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Old 06-13-2007, 08:55 PM   #76
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.03 is a typo. In the Mugen manual it says to adjust endplay between .3-.5. The shims before the internal bearing keep the clutch shoe from dragging on the clutch bell.

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Old 06-14-2007, 01:50 AM   #77
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So if you have not "been there, done that" KEEP YOUR FINGERS OFF THE KEY BOARD.
Maybe you should try to keep your fingers from the capslock....
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Old 06-14-2007, 05:33 AM   #78
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Let's keep the discussion friendly. Good article on Mike's settings any on-road competition RC'er can appreciate. Like that quote "There are no secrets, just experience." Would definitely agree with that.
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:30 PM   #79
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I don't get it, i tried this with an kyosho clutch and i spaced the bell away with spacers, but when i put the bearings and bell on i cant move the bell forward 0.3mm so i cant even put shims in as suggested. Did i make a mistake or is a kyosho clutch much different? (Looks quite the same to me.)
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Old 06-16-2007, 09:56 AM   #80
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I have not built a Kyosho clutch. When you start stacking the shims between the flywheel nut and the rear bearing it should be done one shim at a time. Lightly push the bell towards the clutch and twist if you feel it drag add another shim. Continue this until you find adding one shim allows the bell not to drag and removing that shim allows it to drag. Add that shim and stop there your done. Do measure the thickness of the shims as Mugens are .05, .1 and .3.
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:02 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
The clutch shims are in .1mm increments how can you set it at .03mm. Thats 1/3 the thickness of one shim?
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
I have not built a Kyosho clutch. When you start stacking the shims between the flywheel nut and the rear bearing it should be done one shim at a time. Lightly push the bell towards the clutch and twist if you feel it drag add another shim. Continue this until you find adding one shim allows the bell not to drag and removing that shim allows it to drag. Add that shim and stop there your done. Do measure the thickness of the shims as Mugens are .05, .1 and .3.
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:57 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by Ice_nl View Post
I don't get it, i tried this with an kyosho clutch and i spaced the bell away with spacers, but when i put the bearings and bell on i cant move the bell forward 0.3mm so i cant even put shims in as suggested. Did i make a mistake or is a kyosho clutch much different? (Looks quite the same to me.)
It's a centax clutch alright, but the design is different. Mugen has two bearings on the inside of the clutch bell and one on the outside. Also, the Mugen thrust bearing sticks out the top of the clutch bell, whereas the Kyosho thrust bearing remain inside.

How much gap is there between the flywheel and crankcase? Do you have the washer there? On my TZ, I had to reduce the height of the collet so that I would have adequate clearance between the clutch bell and the clutch shoe.

0.3mm works great on the Mugen, but I'm not sure how well it works in a RRR. I'm still using 0.1mm on my RRR.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:41 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
It's a centax clutch alright, but the design is different. Mugen has two bearings on the inside of the clutch bell and one on the outside. Also, the Mugen thrust bearing sticks out the top of the clutch bell, whereas the Kyosho thrust bearing remain inside.

How much gap is there between the flywheel and crankcase? Do you have the washer there? On my TZ, I had to reduce the height of the collet so that I would have adequate clearance between the clutch bell and the clutch shoe.

0.3mm works great on the Mugen, but I'm not sure how well it works in a RRR. I'm still using 0.1mm on my RRR.

Hope this helps.
rmd, 0.1 gap or end-play?
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:49 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
As Far as the shimming goes;the washers between the rear clutch bell bearing are there to make shure the clutch bell NEVER touches the clutch shoe when the throttle is returned to idle and thanks to Mugen Seiki's superior engineering( as opposed to "designers") will never cause a bind unless your MH7. With your single statement (MH7) it is obvious that you have have never built a Mugen clutch. So if you have not "been there, done that"........
Well Mugendrew, I know know that:
- or you didn't understand what I meant,
- or you don't understand centax type of clutches....

It IS possible with to many shims installed to bind the clutch when totally assembled....
So, what do you really mean with "superior" engineering?....
I call it "copying" and change a bit......
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:19 AM   #85
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rmd, 0.1 gap or end-play?
0.1mm end play
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:49 PM   #86
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0.1mm end play
Ah OK. All these discussions about Mike's article saying he uses 0.3 gap got me confused when I saw you saying going from 0.3 to 0.1.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:35 PM   #87
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I feel like i'm jumping into the shark tank with this comment. Why don't you just adjust your clutches by feel not by mm'etrs
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:46 PM   #88
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I feel like i'm jumping into the shark tank with this comment. Why don't you just adjust your clutches by feel not by mm'etrs
to a point you do do that
what mr swauger is saying is just a guide to make you understand the centax better,
the more you work on your clutch the better it will work for you and what you want it to do for you.
its taken me some years to really get a hold on the thing,
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:56 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
I feel like i'm jumping into the shark tank with this comment. Why don't you just adjust your clutches by feel not by mm'etrs
It's a good starting point. Each car is slightly different, so IMO, it's good to know what the Team and more experienced guys are doing, to get a better idea of what works well. Initially, I setup my MTX-4 with 0.1mm as I did with my Kyosho, but was then advised to switch to 0.3mm to lessen the chances of overheating my engine and having thrust bearing problems.
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:33 AM   #90
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i know most of this setup will work on a .21 but what spring tension and end play would be recommend
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