teamgp

Steering improved overall. However, if you could post your entire setup in the XRAY Forum Setup Sheets, we could provide you with better advice on improving your setup once we've taken a look.

Also, tell us what works great about the cars handling so we can try to give advice that won't upset those areas.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Don't need alum. shock body !
or 3 Racing !

slide_228

I ahve rechecked the car again and may be I found what the problem was. The 2 pivot balls on rear a arm backed out and my track width is now 202 instead of 199-200 Will re-adjust and see. Your observation seems correct but I think I want to get the car set up right with stock configeration first.

Nexus Racing

Xray suggests putting thread lock on the pivot ball threads before screwing them in, but I think that even that is not enough (I still had some back out).

The next time I dismantle my car, I am going to put a small amount of CA in the arms, let it fully dry, and then thread the pivot balls in. My guess is that this will make the holes much tighter.

teamgp

I've also had a nagging issue with the aluminum nuts backing out and allowing the hubs to move in and out as the pivot balls became loose.

I decided to put a small dab of shoo goo on the threads and side of the pivotball aluminum nut to keep it from backing out. Of couse I was careful not to block the hex hole so I can adjust the pivot balls if need be.

A pair of needle nose pliers can pluck it out if I need to.

Nexus Racing

As much as you probably play with that car, I'm not surprised .

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I found a great deal on a NIB NT1. It won't be here in time for me to give it a test run next weekend, so I probably will not get a chance to run it until late September. I'm not going to be buying the recommended upgrades initially, so I can get the full "NIB experience" - but I will seal the diff's with Permatex. Engine wise, I'm going to start it off with a standard 3-port TZ.

I'm really looking forward to comparing it against the RRR WCE and MTX-4.

jarnotrulli

i had a v one rrr evo wce before i got my nt1, there is not so much difference in driving only the back of the car is better. and the lay out of the car is better thougt about everything.

MBlackketter

Why would Permatex the diff's?? They don't leak!

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

O-ring diff seals and me just don't get along - plus, a few people have said they leak. If you've got some trick to preventing them from leaking, I'm more than willing to give it a try.

MTX-4 gasket diff seals don't leak. I like those.

MBlackketter

These don't leak either if you just take your time to make sure the seal does not slip out when your putting them together.

royfan33

iTrader: (8)

My diffs don't leak either, but the o-ring type gasket can be a pain. As said above you have to take your time to make sure it doesn't get in the wrong place and get pinched. And even though sometimes the gasket may look reusable I replace mine to be sure. Just order a pack of gaskets so you have no worries.

Personally I would prefer a traditional diff flat diff gasket. The o-ring seems to do the job, but if in a hurry trying to change between quali's it can be a PITA....

Sow&Steady

Ah! You're getting there Rainer ... NIB experience is a good idea too.

Apex

iTrader: (51)

I'm in the process of installing the electronics...Do you guys use a switch to control current flow or do you just plug\unplug the battery into the receiver to control the current flow?

royfan33

iTrader: (8)

I bought a 6" male/female extension that I have plugged in the the RX. Then just plug/unplug on the outside. Only cost couple of dollars, and I think it's more reliable than a switch.