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Old 06-06-2007, 04:21 PM   #61
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I think it's a misprint in the article. Set the endplay at .03mm??? I believe its is supposed to be .3mm. At .03mm I believe you would detroy the thrust bearing. I emailed xtreme rc on this when the article hit the streets no reply.
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:26 PM   #62
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I thought the same thing when i first read it but Ive read other people recommending the same .03 to .04
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:31 PM   #63
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The clutch shims are in .1mm increments how can you set it at .03mm. Thats 1/3 the thickness of one shim?

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Old 06-06-2007, 04:32 PM   #64
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It's 0.3mm
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:34 PM   #65
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That's what I thought
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:30 PM   #66
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lol
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:36 PM   #67
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I messaged mike about this saw him read the article but no reply
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:57 PM   #68
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WHAT DO YOU WANT TO KNOW THEN?????????????????????????????????????????
Step 10
Mike suggest's using an additional thrust bearing washer for spacing the clutch bell away from the shoe. This reduces the number of washers that can be lost when taking it apart. Shimming at this point is critical. YOU WANT TO SHIM THE CLUTCH BELL AWAY FROM THE SHOE JUST ENOUGH SO IT DOESN'T RUB WHEN PRESSURE IS APPLIED INWARDS Use small shims to do this

easy there, M7H's question is valid. the 0.03mm seems to refer to the endplay of the all-up assembly, and not the end gap setting.

but at the beginning of the article, the point was made that the 2 most common mistakes is insufficient spring preload and incorrect gap. it isn't clear what the target gap is.

(if the 0.03mm was a typo and it should read 0.3mm, this does seem like a pretty tight endgap setting, maybe that's why very stiff springs are also suggested?)
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Old 06-07-2007, 02:13 AM   #69
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easy there, M7H's question is valid.
Thanks...

But, even though I am not used to Mugen clutches, I still think that if you shim the way Mike explaines, by setting the gap with shimming behind the first bearing, you will bind the clutch when completely assembled.....

So in the end, the article is still not completely clear.....
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Old 06-07-2007, 02:53 AM   #70
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Sorry M7H for being a bit hostile just thought you were hanging shit on Mugen again your good for that
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Old 06-07-2007, 03:20 AM   #71
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Sorry M7H for being a bit hostile just thought you were hanging shit on Mugen again your good for that
-Off topic mode-,
I don't bash any brand, I always place question marks when people start to "overhype" any product which still needs to prove itself....
Did it with:
Orion CRF, Ninja, Mega MF, Novarossi, Xray NT1....
They are ALL incredible products if you believe the first posts, but some months later, when people return with both feet on the planet, you can read other user experiences...
-On-topic mode-
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:57 AM   #72
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Thanks...

But, even though I am not used to Mugen clutches, I still think that if you shim the way Mike explaines, by setting the gap with shimming behind the first bearing, you will bind the clutch when completely assembled.....

So in the end, the article is still not completely clear.....
I too have to admit there is some ambiguity in the article. A gap of 0.03? I think it's a typo and the author meant 0.3mm. Measuring a gap of 0.03 would be very difficult indeed. I have a feeling that this measurement refers to the the end play. As for the 4mm holes for the flyweights, suggest you start with 3.3mm and work up bit by bit. I've used 4mm and I find it a bit too jumpy for smaller tracks. 3.6mm was nice for me. Experiment until you find a good size. I've got 3, 3.6 and 4mm weights in my kit.

On the plus side, the outward thrust bearing is a cool idea. Pressing inward to ensure the clutch doesn't drag is also another good tip. I used to turn the engine upright and spin the clutch bell. Hear a scratching sound = add more shims. Anyway, I've got a spare bearings so it's time to give it try.

Good luck to everyone else trying this out!
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:12 AM   #73
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Default Which Grease?

For the thrust bearing, what bearing grease are most using?

I've been using Mugen's Super Grease (tube); however, the article doesn't explicitly say it, but shows Mugen's Super Joint Grease being used.

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Old 06-13-2007, 06:13 PM   #74
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For the thrust bearing, what bearing grease are most using?

I've been using Mugen's Super Grease (tube); however, the article doesn't explicitly say it, but shows Mugen's Super Joint Grease being used.

TIA
I use the super grease as well but you're right, it looks like the super joint grease is being used. Maybe as long as you remember to grease the bearing regularly, it will work just as well.
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Old 06-13-2007, 08:01 PM   #75
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Yes it most certaintly is SUPER JOINT GREASE. As Far as the shimming goes;the washers between the rear clutch bell bearing are there to make shure the clutch bell NEVER touches the clutch shoe when the throttle is returned to idle and thanks to Mugen Seiki's superior engineering( as opposed to "designers") will never cause a bind unless your MH7. With your single statement (MH7) it is obvious that you have have never built a Mugen clutch. So if you have not "been there, done that" KEEP YOUR FINGERS OFF THE KEY BOARD. As far as the .3mm cluth bell clearance Mr. Swager is being very kind in GIVING you this INSITE and setting the gap up tight for a 45-60 minute main to compensate for wear as the race goes on. My printed issue shows .3mm...
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