TomB

iTrader: (10)

get the mugen starter box. it has a flat top and the chassis sits flat, as opposed to it sitting on two peg like areas ont he serpent. when you push down on the chassis on the serpent box it bends the chassis

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

mugen all the way

musti72

I drove the car yesterday for the first time...

It was pretty much stock setup with 16/22 pinions,58/53 spurs, Novarossi plus 12-3C with short nova header skyline pipe. The track used to have very high traction, but hasnt used for a long time, so it was dirty and low traction.

After doing the 2 speed and clutch stuff, First thing I realised with this car was very quick steering input and mid corner oversteer compared to mugen. Actually it was too much for me, so I changed to a solid front and reduced my epa. With these changes, I got a car more drivable, but not enough. There was a lot of wheelspin out of the corners. Ill try 17t pinion next time.

After about 5 tanks, it had a problem and I came into pits. I saw the front CVD broken and flown away with the multidiff outdrive As I said, the track was very dirty, so I think little rocks broke it. I have a universal shaft from mtx4, have one of you ever tried that into nt1? I mean the shaft only, not the part that goes into the upright. Would it be a problem?

Looking forward to try more setups before the nationals

Btw, +1 on mugen starterbox

katze

you can use the mugen shaft on the nt1. they fit nicely

jelayne

iTrader: (4)

Guys over the weekend I stripped 5 gears, sometimes even before the race starts a gear strips

2 weeks before I lost 6 gears and every time I have rebuilt my transmission and gear mesh.

Today I changed my clutch bell and all my pinions to brand new ones, placed my car on the box starter and let it run through 1 tank on the box and the 1st gear yet again began to chip, and this was on the box starter, what gives ??

It is really becoming expensive now when it strips on my box starter.

Here are some pics from todays box run and gear mesh..

HELP HELP !!!

jelayne

iTrader: (4)

Guys over the weekend I stripped 5 gears, sometimes even before the race starts a gear strips

2 weeks before I lost 6 gears and every time I have rebuilt my transmission and gear mesh.

Today I changed my clutch bell and all my pinions to brand new ones, placed my car on the box starter and let it run through 1 tank on the box and the 1st gear yet again began to chip, and this was on the box starter, what gives ??

It is really becoming expensive now when it strips on my box starter.

Here are some pics from today's box run and gear mesh..

HELP HELP !!!

grub

gidday jelayne
mate first i would check your bearinngs on the two spead shaft and the bearing in your clutch bell
also check the travel on the throttle servo as to much end play will pull on the carby and move the your gear mesh..
just check to make shore the engine is square to the engine mounts as you can get second gear to mesh up perfectly but end up with to much of a cap on the first gear...
also how old your engine the front bearings not shot is it????

NiTrO BoOsTeR

iTrader: (7)

i dont run a NT1 i got a mugen but what might be causing it is either a broken engine mount, to much end play on the Clutch bell and the 1st gear spur is hitting the 2nd gear pinion. You might have a bent layshaft, there might be to much of a gap between the shoe in ur 2speed and the housing, also on breaking check that the engine wont move. also the way you mounted the gears, they might not be straight on the housing.

Mitchell

goop

iTrader: (2)

i had the same problem on the first nt1 and what finally fixed it was replaceing the one way bearing assembly on the 2 speed. the bearing would bind up

_cyclops_

Hi Guys,

I've been running the NT1 for a while now, i like the car a lot. One thing i always have trouble with is the clutch. It just doesn't seem to be ok. Setting it is fine, so it engages pretty good but not as good as i want. This seems to because of some play on the clutch bell and the bearings. Anybody noticed this too, the small bearing in front of the clutch always has some play. How did you guys removed that?

Regards,
Ruben

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

bearings have only a limited life span and will vary depending on conditions etc so best bet try some new bearing in your clutch bell front and rear there cheap so its no big deal then check the end of your crank shaft to see if you have any wobble really there should be no wobble at all, I replace engine bearings say every 6 months or so and that will depend on how much run time I do on the engine, finally check your thrust bearing and washers are the right way round. once you have your bearings sorted make sure you setup your clutch with a few washers in front of your tension nut to set your end play and all should be good to go
cheers

warpspeed57

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=_cyclops_;5651320]Hi Guys,

I've been running the NT1 for a while now, i like the car a lot. One thing i always have trouble with is the clutch. It just doesn't seem to be ok. Setting it is fine, so it engages pretty good but not as good as i want. This seems to because of some play on the clutch bell and the bearings. Anybody noticed this too, the small bearing in front of the clutch always has some play. How did you guys removed that?

Regards,
Ruben[/QUOTE
Also be sure you havnt accidently swapped your thrust race holder for another brand, or swapped your thrust race for another brand. We accidently did this and the other thrust race had a slightly bigger Inside diamater,,causing wobbble,, as mentioned also, the race holder of some other brands is the incorrect size. To double check, remove the holder and check the fit of the bearing AND the thrust race on the holder. If this is all OK then I`LL bet you have the thrust racr on backwards,, as mentioned above. Remember the large hole of the thrust race goes toward the fly wheel. Let us know how you get on. As for set up, the XRAY clutch is superb once you get it right. We use the hard spring with .8-1mm of compression and .5-.6 clutch gap with .1 end play. If you use this set-up you should be fine.

warpspeed57

iTrader: (3)

Definatly check your Clutch bearings and thrust race is the correct way around.(See my post above) Usually a chipped tooth is a sign that your mesh is opening up bad. This is usually a bearing problem.
If its not the clutch bearing , double check the bearing on the lay-shaft behind the Spur gears. I have actually seen the bulkhead melted from bearing siezure and the bearing was flogging around in the bulk-head! Needless to say this was causing the spurs to strip almost instantly. Also check your engine mount bolts are tight,, Let us know how you get on.
In an estimated 5000+ laps we have only ever stripped 2 gears. One from crap on the track and the other was the second gear we melted from being to tight a mesh!

warpspeed57

iTrader: (3)

Also u might want to check your steering throw. If you have all the rates dialled up to 100% or greater, this places the shafts under great stress. Try turning your rates down and see how you go. We originally broke 3 of these in as many races then we turned our steering down to 95% (was at 120%) and we have not snapped one since. ( Funnily enough our oversteer problem went away as well!) PS: The first version of the CVD`s did in fact have a weel point. If you look closely at the shaft is there a step up to a slightly larger diamater in it about 3/4 of the way out. If so this is an early one and was prone to snapping. The newer ones now dont have the step and are far superior.

musti72

As I said, I reduced my epa to %80 from 25 degree on setup station. The breakage happened after that.

The break point isnt the step you mentioned. Its closer to wheel axle.

Anyway... I put mugen shaft, and it fits nice.