Q-B0R0 B0MBER

iTrader: (1)

WHAT BRAKE PADS BESIDES THE X RAY STOCK PADS ARE GOOD ,I SEEN THE CARBON FIBRE ONES BY KM ARE THEY ANY GOOD?

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

KM in lower speed braking not smooth .
XRAY STD ,Kyosho or Mugen !

NikoRacing

I also think that KM brakes are too violent..
Now I'm using the Capricorn brake set and I like it very much. It's almost impossible to lock the wheels when braking and this is very very positive.

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

YOu can adjust the brakes to not grab so hard many ways. replacing pads is too expensive and you get brake fade in long mains.

Alex Siddique

iTrader: (30)

can you please post the part number you used to convert it .
thanks

NikoRacing

There is a complete set composed by pads, ferodos and 2 springs...(and I think that also the Cap brake disc help a lot the braking)
The set has this code: CAP-510

http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...62&language=en

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

I really like the mugen yellow teflon pads with some springs in between the pads.

For my own brake setup I used the Serpent 733 springs and bushes combined with a milled down Xceed disk and some custom carbon brake pad's to make everything fit.





This setup provides very aggressive and responsive braking from the first lap without fading or locking the wheels.

The second best option would be the Capricorn pads with the Capricorn disk. This makes for a very smooth braking system, a bit too smooth for my liking under hard braking. With the mugen pads I'm able to brake later.
I will use the Capricorn pads at our next round of nationals where you actually want smooth braking.

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

I would start out with this set:

http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...79&language=en

This combined with replacing all the steel pivot balls to aluminium ones will get you close to the 60-80 grams you are looking for.
If there is still budget left I would suggest replacing all the screws except the ones in the chassisplate for Ti ones.

If you want to save weight work in the following order:

1) Everything from the driveline and suspension, driveline gives you more acceleration, suspension more overall traction.
2) Get all the weight out of the highest points of the car, for instance the bodyshell. Most weigh around 120 grams, mine weighs in at 98 grams.
3) Outside to inside, getting rid of weight outside the wheelbase of the car will help it rotate better. Again the bodyshell or front bumper.

As you can see I would never advice someone with starting to save weight by switching to Lipo or Life. This will actually worsen performance.
If you want to switch to Lipo or Life get the brass plate as well, now you will lower the CG thus increasing corner speed.

mc_chofo

do any of you have any feedback about the using of the xray kevlar belts on the nt1's drivetrain?
i'm looking forward to use them but i have my doubts about the performance and durability.
thanx

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

can somone tell me if these come with aluminium shock bodies..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...orber-Set-2-T2

yes it clearly stats in the description it does.. but amainhobbies is telling me they come with plastic.

here is the thread; http://forums.amainhobbies.com/index.php?topic=3236.0

ttso

iTrader: (1)

DS, I think you need.... cleanup a bit....

Nice milled down disc, really nice

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

hm, just noticed mtx4 and nt1 rear belt is the same length!.

Seisick

and 733 rear is the same as nt1 front

firecat

does any one know if the exceed centax clutch will work on the x-ray.

nitro ho

iTrader: (1)

Yes it will