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Old 02-01-2007, 11:55 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong
Mobil One 5w30 is as good as it gets. Don't waste you money on a tiny dropper bottle of the "magic" formula oil stuff. 90% of it is MMO anyways. Serpent one way lube is even MMO.... wow.... creative marketing there- charge $6 for .50c worth of MMO.
Even more of a rip off than that. Last I checked, Serpent one-way lube is not MMO but ATF. And that stuff is cheap!
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Old 02-01-2007, 01:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecleftone
But how about after u put after run oil... when u wanna start the engine again, how do u flush the after run oil out?
No need, just start her up... Give it a few mins to warm up before jumping on it...
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:34 AM   #33
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It is very interesting to read how many opinions there is about after run oil!

I have been using Pacer after run oil for a long time with great success (have picked up some rust when leaving a motor for 6 months closed with the glow plug in!).

BUT

i had a .21 motor laying in spares in a cardboard box on a shelve in my garage for more that 9 months. (Waiting on a replacement rod).

After reading this forum i went a checked the motor for rust etc.

Nothing at all! Only thing i did was to when i stripped it was to spray out with Buggy Blast and put a rag over the box and put i on the shelve!

So my theory from now on is:, once finish with racing, take the side plate of, spray it out and leave untill the next race!
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Old 02-10-2007, 08:14 PM   #34
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I'm a believer in MMO....opened up a motor that sat for three years and it looks like brand new inside.
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Old 02-10-2007, 08:27 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMcpot
I'm a believer in MMO....opened up a motor that sat for three years and it looks like brand new inside.
Sold!!!! I am trying Marvel mystery oil...
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Old 02-10-2007, 10:32 PM   #36
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I use Breakfree CLP gun oil to coat my engines during long term storage. The stuff keeps moisture out and it has a teflon additive that works pretty good! I used to get some rust on my cranks with aro but after switching to Breakfree the motors store well. On some motors I use the Hobbico aro but like someone else said bearings don't like that stuff.
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Old 02-10-2007, 10:38 PM   #37
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With all these home brew oils people are using , just remember that true aro will not foul up your glow plug when you goto fire up your motor.

These proven oils for one application of lubrication I gurantee none of them are meant to pass through a glow-plug. This oil is probably attaching itself to your glow-plug coil and pretty much ruin performance, until you buy a new plug. Which is costly.

A bottle of ARO costs nothing and many people offer it. Go with a big name..or name you can trust and be done with it. No reason to reinvent the wheel.

Also MMO might be in aro , but isnt it funny how everyone says its always mmo or something rebadged. Same color perhaps , but I wouldnt be so sure there just rebadging it all the time.

Peace of mind = buying the $5 dollar bottle of ARO thats going to last you so long youll probably throw the bottle away and buy a new one from being nasty rather than use it all.
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Old 02-10-2007, 11:33 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHETTOTEACHER
I use Breakfree CLP gun oil to coat my engines during long term storage.
You know i was involved with practical for 8 years before i sustained an injury that forced me to stop.

I used Breakfree CLP all the time and never thought to use it on a motor!

One thing that worries me is the teflon!

Do you flush the motor before running it?
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Old 02-11-2007, 08:10 AM   #39
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I used Breakfree on my motor bearings and it freed them up like crazy. It last for about a day. I coated a motor that I was not using during the summer. Later, I started it and it ran great! I just keep a light coating on the engine surfaces. I don't see any negitive effects on my engines. I don't flush the motor at all.
I store my other collection with Breakfree and have no rust or pitting. Think about it, both things are made of the same material. Breakfree works well.
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:04 AM   #40
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i guess it just mixes witht he fuel and comes out!
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:22 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
With all these home brew oils people are using , just remember that true aro will not foul up your glow plug when you goto fire up your motor.

These proven oils for one application of lubrication I gurantee none of them are meant to pass through a glow-plug. This oil is probably attaching itself to your glow-plug coil and pretty much ruin performance, until you buy a new plug. Which is costly.

A bottle of ARO costs nothing and many people offer it. Go with a big name..or name you can trust and be done with it. No reason to reinvent the wheel.

Also MMO might be in aro , but isnt it funny how everyone says its always mmo or something rebadged. Same color perhaps , but I wouldnt be so sure there just rebadging it all the time.

Peace of mind = buying the $5 dollar bottle of ARO thats going to last you so long youll probably throw the bottle away and buy a new one from being nasty rather than use it all.
I would too prefer to pay the few bucks for 50cc. After all if you have more what are you going to do with it.

One question if you do plan on leaving an engine on the shelf for a long time for whatever reason how should it be stored? Plug on or off, heat sink off....afterrun etc....
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Old 02-22-2007, 12:29 PM   #42
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it gets flushed out with the fuel! SO dont worry just satrt as normal
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Old 02-22-2007, 12:36 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_catman
I would too prefer to pay the few bucks for 50cc. After all if you have more what are you going to do with it.

One question if you do plan on leaving an engine on the shelf for a long time for whatever reason how should it be stored? Plug on or off, heat sink off....afterrun etc....
The only thing ive ever heard that made sense was to completely break it down and submerge it in oil. Otherwise I have completely no clue , other than run it sooner or later before its obsolete and or rusted. Another is if it does rust , you can simply polish that off.
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:51 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
The only thing ive ever heard that made sense was to completely break it down and submerge it in oil.
Kind a like a lab specimen in a jar ...hehehe
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