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Old 05-13-2007, 12:41 AM   #961
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i should add that everything on my mugen is titainium . screws , pillow balls , tie rod link balls everything so im not sure if that is why i never had screws coming loose or not.

so far on the xray the upper shock mounting screws loosen up as do the camber link screws through the graphite camber bridge . non hardening blue locktite will fix that right up
come to think of it the tie rod came loose on the servo saver .

you gotta be careful what type locktite you use . you should use the non hardening type .

i tried the tamiya thread lock and it locked screws so tight , most stripped to remove.

another tip is to allow the locktite to dry before putting parts together that can be ruined by not so careful application of thread lock .
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Old 05-13-2007, 01:33 AM   #962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamMan
What's the purpose of the fifth body post in the center of the car in the third picture? I've only seen this on gas cars.

I made some pictures at the EC-B and i can actually see the body deforming from wind resistance... also, lot's of drivers have put the same bodypost that's in the bumper on the servo-saver, that way the body post is 'in' the windscreen itself... it's not allowed in some rules because there is only one window hole allowed, but it works beter... also, the body stays beter when you pick it up for refueling...
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:02 AM   #963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
back to the track today for a series event race , first with the nt1
during morning practice the dog bones only popped twice and only one broken knuckle , the heats were coming up and i wasnt about to throw my season away on a chance of any more breakage , out came the mugen knuckles , pivot balls and cvd's . i first ran the standard 136 mugen knuckles and the car felt the same , so i made the choice with some time left to change to the mugen 136b knuckle with a slightly lower tie rod attaching point .
the car lost it's very slight bump steer and man the thing was on rails

btw the mugen hard foam bumper can be used with no modifications

front mugen purple springs and rear mugen lt blue springs , lay the front shocks all the way down and lower the rear roll center by taking out the 2mm spacer , moved the 1/2 degree caster shim to the front of the arm for a lil more caster, decreased the camber to 1.5 front and 2 rear , close the front adjustable pistons so that 2 holes are open and all else was factory settings . this was the best car i have ever driven .

this was the final set up before the main and i nailed the set up, having qualified 4th in the expert a , this new set up allowed me to to put the car where ever i needed it to go ,
i was able to battle up to 2nd on the lead lap after 15 mins, i felt the car could do no wrong . upon leaving the pits after the third fuel stop my upper camber link came loose and ended my run .

one thing i never did on my mugen was use thread locking compound and i never had a problem but i am noticing a lot of screws work loose on this car , i guess it's time to use some locktite

no matter how slight my complaints of the car are ,one thing i cant deny is how good this car runs . it was glued to the track with all the steering you could ever ask for and the rear would stick no matter how much throttle i gave it . nirvana on nitro today .


cheers
Well, the weather is really misearable today and almost all of next week so I can't test drive the car but well done to you.

Sounds like you also did some creative parts swapping. So the Mugen CVDs and front uprights fit perfectly on the NT1?
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:04 AM   #964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
as for balance of the car i mounted a pressure compensator on the lower left of the chassis and the car balances perfect here are some pix of how i did it , the counter sunk screw holes came in handy and it seemed the logical place to mount this to add counter weight to the chassis .

cheers

That looks like a rather interesting replacement for the 3 little coupling springs for your muffler!
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:06 AM   #965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
honestly i dont think it's so much an upright problem as much as it is a terrible choice of foam for the bumper .
i realize in europe they have berms and grass in fields but in the states we have plow disc and 2x6 walls that are doubled up in some spots lol a dish washing sponge was the wrong choice to send to the states imho
Agree with you 100%.

Quote:
i can post pix of the bumper retrofit and knuckle/cvd retro if anyone cares
Yes please!
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:39 AM   #966
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Fellas,

Since the car is a combination of the best of the Serpent 720, Mugen MTX4, and Kyosho VoneRRR, before you sell you cars, compare parts between the NT1 and whatever you have to see what parts my be comparable. This way, you would know what may work in a pinch if you break something and don't have the Xray part in your stash. Just a thought.
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:45 AM   #967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
That looks like a rather interesting replacement for the 3 little coupling springs for your muffler!
that is not a replacement for the springs on the coupler .
it is called nashua stretch and seal silicone tape

you can find it in the plumbing department

we wrap it over the pipe joint springs and all to keep it sealed and in place , since using it i have never had a leak or the pipe joint fail during a crash . the stuff has no sticky glue and after stretching and wraping your pipe it somehow bonds to itself forming a solid silicone seal pretty neat trick i learned from a couple of the guys at my local track .

highly recomended

Last edited by Nitrogasm; 05-13-2007 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:55 AM   #968
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yes sow the knuckles were a direct replacement , the bearing sizes are different so you need to use mugen bearings , cvd's and the ball joints .

here are pix of the mugen hard foam bumper and the mugen 136b knuckles

i agree 100% about the part interchangability if another brand part works to keep you racing do it.

it's all about finishing the race
Attached Thumbnails
Xray NT1-picture-029.jpg   Xray NT1-picture-030.jpg   Xray NT1-picture-034.jpg  
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:02 PM   #969
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Xray presents authentic option parts for XRAY NT1:
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...p?news_id=1124

331201 Composite Wide Bumper

331211 Composite Front Holder for Personal Transponder

331215 Graphite Upper Holder for Bumper

331221 Foam Bumper - Hard
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:57 PM   #970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
I used X-ray screw in weights from an old T1 kit. In the first photo you can see the weights on the chassis next to the battery & the centered bubble in the setup board's level. The 2nd photo shows where they are screwed into the chassis.

Mark
Thanks for the info and the photos. What are your thoughts on distributing the weight versus putting it in one place? Perhaps not equally and using the other holes in the chassis.

I have never done any static weight balancing or seen it discussed in the forum, so looking for some additional thoughts on this. Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2007, 01:18 PM   #971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
yes sow the knuckles were a direct replacement , the bearing sizes are different so you need to use mugen bearings , cvd's and the ball joints .

here are pix of the mugen hard foam bumper and the mugen 136b knuckles

i agree 100% about the part interchangability if another brand part works to keep you racing do it.

it's all about finishing the race
What is your front trackwidth? Looks like your CVD pins are really inset - or maybe it's just the photos. How is the suspension travel with regard to the CVDs? Do the shafts touch the outdrive?
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Old 05-13-2007, 03:01 PM   #972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What is your front trackwidth? Looks like your CVD pins are really inset - or maybe it's just the photos. How is the suspension travel with regard to the CVDs? Do the shafts touch the outdrive?
the track width is right about 197-198 .
the suspension up travel does not bind from the cvd's they are close to the end on the diff cups but upon full compression you still have 1.5-2mm to go
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Old 05-13-2007, 03:06 PM   #973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLock
Fellas,

Since the car is a combination of the best of the Serpent 720, Mugen MTX4, and Kyosho VoneRRR, before you sell you cars, compare parts between the NT1 and whatever you have to see what parts my be comparable. This way, you would know what may work in a pinch if you break something and don't have the Xray part in your stash. Just a thought.
Good point, I should have thought of that when I was building it for the review article.
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Old 05-13-2007, 03:09 PM   #974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
that is not a replacement for the springs on the coupler .
it is called nashua stretch and seal silicone tape

you can find it in the plumbing department

we wrap it over the pipe joint springs and all to keep it sealed and in place , since using it i have never had a leak or the pipe joint fail during a crash . the stuff has no sticky glue and after stretching and wraping your pipe it somehow bonds to itself forming a solid silicone seal pretty neat trick i learned from a couple of the guys at my local track .

highly recomended
Ah right, I need to look for some!
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Old 05-13-2007, 03:09 PM   #975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
yes sow the knuckles were a direct replacement , the bearing sizes are different so you need to use mugen bearings , cvd's and the ball joints .

here are pix of the mugen hard foam bumper and the mugen 136b knuckles

i agree 100% about the part interchangability if another brand part works to keep you racing do it.

it's all about finishing the race
Thanks for confirmation.
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