After run oil?
#1
After run oil?
Where does this actaully go? Bit of a noobish question but it isnt in the manual!
Also is this a design fault in the HPI rs4 evo3:
the chassis has a hole for wat seems to cool the gears
but small stones allways flick up into the gears and get stuck!
ive put some tape over the holes and taht should work!
Also is this a design fault in the HPI rs4 evo3:
the chassis has a hole for wat seems to cool the gears
but small stones allways flick up into the gears and get stuck!
ive put some tape over the holes and taht should work!
#2
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by srowell3
Where does this actaully go? Bit of a noobish question but it isnt in the manual!
Also is this a design fault in the HPI rs4 evo3:
the chassis has a hole for wat seems to cool the gears
but small stones allways flick up into the gears and get stuck!
ive put some tape over the holes and taht should work!
Also is this a design fault in the HPI rs4 evo3:
the chassis has a hole for wat seems to cool the gears
but small stones allways flick up into the gears and get stuck!
ive put some tape over the holes and taht should work!
Last edited by Team Kamikaze; 01-30-2007 at 07:05 PM.
#3
Tech Addict
some people say W-40 is just as good as actual "after-run oil" and some people use mavel mystery oil. I haven't tried either of these 2 products during after run maintenance so I cannot comment. I would assume WD-40 would work ok because the lubricants do not evaporate quickly and it drives moisture away from the area contacted which is a good thing. I do not know if it will cause any harm or not so do not take me to sound like I'm advocating it's use.
#4
After run oil is a must for any alcohol burning engine. Everyone has heard rumors as to what you can use as a substitute, Marvel Mystery, automatic tranny fluid, wd-40... and others. WD-40 is not a good choice since it can easily attack the o-rings in the engine and make it more prone to air leaks.
But here's my view: If you spend even just a $100 on an engine, don't cheap out on real after run oil just to save $3!!!
But here's my view: If you spend even just a $100 on an engine, don't cheap out on real after run oil just to save $3!!!
#5
Tech Addict
sometime I'd like to know the actual chemicals in after-run oil. I've never seen a listing of what is inside that little bottle.
#6
I've been useing marvel mystery oil for the last 8 years with no issues ever since I was working in an emergency room and a ladt came in freaking out because her 4 year old drank a bottle of some red oil her older son left out. long story short the bottle was hobbico after run oil and the MSDS was for marvel mystery oil so since then I've been using MMO still on the same 5$ quart beats 3$+ for a few ounces.
#8
Originally Posted by regg151
I've been useing marvel mystery oil for the last 8 years with no issues ever since I was working in an emergency room and a ladt came in freaking out because her 4 year old drank a bottle of some red oil her older son left out. long story short the bottle was hobbico after run oil and the MSDS was for marvel mystery oil so since then I've been using MMO still on the same 5$ quart beats 3$+ for a few ounces.
#9
I just started using full synthetic 5w10 Mobil Oil. I had a few bearings go bad this past year using after-run oil. I don't run my engines at times up to 5 months at a time, and even with the After-run Oil or MMO, I was still getting surface rust on the crank and with that, I am sure the bearings were doing the same. Since I started using the synthetic (light) oil, I have not had any issues.
#11
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I just started using full synthetic 5w10 Mobil Oil. I had a few bearings go bad this past year using after-run oil. I don't run my engines at times up to 5 months at a time, and even with the After-run Oil or MMO, I was still getting surface rust on the crank and with that, I am sure the bearings were doing the same. Since I started using the synthetic (light) oil, I have not had any issues.
#12
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I just started using full synthetic 5w10 Mobil Oil. I had a few bearings go bad this past year using after-run oil. I don't run my engines at times up to 5 months at a time, and even with the After-run Oil or MMO, I was still getting surface rust on the crank and with that, I am sure the bearings were doing the same. Since I started using the synthetic (light) oil, I have not had any issues.
#13
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I just started using full synthetic 5w10 Mobil Oil. I had a few bearings go bad this past year using after-run oil. I don't run my engines at times up to 5 months at a time, and even with the After-run Oil or MMO, I was still getting surface rust on the crank and with that, I am sure the bearings were doing the same. Since I started using the synthetic (light) oil, I have not had any issues.
#14
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I just started using full synthetic 5w10 Mobil Oil. I had a few bearings go bad this past year using after-run oil. I don't run my engines at times up to 5 months at a time, and even with the After-run Oil or MMO, I was still getting surface rust on the crank and with that, I am sure the bearings were doing the same. Since I started using the synthetic (light) oil, I have not had any issues.
#15
I hadn't ran into a soot issue with the oil. Also, I hadn't noticed anything with the red putty in my engines either. I've been running the Fantini Max and Mega engines without any problems. I hadn't changed a plug in the Max motor for at least 4 weekends of racing. I do use JP engine polish to clean the engine after every weekend of racing. The engine I have now in the car has about 3 gallons of 30% race blend Sidewinder (10%oil) and it still sticks sometimes getting started.