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Old 06-18-2007, 11:12 AM   #1306
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Originally Posted by SlamMan View Post
Thanks, Mark. Maybe I'm just over complicating things.

How does that work though? If the gears are different sizes does it ever make meshing first and second gears difficult?
Gears are different in terms of number of teeth, but the diameter is same.
Read this thread on xray forum regarding gear size and meshing...
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:16 AM   #1307
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I've found the car to have more forward grip with the multi-diff.... It is a good option for tracks with high traction.


I've found that when running the diffs, the rear with 60,000 and front with 80,000 (stock setup) works very well and make the car easy to drive. When I dropped the rear to a thinner fluid, I experianced high tire wear in the rear, and the car became sluggish (I think from tire spin)
Ralpha, Barry and the other RC America drivers tried and liked a spool/80k rear diff combo at a recent race on a high traction large 1/8 scale track. The spool worked great for me as well, but I didn't get a chance to try 80k in the rear diff yet. I'll be trying it this weekend at the same track though.

The team drivers used the multi-diff in spool config and I used the composite diff with the spool insert as I haven't put my hands on a multi-diff yet.

Some team drivers have also liked a 100k/60k combo with front/rear diffs.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:24 PM   #1308
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On rubber the 100K/60K mix is perfect.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:31 PM   #1309
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Originally Posted by GK View Post
Gears are different in terms of number of teeth, but the diameter is same.
Read this thread on xray forum regarding gear size and meshing...
I'm not sure what is going on on the Xray site, but what they are staying does not work for me... You must have the total number of teeth for 1st the same for 2nd gear, for example I run a total 76 teeth on both 1st and 2nd, but I have a problem with screws backing out and causing stripped gears. With locktite.... 2 in less then 5 mins.... I have handed it to a number of experts and set the mesh and no way does that work... I have to pinch my stuff together and let it "wear" in or I'm getting stripped gears in less then 5 mins of running. So did I end up with some not good pinion gears? I do not think so, the same happens with new pinions and spur gears.... so the only thing left is the engine mount....

Any one with any ideas... I'm not the only one wiht this problem, the other guy that runs a NT1 is having the same problem....
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:14 PM   #1310
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BVoltz, this may be a dumb response, but are you guys shaking up the bottle of loctite first? I have a bottle of loctite that just plain doesn't work if I forget to shake it up first.

I haven't changed any gears on mine yet...the locals looked at my Picco Red-Dot-equipped car out of the corner and down the straight and said "I wouldn't change anything..." .
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:56 PM   #1311
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
I'm not sure what is going on on the Xray site, but what they are staying does not work for me... You must have the total number of teeth for 1st the same for 2nd gear, for example I run a total 76 teeth on both 1st and 2nd, but I have a problem with screws backing out and causing stripped gears. With locktite.... 2 in less then 5 mins.... I have handed it to a number of experts and set the mesh and no way does that work... I have to pinch my stuff together and let it "wear" in or I'm getting stripped gears in less then 5 mins of running. So did I end up with some not good pinion gears? I do not think so, the same happens with new pinions and spur gears.... so the only thing left is the engine mount....

Any one with any ideas... I'm not the only one wiht this problem, the other guy that runs a NT1 is having the same problem....
Do you have any team drivers in your area that could look at it? What area are you in?

Since I started using blue loctite on the screws (motor to mounts and mounts to stands), I haven't had a problem with stripped gears at all. This after stripping 3 spurs in 2 hours...

Once I have the gears all on, I slightly loosen all 8 screws and then twist the motor for the correct mesh. Then once I have a tight mesh that still allows the gears to freespin, I tighten up the motor mount screws in a criss-cross pattern while putting force on the motor to keep the mesh the same. After each run, I check the mesh and every now and then I have to correct the mesh. But its never been bad enough to strip the spurs.
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:58 PM   #1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
I'm not sure what is going on on the Xray site, but what they are staying does not work for me... You must have the total number of teeth for 1st the same for 2nd gear, for example I run a total 76 teeth on both 1st and 2nd, but I have a problem with screws backing out and causing stripped gears. With locktite.... 2 in less then 5 mins.... I have handed it to a number of experts and set the mesh and no way does that work... I have to pinch my stuff together and let it "wear" in or I'm getting stripped gears in less then 5 mins of running. So did I end up with some not good pinion gears? I do not think so, the same happens with new pinions and spur gears.... so the only thing left is the engine mount....

Any one with any ideas... I'm not the only one wiht this problem, the other guy that runs a NT1 is having the same problem....
Hmmm.... What locktite are you using? The blue Tamiya stuff seems to work pretty well.

Now I know you're running an XRAY, but stop by the MTX-4 KB and read the gear stripping section. Not sure if anything might apply, but it's worth a shot.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:18 PM   #1313
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i was under the idea that i was able to change pinions or spurs without worrying about split . i was told just change whatever and it all will mesh.

the pinions and spurs gain their ratio advantage by using variable pitch teeth even though the diameter is the same.
this is atleast how it was explained to me by xray

i have all the pinions and spurs and have changed at will without any problems , not one gear stripped after 2 gallons
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:41 PM   #1314
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Instead of using loctite on the motor mount screws, use 3mm lock washers. The screws will never back out. With loctite the heat from the motor will just melt the loctite and loosen it up. Some cars use these 3mm lock washers (like my MBX5 and MBX5T) but most others don't. I try to include them in every nitro kit I put together.

Best regards,
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:08 PM   #1315
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One other step I do after setting the mesh and tightening all screws is remove 1st gear spur to see if the 2nd spur/pinion mesh looks good as well...
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:12 PM   #1316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykay View Post
What I can tell, yesterday I drove a NT1 from a friend (kit setup). At the first moment it was a very stable car and the only diffrent this and my old mtx4 was, that you just need more steering on power.
The next time you are at the track try removing some rear toe in , this will give you more turn in and more on power steering.
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:44 PM   #1317
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Originally Posted by teamgp View Post
Do you have any team drivers in your area that could look at it? What area are you in?
Nope... Tostie was in for one of the races and he ran the car... It was the first time the car was on the track... The stripping begain......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing View Post
BVoltz, this may be a dumb response, but are you guys shaking up the bottle of loctite first? I have a bottle of loctite that just plain doesn't work if I forget to shake it up first.
Yep... but I think it is the heat of the south...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Hmmm.... What locktite are you using? The blue Tamiya stuff seems to work pretty well.

Now I know you're running an XRAY, but stop by the MTX-4 KB and read the gear stripping section. Not sure if anything might apply, but it's worth a shot.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info... I using the Locktight brand... no problems elsewhere...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonysScrews View Post
Instead of using loctite on the motor mount screws, use 3mm lock washers. The screws will never back out. With loctite the heat from the motor will just melt the loctite and loosen it up. Some cars use these 3mm lock washers (like my MBX5 and MBX5T) but most others don't. I try to include them in every nitro kit I put together.

Best regards,
Great idea.... I guess I need to get the screw kit ordered from you....
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:53 PM   #1318
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Has anyone tried NT1 hard chassis?.....

What about rear CVD for NT1....?? Is it necessary...?
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Old 06-19-2007, 12:48 AM   #1319
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hello guys..i m from malaysia..just got a good ride last sunday and the car was superb in/out corners and speed.i read here about the gear stripping matter.what make it comes to it?i had my 3litres run without any,added with a big crash glitch,and the nt1 still a wonder kit to have..

maybe i am still new with nt1 but i was a mtx4 driver for quite sometimes witout a single gear stripped,can anybody advice me on nt1 problems?

regards.

hey biomass..you did great!
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Old 06-19-2007, 12:48 AM   #1320
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Pics of my NT1 and here's my setup for our local track :

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=121&setup=nt1
Attached Thumbnails
Xray NT1-dsc00856.jpg   Xray NT1-dsc00857.jpg   Xray NT1-dsc00859.jpg   Xray NT1-dsc00862.jpg  
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