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Old 05-13-2007, 06:34 PM   #976
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Wayne Vince took his CAN WEST sponsored MAX powered XRAY NT1 to the A Win and New Track Record at the opening round of the Ontario 1/8 On Road Racing Club Track in Hamilton Ontario Canada.

Next Race is the CAN AM CHALLENGE RC PRO Race (Great Lakes Division) May 26-27 in HAMILTON Ontario CANADA
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:36 PM   #977
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Take a look at this Mugen swayblade that someone mounted on their NT1.

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Old 05-13-2007, 07:55 PM   #978
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http://teamxray.com/teamxray/news/ne...b1dc58857b5f9a

Xray NT1 came 2nd in China' biggest Race...... that was me
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:57 PM   #979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitracer
http://teamxray.com/teamxray/news/ne...b1dc58857b5f9a

Xray NT1 came 2nd in China' biggest Race...... that was me

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Old 05-13-2007, 07:58 PM   #980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitracer
http://teamxray.com/teamxray/news/ne...b1dc58857b5f9a

Xray NT1 came 2nd in China' biggest Race...... that was me
Congrats to you!! Glad to see the car is doing well...
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:00 PM   #981
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thats not my car with the mugen blade but i did fit it up before heading to the track and found out that the mugen ball ends on the blades are bigger than the xray joints and i didn't have time to retrofit before leaving so i left that project for this week .

i plan on adding some adjustable links as well for tweak adjustments

nice work on the blades
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:00 AM   #982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitracer
http://teamxray.com/teamxray/news/ne...b1dc58857b5f9a

Xray NT1 came 2nd in China' biggest Race...... that was me

Congrests man!
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:37 AM   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
yes sow the knuckles were a direct replacement , the bearing sizes are different so you need to use mugen bearings , cvd's and the ball joints .

here are pix of the mugen hard foam bumper and the mugen 136b knuckles

i agree 100% about the part interchangability if another brand part works to keep you racing do it.

it's all about finishing the race
Just wondering if you measured these points before and after replacing the front hub.

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Old 05-14-2007, 03:54 AM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Just wondering if you measured these points before and after replacing the front hub.


That's a very good point RMD, I did a quick check and from pivot to pivot, its about 30mm for both the NT1 and the MTX4's original uprights (actually its the same with the 720 too). I think the MTX4 type-B is the same, only difference is the lowered steering link/arm.
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Old 05-14-2007, 08:04 AM   #985
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to the best that i could measure it was the same using the 136 knuckle and using the 136b the only difference is the steering arm being in a lower position like sow said.
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:06 AM   #986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz
Yes... The OS 1040 L52 pipe... I have noticed when using this pipe, better performance from the OS engine and it did run cooler, but this could be my location I live a place that the devil himself comes to vacation... (remember most go to a place that is warmer then they are current at... ) Jackson, Mississippi... nothing like 98 Degrees and 100% humidity...
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:02 AM   #987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Thanks for the info and the photos. What are your thoughts on distributing the weight versus putting it in one place? Perhaps not equally and using the other holes in the chassis.

I have never done any static weight balancing or seen it discussed in the forum, so looking for some additional thoughts on this. Thanks!
The idea is to balance the car's left/right weight distribution to provide more symmetrical handling. I prefer to start with the ballast as close to the front/rear centerline since that yields the least impact on the car front/rear bias.

The best way to balance the car would be to use 4 scales with each wheel centered over 1 scale. With the car on the scales you would then add weight to the heavy side to make the left & right side of each end perfectly match while maintaining the front/rear weight differential.

Although scales are needed to make perfect adjustments I have found the simple balance pins to be much faster, easier and in practice just as good; providing you can place your ballast close to the front/rear center line.

With a Nitro car it is important to check balance both with dry and full tanks since most cars don't have their fuel load perfectly centered. After you figure the ballast required for both dry and full you should split the difference giving you the closest possible balance throughout each stint.


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Old 05-14-2007, 01:20 PM   #988
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Excellent write-up! Thanks Mark
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:24 PM   #989
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Novarossi Engine Mounting Tech Tip:
http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?p=51026#51026

If you own a Novarossi based engine, make sure you read this one.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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Old 05-15-2007, 05:21 PM   #990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitracer
http://teamxray.com/teamxray/news/ne...b1dc58857b5f9a

Xray NT1 came 2nd in China' biggest Race...... that was me
x ray lack the guts to show the competion again. what car was first?
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