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Old 01-22-2007, 02:07 PM   #16
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i prefer rocket science but toro is the excact same so either toro or rocket science hope this helps
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:09 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mugendude
i prefer rocket science but toro is the excact same so either toro or rocket science hope this helps

thats good to know...
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:10 PM   #18
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Look into fuels that actually post their nitro content quality and castor oils. As ive heard before , if someone doesnt want to post whats actually in their fuels. They can keep it.

Many companies dont use high quality castors or nitromethanes. Some use outside asian sources that have by products which produce bad odors , gumming of motors and the byproducts also increase heat.

A fuel should smell clean and or sweet when burning. After a gallon break down your motor and inspect for gumming if its clean. Then you got yourself a winner.

But a lot of it comes down to preference , what works for you , what conditions your in , how fresh the fuel was (was it sitting at a distributor or was it bought direct and how long ago, how long did it sit in the factory etc etc), what type of motor its being run in , how hard you tune the motor , what oil percentages you run , if you use any additives , how long ago the gallon was opened , was it exposed to sunlight and heat....

The list goes on and on as far as factors that can change the performance of your fuel.

Just stick with what helps you win and doesnt let you down. As well its good to stick with a fuel that you know cause you will find tuning a motor has a lot to do with your familiarity of one fuel. You swap to another fuel and run it and find you blew a motor and want to blame that fuel , well it could be true , could be the old oils letting go and the new ones coming in and thats where things can go wrong. One fuels oil can conflict with another , some might even work better together.

I know some people who mix fuels. Ever heard of BROdonnels..(byrons and odonnels) Or Wildside , (wildcat and sidewinder).

Theres just so much out there, so much to play with. I know people who have their own oil additives that they prefer to add. Like slick 50 and weird lubricative products that cost quite a bit that they add a few drops to their fuel bottles.

Its mesmerizing. I say just grab an old motor , grab some friends. Get a few different gallons one day , find a parkinglot , get a bunch of temp gauges and goto work. Gurantee the end of the day youll have learned a lot. This is what ive done and ill probably do some more side by side tests to really help one determine whats best and whats not.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 01-22-2007 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:11 PM   #19
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+1 for bsmooth about the other factors that could blow a motor up

Another thing about Fuel is availability in your area. Like for instance Maxys Fuel is not available in other countries like for instance Africa (there was one dude who asked). It will be nice to have all kinds of fuels distributed everywhere but unfortunately that is not the case (as of right now anyways, who knows what it's gonna be like in the future).
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:12 PM   #20
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IMO Rocket Science is one of the best that i have used so far
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:15 PM   #21
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Very well put AI
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
+1 for bsmooth about the other factors that could blow a motor up

Another thing about Fuel is availability in your area. Like for instance Maxys Fuel is not available in other countries like for instance Africa (there was one dude who asked). It will be nice to have all kinds of fuels distributed everywhere but unfortunately that is not the case (as of right now anyways, who knows what it's gonna be like in the future).
When fuel travels it gets abused , its also explosive and its also heavy and people dont want to pay $30 dollars a gallon , more like $20 so its hard to profit at greater distances. Therefore , Its hard to distribute far. Normally it goes by freight when I order mine and I have to order in bulk.

The same probably goes for a lot of other people. And when its sitting in the back of a hot truck , its just not good for it.

I cant imagine fuel being distrubuted internationally , cause it would probably have to go by boat as most airplanes do not allow this stuff or any sort of liquid fuel aboard as pressures and such can cause it to explode. So that means its sitting over 100% humidity traveling for about 2-6 weeks at sea , sitting at docks , going through customs , waiting more and more. By that time the people in the other country give it a try and it probably blows everyones motors...lol. Its kinda like food , it goes bad especially when left in bad conditions.

Gotta love nitro cause its hydroscopic (absorbs moisture). Which ruins a fuel by allowing the nitro to escape , which is then replaced by water which can hydro lock a motor as water doesnt compress.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:08 PM   #23
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Hey Guys

as mentioned the fuel debate is a long personal one. Personally i think you need to look at a companies reputation and consistant reliability. What counts is results more than anything. And not many companies what to disclose their recipie or ingredients purely because its something they may have developed, thats where reputation comes into it.

What you need to look out for is people making wild claims and saying that they are the best.. there is no best , just what works for your application. You also need to read up on the chemichal manufacturer companies web sited, the ones that own the brands of nitro etc. thats where you will get the truth about where the chemichals are coming from ..

We are also, generally speaking, subject to believing that there has to be a certain amount of oil for the fuel to be acceptable. But if you go by old standards you would think that using 12 to 16% oil for a road vehicle is the norm but there has been a lot of innovations with modern oils , as their technology gets better so does the efficientcy of the oil. So that again is why some brands wont publish what contents they have. " For arguments sake " If you were to read there was 6% oil in your fuel would you buy it ? probably not ... but if you it had 12% the standard belief system regarding RC fuels would say that it would be the better choice.. But 6% of a very high quality oil can protect just as well as 12% of a lesser quality oil , if not better.. .. thats just a common fact. So having said that i agree it is your right to know whats in there when you buy it, But for performance and race bred fuels that have a reputation you can safely try it with the assurabce that is a decent product because of its reputation.

Anyway id say select a few brands that people you know that have experience with. And try them.. thats the only way youll tell , just remember to carefully re tune the motor when you change fuels. Some may share tune , others may need a tweak ..

Hope this helps

Cheers MM
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Old 01-22-2007, 07:17 PM   #24
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Anyone here use Mugen Seiki Race Fuel? I know quite a few people who run only that.
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Old 01-22-2007, 07:45 PM   #25
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Each florist will always swear that the flowers in their shop smells nicer than the next flower shop

This debate will take us no where. To me, the best fuel is the cheapest and consistent supply brand of fuel.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Look into fuels that actually post their nitro content quality and castor oils. As ive heard before , if someone doesnt want to post whats actually in their fuels. They can keep it.

Many companies dont use high quality castors or nitromethanes. Some use outside asian sources that have by products which produce bad odors , gumming of motors and the byproducts also increase heat.

A fuel should smell clean and or sweet when burning. After a gallon break down your motor and inspect for gumming if its clean. Then you got yourself a winner.

But a lot of it comes down to preference , what works for you , what conditions your in , how fresh the fuel was (was it sitting at a distributor or was it bought direct and how long ago, how long did it sit in the factory etc etc), what type of motor its being run in , how hard you tune the motor , what oil percentages you run , if you use any additives , how long ago the gallon was opened , was it exposed to sunlight and heat....

The list goes on and on as far as factors that can change the performance of your fuel.

Just stick with what helps you win and doesnt let you down. As well its good to stick with a fuel that you know cause you will find tuning a motor has a lot to do with your familiarity of one fuel. You swap to another fuel and run it and find you blew a motor and want to blame that fuel , well it could be true , could be the old oils letting go and the new ones coming in and thats where things can go wrong. One fuels oil can conflict with another , some might even work better together.

I know some people who mix fuels. Ever heard of BROdonnels..(byrons and odonnels) Or Wildside , (wildcat and sidewinder).

Theres just so much out there, so much to play with. I know people who have their own oil additives that they prefer to add. Like slick 50 and weird lubricative products that cost quite a bit that they add a few drops to their fuel bottles.

Its mesmerizing. I say just grab an old motor , grab some friends. Get a few different gallons one day , find a parkinglot , get a bunch of temp gauges and goto work. Gurantee the end of the day youll have learned a lot. This is what ive done and ill probably do some more side by side tests to really help one determine whats best and whats not.
Great advice!!!!!!
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
Anyone here use Mugen Seiki Race Fuel? I know quite a few people who run only that.
Aka byrons.
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
Hey Guys

as mentioned the fuel debate is a long personal one. Personally i think you need to look at a companies reputation and consistant reliability. What counts is results more than anything. And not many companies what to disclose their recipie or ingredients purely because its something they may have developed, thats where reputation comes into it.

What you need to look out for is people making wild claims and saying that they are the best.. there is no best , just what works for your application. You also need to read up on the chemichal manufacturer companies web sited, the ones that own the brands of nitro etc. thats where you will get the truth about where the chemichals are coming from ..

We are also, generally speaking, subject to believing that there has to be a certain amount of oil for the fuel to be acceptable. But if you go by old standards you would think that using 12 to 16% oil for a road vehicle is the norm but there has been a lot of innovations with modern oils , as their technology gets better so does the efficientcy of the oil. So that again is why some brands wont publish what contents they have. " For arguments sake " If you were to read there was 6% oil in your fuel would you buy it ? probably not ... but if you it had 12% the standard belief system regarding RC fuels would say that it would be the better choice.. But 6% of a very high quality oil can protect just as well as 12% of a lesser quality oil , if not better.. .. thats just a common fact. So having said that i agree it is your right to know whats in there when you buy it, But for performance and race bred fuels that have a reputation you can safely try it with the assurabce that is a decent product because of its reputation.

Anyway id say select a few brands that people you know that have experience with. And try them.. thats the only way youll tell , just remember to carefully re tune the motor when you change fuels. Some may share tune , others may need a tweak ..

Hope this helps

Cheers MM
Yeah your right about oils , some oils at 5% can outperform others at 10% and so on. I really like klotz oil. This is what is run in some of the top race fuels from rc to beyond. High quality castor oil , burns clean , almost no gumming.
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:52 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarlet
Thanks for your explanation Team Kamikaze, on things to consider a good fuel, and to the others that responded, I am not asking for a specific brand, I have tried them all, but I will stick with Powermaster for now, it is easy to get where I live. and in my opinion on other fuel I believe W---s is a little hard on engines, B----s is slow, and T-----o is I believe doesn't hold a tune very well, what I really like is Runner Time, it is expensive but it is the best.
In what do you base to say that W---s fuel is a little hard on engines and B----s is slow ??
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Old 01-23-2007, 09:20 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarlet
I have tried the M---s fuel you mentioned during the Great Lakes Challenge, it is sad to say it blew 3 of my motors, and it did not only happened to me, I know a few more racers using the same fuel that blew a few of their motor up.
Hi, Scarlet
I would have to agree with Bsmooth there. I can be sure that it was not the fuel that blew the motor. and yes Fresh fuel is the best That is why here at Maxy's Pro Racing Fuel We do no make the fuel until our customers order it.

We sell to many states, we have customers around the world and we have not yet received a complain of any motor being blown because of our fuel.

Do not be affraid of trying our product once again, I can assure you that your motor will NOT blow up.

Best of Luck!!




Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth
..There are a lot of factors that blow up engines. I would bet that 99 percent of the time that it isn't because of the fuel! If you use a FRESH, name brand fuel you will be ok. Another good source is the RB message board. They sell they're own fuel (that's hard to find in the U.S.), but could recommend something in the States.

Last edited by maxysfuel; 01-23-2007 at 11:37 AM.
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