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Old 05-15-2007, 05:30 PM   #991
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Go back under your bridge....
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Old 05-15-2007, 05:42 PM   #992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LORD SHADO
x ray lack the guts to show the competion again. what car was first?
It looks like you need to bring your stuff Maryland next month. and show us how its done.

Do you even race RC cars?

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Old 05-15-2007, 07:05 PM   #993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
The idea is to balance the car's left/right weight distribution to provide more symmetrical handling. I prefer to start with the ballast as close to the front/rear centerline since that yields the least impact on the car front/rear bias.

The best way to balance the car would be to use 4 scales with each wheel centered over 1 scale. With the car on the scales you would then add weight to the heavy side to make the left & right side of each end perfectly match while maintaining the front/rear weight differential.

Although scales are needed to make perfect adjustments I have found the simple balance pins to be much faster, easier and in practice just as good; providing you can place your ballast close to the front/rear center line.

With a Nitro car it is important to check balance both with dry and full tanks since most cars don't have their fuel load perfectly centered. After you figure the ballast required for both dry and full you should split the difference giving you the closest possible balance throughout each stint.


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Its more than just symetrical driving. It balances out the traction for each tire. Too much weight on one tire and too little weight on one tire will either overuse or not fully use the given tires traction to its full potential. More even tire wear , more grip and you can adjust front to rear balance.
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Old 05-17-2007, 04:18 PM   #994
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QUOTE :-

I sneaked out and test drove the NT1 the other day. The track was full of cut grass and it had been raining for 2 days straight before the test day so traction was medium-to-low. I used a Protoform Mazda 6 body, stock set-up and tested with two a set of tyres, an ATS set and a Speedmind set of foam tyres. The ATS was somehow exhibiting a lack of cornering on exit but the Speedmind was much better. The car has tremendous turn-in and is very stable. Considering the traction available, the car was on rails.

Acceleration was phenomenal, probably because of the shortish ratio of the stock gearing but more likely because of the new clutch and the efficient design built into the NT1 (small diffs, smooth spurs and pinions meshing, loose drive-train). The two-speed changed smoothly and quietly, beautiful. Ash and I found that the front small pulley was clicking loose with a lot of play after 3 tanks, testament to the fact the roll-pin in composite slot way of mounting gears is a weak one. Other than that I really like the handling of the car out of the box and I have to say, the NT1 has got tremendous winning potential.

Enough blah blah, click on the picture on the left (at 3hobby.net) to go download the video and many thanks to Ash Bond for doing the video shooting.
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:43 PM   #995
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"I sneaked out..." - that's funny. You make it sound as if you weren't suppose to be at the track.

I really enjoyed the video. Car looked good. What diff oils were you using? What shore tires and sizes? Was the car setup based on the kit setup sheet or did you have to make any adjustments?

Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-17-2007, 08:02 PM   #996
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Excellent work... I appreciate the fact that you really go out of your way to give an unbiased and full evaluation of a product. I just wanted to say, keep up the good work and thanks. What was your engine/pipe combo?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
QUOTE :-

I sneaked out and test drove the NT1 the other day. The track was full of cut grass and it had been raining for 2 days straight before the test day so traction was medium-to-low. I used a Protoform Mazda 6 body, stock set-up and tested with two a set of tyres, an ATS set and a Speedmind set of foam tyres. The ATS was somehow exhibiting a lack of cornering on exit but the Speedmind was much better. The car has tremendous turn-in and is very stable. Considering the traction available, the car was on rails.

Acceleration was phenomenal, probably because of the shortish ratio of the stock gearing but more likely because of the new clutch and the efficient design built into the NT1 (small diffs, smooth spurs and pinions meshing, loose drive-train). The two-speed changed smoothly and quietly, beautiful. Ash and I found that the front small pulley was clicking loose with a lot of play after 3 tanks, testament to the fact the roll-pin in composite slot way of mounting gears is a weak one. Other than that I really like the handling of the car out of the box and I have to say, the NT1 has got tremendous winning potential.

Enough blah blah, click on the picture on the left (at 3hobby.net) to go download the video and many thanks to Ash Bond for doing the video shooting.
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Old 05-17-2007, 11:47 PM   #997
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I need some help with the centax clutch. This is my first gas car so... I'm running the OS TZ 12

I finally got to run the car in an empty parking lot today. I ended up loosening the centax clutch all the way out to get it to engage? I didn't try tightening it back up after which so I'm not sure if it's relatively light or stiff. I certainly can't go any lighter though.

I'm under the impression this isn't normal. How much did you guys have to adjust the clutch from the original settings? Should I change something? would changing the clutch gap help?

One thing that struck me as odd was that I didn't have to use a single shim to achieve the proper flywheel gap, clutch gap, and clutch bell end play as according to the instruction manual. The motor was dead on to the measurments from the book without any shimming.
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Old 05-18-2007, 12:03 AM   #998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamMan
I need some help with the centax clutch. This is my first gas car so... I'm running the OS TZ 12

I finally got to run the car in an empty parking lot today. I ended up loosening the centax clutch all the way out to get it to engage? I didn't try tightening it back up after which so I'm not sure if it's relatively light or stiff. I certainly can't go any lighter though.

I'm under the impression this isn't normal. How much did you guys have to adjust the clutch from the original settings? Should I change something? would changing the clutch gap help?

One thing that struck me as odd was that I didn't have to use a single shim to achieve the proper flywheel gap, clutch gap, and clutch bell end play as according to the instruction manual. The motor was dead on to the measurments from the book without any shimming.
I've had some trouble with the clutch too, you should be carefull when you set the Clutch gap. How did you do that? Also, i'm using a gap of 0.55mm in stead of the 0.7mm which is in the manual... just to make the clutch easier.
If you have been running the car with a bad setting, and you are using the white clutch shoe (don't know which one is in the kit). Then check the clutch gap again because the white shoe wears pretty fast when the clutch isn't adjusted properly. This gives a bigger clutch gap!
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Old 05-18-2007, 12:05 AM   #999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Novarossi Engine Mounting Tech Tip:
http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?p=51026#51026

If you own a Novarossi based engine, make sure you read this one.
The more I read from and about Hudy, the less I like him.

"The engine mounts on some of the Novarossi engines may not fit perfectly on the NT1 engine mounts"

No Idiot, your f.cking engine mounts do not fit the Nova engines, simple as that.

But how could a world reknown top engineer with the most brilliant ideas ever, make a simple mistake like that.

So, you XRay deciples rather Dremel away on your engines....
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Old 05-18-2007, 01:09 AM   #1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
"I sneaked out..." - that's funny. You make it sound as if you weren't suppose to be at the track.
I wasn't, it was on Wednesday ...

Quote:
I really enjoyed the video. Car looked good. What diff oils were you using? What shore tires and sizes? Was the car setup based on the kit setup sheet or did you have to make any adjustments?

Thanks for the info.
I didn't make any adjustments at all from the kit setup info. Everything set per instructions, even the tyre diameters.

Shores were 37 fronts and 40 rears for both sets.

Glad you enjoyed the video, the car was definitely planted. As you can see I did not hold back on the throttle or steering inputs ( a bit rough if you know the way I normally drive ).

The track was a mess, not a lot of traction there ... maybe you can't see it clearly in the download version of the video but in the original video you can see some damp patches as well as tiny blades of cut grass at every corner.

Like I said, the only thing I didn't like in the kit setup is that it sort of drifts out on corner exit. This can easily be fixed with a setup change or two. The other are the pulleys, now rocking back and forth, especially the front middle one and I've only run 3 tanks in the car. Definitely needs a hop-up to the aluminium ones.
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Old 05-18-2007, 01:12 AM   #1001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg
Excellent work... I appreciate the fact that you really go out of your way to give an unbiased and full evaluation of a product. I just wanted to say, keep up the good work and thanks. What was your engine/pipe combo?
Thanks eg, really appreciate the feedback.

The engine is just the Plus 12-3, I bought it a while back but could only run it in 3 weekends ago. Pipe was a JP 2601, EFRA legal version.
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Old 05-18-2007, 01:14 AM   #1002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
The more I read from and about Hudy, the less I like him.

"The engine mounts on some of the Novarossi engines may not fit perfectly on the NT1 engine mounts"

No Idiot, your f.cking engine mounts do not fit the Nova engines, simple as that.

But how could a world reknown top engineer with the most brilliant ideas ever, make a simple mistake like that.

So, you XRay deciples rather Dremel away on your engines....

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Old 05-18-2007, 04:39 AM   #1003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
I wasn't, it was on Wednesday ...
If we had a permanent track, I'd be sneaking out all the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
maybe you can't see it clearly in the download version of the video but in the original video you can see some damp patches as well as tiny blades of cut grass at every corner.
Perhaps you can upload a higher res version to http://www.veoh.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Like I said, the only thing I didn't like in the kit setup is that it sort of drifts out on corner exit. This can easily be fixed with a setup change or two.
The drift out wasn't that noticeable on the video. I guess you had to be there ... on a Wednesday, on an unswept track. I thought it was funny when I saw those clumps of grass and dirt and other debris on the track. I guess you couldn't wait. Too bad you didn't have your 720 with you for comparison. That would have been good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
The other are the pulleys, now rocking back and forth, especially the front middle one and I've only run 3 tanks in the car. Definitely needs a hop-up to the aluminum ones.
Hmmmm... Only 3 tanks? Maybe it's suppose to be that way.

So what's next? Are you going to race it? You definitely have to race it. Maybe do a 720 vs NT1 lap comparison after you change the setup on the NT1.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:57 AM   #1004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
If we had a permanent track, I'd be sneaking out all the time.
Oh man, I feel for you. To me, not having a permanent track for on-road is just a sin.

Hey! Its an opportunity, form a club, do one up, call it KB-Raceway!


Quote:
Perhaps you can upload a higher res version to http://www.veoh.com
I'll take a look tonight when I get home. Sometimes, after sneaking out, one has a guilty streak and now am in the office.


Quote:
The drift out wasn't that noticeable on the video. I guess you had to be there ... on a Wednesday, on an unswept track. I thought it was funny when I saw those clumps of grass and dirt and other debris on the track. I guess you couldn't wait. Too bad you didn't have your 720 with you for comparison. That would have been good.
Yes, actually I think a normal or new driver won't notice it all. Even with that kind of handling its still giving fast lap times on that track. Its just that if you want to break 14 secs, you would need to take that inner shoot tighter as you turn left and then off power, two of the corners need to be taken tight on exit.

Yes, both my 720s are in pieces getting prepared for the next Nationals race early June.


Quote:
Hmmmm... Only 3 tanks? Maybe it's suppose to be that way.
That's what I thought too ... kinda like F1, an engine only lasts two races, IF you're lucky!

Quote:
So what's next? Are you going to race it? You definitely have to race it. Maybe do a 720 vs NT1 lap comparison after you change the setup on the NT1.
Yes, I might do a comparison lap time with my stock 720 on the same track and even with the same engine. Later I'll do a comparison lap time with both cars after changing setups to suit each of them.
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Old 05-18-2007, 09:24 AM   #1005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
I've had some trouble with the clutch too, you should be carefull when you set the Clutch gap. How did you do that? Also, i'm using a gap of 0.55mm in stead of the 0.7mm which is in the manual... just to make the clutch easier.
If you have been running the car with a bad setting, and you are using the white clutch shoe (don't know which one is in the kit). Then check the clutch gap again because the white shoe wears pretty fast when the clutch isn't adjusted properly. This gives a bigger clutch gap!
I'm using the white shoe that came with the kit, and I set the gap with my caliper.
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