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Old 03-18-2003, 06:44 PM   #16
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Corse-R and InitialD,

Thank you for the very infomative and helpful replies. I am set to break in my novarossi this week end. With the guide provided by Corse-R, I am confident that I will do well. Many thanks for your help guys. This is one thing I like about this hobby, SHARING INFORMATION. Unlike in a business where everyone hides their secret recipies for success. I will post the outcome after.

Keep on racing!!!!!
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Old 03-18-2003, 07:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Another one from RB Products website forum;

Low end needle controls acceleration from still to 5 feet out.
Mid needle controls acceleration from 5-25 feet.
Top needle from there on.

The relationship of the low and mid adjustment is what controls your fuel mixture at idle and near idle. If you screw one inwards you must screw the other outwards to compensate and keep the setting static.

The mid adjustment cannot affect the fuel flow by itself, all it can do is to affect the position into the carb venturi into which the fuel is introduced. It is a very subtle effect but it seems to be the closer to the middle you introduce the fuel the higher the fuel consumption and better "middle throttle" acceleration and punch. The further from the centre is better fuel consumption but a loss in "middle throttle" punch.


Hope this helps [/B]
hi initialD
im trying to run-in a rb engine, where u got the info on the needles, can u post the link?

thx
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Old 03-18-2003, 07:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by albertlam
Always hear many people say about the Mid Range needle, when you don't know how to tune it, don't touch it.

Then, how will you guy consider a person to know how to tune it? I'd like to learn how to tune this as well.
Some pros have stuck stickers on this 'needle' so that no one could possibly fool around with it... So once your a professional tuner, you'll find tuning the third needle cake... ( )... just don't touch it and save yourself headaches.
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Old 03-18-2003, 07:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Im2lazy
Some pros have stuck stickers on this 'needle' so that no one could possibly fool around with it... So once your a professional tuner, you'll find tuning the third needle cake... ( )... just don't touch it and save yourself headaches.
agreed...when I was first learning to tune a so-called "experienced" expert tuner jacked my engine up trying to tune it with the mid needle and he has been tuning engines 10 or 15 years...since then I never touch it and manage to get them right most of the time.
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Old 03-18-2003, 08:12 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
Corse-R,
Thanks for the reply once again. Now I have a better understanding on how I'm going to break-in the engine. Just one last question, one fast racer here in our track said that if you break-in the nova engine you should break it lean so you can race tune it and get its peak performance. I think its untrue because most of the basic break in procedures I read said that break in should always be rich. But is there such thing as break in lean? Thanks for your patience.

Why does he break it in lean? Because it strikes his fancy (and seems to work if he is a fast racer). When it comes to break-in, many people have many views. What ever you think is best, is what you should do. It doesn't make it right, or even wrong, but all of the current motor instructions that I have seen (with exception to the HPI 15fe) tell you to run-in the engine at differing rpms. In other words, not just idling, for even a couple of tanks. You should keep it rolling on the ground and run at varying throttle positions (or put together a break-in bench which no one does).

The writers of the instructions for your engine have broken-in hundreds, possibly thousands more engines than most of us have(between themselves), and have access to tools that I could never dream of using (flowmeter). Subsequently, I am inclined to believe them. From my experience of different methods, when you run-in an engine rich-as-a-dog, then it runs in a similar fashion to when it was broken in. If you run it in too lean, it runs a little too lean even when you have completed the break-in process.

The method that CorseR described is the more "conventional" way. It works for most people, but that method originated from techniques used to break-in ringed engines, which are quite a bit different from our taper-sealed engines.
I know the instructions are vague (and the translations are usually off on quite a few words) but they should still serve to you good basic outlines.
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Old 03-19-2003, 01:19 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by patelladragger
agreed...when I was first learning to tune a so-called "experienced" expert tuner jacked my engine up trying to tune it with the mid needle and he has been tuning engines 10 or 15 years...since then I never touch it and manage to get them right most of the time.
Correct. Still, when "shit happens" to the engine, I always go back to the stock settings i.e. 5 tunr out in the high end, 4 turns out on the low end and flat to the surface for the mid end brass needle. Then tune from there.
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Old 03-19-2003, 07:02 AM   #22
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Yeah! Those are some very useful information that you guys have shared with us. Thanks! Keep it goin'...
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Old 03-19-2003, 09:39 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
hi initialD
im trying to run-in a rb engine, where u got the info on the needles, can u post the link?

thx
Ummm, nobody answered you. Look here for default RB carb settings;

http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/faqrb/carbsetting.12.htm

The info I posted a few post ago are for fine tuning and tuning to performance. This is usually done after breaking in the engine. Do not use those methods during running in of your engine.

For running in your engine, you can use the method posted as a PDF file on the RB website. I have attached it for your convenience.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf instructions12.pdf (29.6 KB, 113 views)
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Old 03-19-2003, 09:42 AM   #24
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ahhhh, this page, been there b4, thx again
u got more infro or tips/tricks for our nitro???
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Old 03-20-2003, 04:35 PM   #25
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i guess i am lazy or maybe i just cant wait

i have had nova carbs come out the box with odd low speed needle settings one was only 3/4 turns out (glad i checked it)

my break-in is very simple

i will put some after run oil in them

turn my radio throttle epa to 1/2 of full throttle

start engine and drive immediately

after a min or a couple laps i check temp and tune toward a temp about 200F

i run 6-10 tanks at 200F and 1/2 throttle

MAKE CERTIAN THE PISTON IS NOT AT TOP DEAD CENTER WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING BETWEEN TANKS

after which i lean em out for better performance trying to keep temps down (240-260max) untill the engine gets quite a bit of fuel through them and piston no longer gets stuck anymore

ive found that with weather conditions here fully tuned engines run best at 260-290F but i am trying to tune by sight and sound more than by temp

the engines i have broken in this way have all been extremely fast previously i had 2 mt-12s the first i idled through many tanks before driving and another mt-12 i did this way the second engine was noticably faster
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Old 03-22-2003, 08:09 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Im2lazy

<SNIP>
From my experience of different methods, when you run-in an engine rich-as-a-dog, then it runs in a similar fashion to when it was broken in. If you run it in too lean, it runs a little too lean even when you have completed the break-in process.
<SNIP>
Im2lazy,
Could you explain the logic of this statement.
Surely the tune of the engine is determined by the needles, wheather it is run in or not.
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Old 03-22-2003, 04:07 PM   #27
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Default lean breakins

The guys that break there engines very lean probably dont even buy there own engines ,so i f some one is fronting the bill who cares
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Old 03-22-2003, 04:38 PM   #28
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I agree. Break an engine in too lean and it will run fast for about 2 or 3 months. Then the compression is guaranteed to drop and the engine will need a new piston and sleeve.

I have broke in many engines over the years. Always done it nice and slow and rich until the engine showed signs of wanting to go hard. Even then I hold back on the tuning and only adjust small amounts to nurture the engine more. I never use a temp gun either. They dont give a true reading of what the engine is actually doing anyway.

I can say without shame that my engines are always fast and will last anything up to 18months (maybe 24months) before the compression goes and they are all capable of winning races.
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Old 03-25-2003, 12:22 PM   #29
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Default Run in fuel

Just curious whether anyone uses a different OIL for run in.
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Old 03-25-2003, 02:15 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by BohBlesku
Just curious whether anyone uses a different OIL for run in.
Nope, you're fooling yourself, because the higher content of oil makes go cooler and you'll lean more and more. I prefeer to break-in my engines with the same fuel as they run: 8% straight of oil (almost all of oil is castor, the rest is synthetic - opposed as many fuelers predicate, just read the booket of your Novarossi engine), 16% nitro and 76% Methanol. Simple but true.

Break-in is a critical moment of the engine and how is made the break-in dictates the longevity and performance of the engine. So better to do slowly and with care.
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