its finishing races and getting enough good power. After that you can just focus on the drive. Its much better and then once you get accustomed to the car , then its normally a better time to start tweaking the motor if you think power is holding you back.

afm

Which leads to something I've allways believed....all the top level cars from Mugen, Serpent, Kyosho, Team Magic and now XRAY are very good and capable cars with the right set-up....It's the driver who makes the difference. You can't go wrong buying any of those brands, it just depends on how good support you have in your area with the selected brand.

AFM

Dredd

I know the basics but when it performs well it idles high and then when I fix idle it has performance issues. I'm just not very good at it yet. I'll get it.

Serpentd

When it idles high, does it stay high or does it slow back down from anywhere between 3 to 15 seconds? If it stays high, it sounds as though your low speed needle is lean. If it idles high and then comes back down it's too rich on the lowend. This can get tricky sometimes.

An easy way to tell if your lean or rich on the low end setting is to pinch the fuel line an inch or so away from the carburator and listen to what the engine does in the next few secons. If it wants to die in the first 1-4 seconds or so you are lean. If it keeps idleing for over 7+ seconds then you are rich depending on how long it continues to idle. You should be able to pinch the fuel line and have it idle for about 5-6 seconds before it wants to die.

This method is just to get you close so that you are not adjusting you idle screw to compensate for say a rich mixture that makes your car idle high when you come in the pits. It's idleing high for awhile because it's burning off the extra fuel from the low end setting. After you get it close, then fine tune it with 1/16 or at the most 1/8th turn incriments. Make sure your high speed needle is adjusted properly first before you start tweaking the low end.

I'm not saying this is your problem, but something to consider. After it's tuned properly you should have a snappy punch and return to a normal idle every time. Good luck bro and I hope I didn't confuse you. Engine tuning takes patients when first learning and excperience all around to become effiecent at it. Take your time and ask others for assistance if your stumped. It can happen to even experienced racers. Keep us posted on how things are working out for you on your tuning. Later bro.

Dredd

Didn't want to turn this into a tuning help thread. Like I said I got the basics but it's always just a bit off from the perfect spot.

Anyway I think we can agree that the best car is only as good as the tuning, setup, and driver.

roadrage

iTrader: (14)

what really makes a car better is the driver.

dr_catman

Kinda like Earl...