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Old 05-12-2007, 10:49 AM   #946
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:50 AM   #947
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We use the 5th body post in nitro cars to reinforce the body and keep the hood window area from deforming down the straight. With the hole in the front window and the rear & side windows cut out our bodies need a little help maintaining shape.

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Old 05-12-2007, 10:55 AM   #948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamMan
What's the purpose of the fifth body post in the center of the car in the third picture? I've only seen this on gas cars.
If you race on a track with a fast flowing layout and/or with a long straight, it prevents the bonnet from flexing or "collapsing".
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:56 AM   #949
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Old 05-12-2007, 11:47 AM   #950
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Slow ~ I measured 34.8mm on both of my RRRs. (It's about 34.82/.83 using a digital)
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Old 05-12-2007, 11:50 AM   #951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
We use the 5th body post in nitro cars to reinforce the body and keep the hood window area from deforming down the straight. With the hole in the front window and the rear & side windows cut out our bodies need a little help maintaining shape.

Mark
Every time you post something, I learn something new - in all the threads. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
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Old 05-12-2007, 01:49 PM   #952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Slow ~ I measured 34.8mm on both of my RRRs. (It's about 34.82/.83 using a digital)
Ah OK, thanks buddy, will go change the info now.
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Old 05-12-2007, 09:55 PM   #953
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back to the track today for a series event race , first with the nt1
during morning practice the dog bones only popped twice and only one broken knuckle , the heats were coming up and i wasnt about to throw my season away on a chance of any more breakage , out came the mugen knuckles , pivot balls and cvd's . i first ran the standard 136 mugen knuckles and the car felt the same , so i made the choice with some time left to change to the mugen 136b knuckle with a slightly lower tie rod attaching point .
the car lost it's very slight bump steer and man the thing was on rails

btw the mugen hard foam bumper can be used with no modifications

front mugen purple springs and rear mugen lt blue springs , lay the front shocks all the way down and lower the rear roll center by taking out the 2mm spacer , moved the 1/2 degree caster shim to the front of the arm for a lil more caster, decreased the camber to 1.5 front and 2 rear , close the front adjustable pistons so that 1 hole is open and all else was factory settings . this was the best car i have ever driven .

this was the final set up before the main and i nailed the set up, having qualified 4th in the expert a , this new set up allowed me to to put the car where ever i needed it to go ,
i was able to battle up to 2nd on the lead lap after 15 mins, i felt the car could do no wrong . upon leaving the pits after the third fuel stop my upper camber link came loose and ended my run .

one thing i never did on my mugen was use thread locking compound and i never had a problem but i am noticing a lot of screws work loose on this car , i guess it's time to use some locktite

no matter how slight my complaints of the car are ,one thing i cant deny is how good this car runs . it was glued to the track with all the steering you could ever ask for and the rear would stick no matter how much throttle i gave it . nirvana on nitro today .


cheers

Last edited by Nitrogasm; 05-13-2007 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:05 PM   #954
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as for balance of the car i mounted a pressure compensator on the lower left of the chassis and the car balances perfect here are some pix of how i did it , the counter sunk screw holes came in handy and it seemed the logical place to mount this to add counter weight to the chassis .

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Xray NT1-nt2.jpg   Xray NT1-picture-009.jpg   Xray NT1-picture-012.jpg  
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:17 PM   #955
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Wow, that was a good read and congrats on the retrofits. Sounds like a good idea, too bad theres the dob-bone and upright problem. Sounds pretty weird if you ask me especially after reading the long xray build, it sounded as if they bullet proofed this sucker, but I guess not. Thats why I always wait on kits. With a resource as valuable as rctech, you always know what your going to bite into, no matter what.

My mugen always seems to be working screws loose. Im pretty annoyed with how much I have to loctite things. Its a must for me on the mugen.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:21 PM   #956
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honestly i dont think it's so much an upright problem as much as it is a terrible choice of foam for the bumper .
i realize in europe they have berms and grass in fields but in the states we have plow disc and 2x6 walls that are doubled up in some spots lol a dish washing sponge was the wrong choice to send to the states imho

i can post pix of the bumper retrofit and knuckle/cvd retro if anyone cares
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:46 PM   #957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
My mugen always seems to be working screws loose. Im pretty annoyed with how much I have to loctite things. Its a must for me on the mugen.
I always loctite metal-on-metal on all my cars. Are you talking about the screws coming coming loose on the plastic?
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:51 PM   #958
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.. double post.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:52 PM   #959
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Any company that puts out a car with dog bones is just asking for trouble. Their Pro drivers may not hit anything, but the rest of us do. If a car doesn't come with CVDs, that is usually at the top of the list to be upgraded. It's great that the NT1's dog bones are made of Hudy steel, but that doesn't mean anything if it's lying out on the track.
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Old 05-12-2007, 11:28 PM   #960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I always loctite metal-on-metal on all my cars. Are you talking about the screws coming coming loose on the plastic?
Well I could usually get away with it on other cars. I guess the threaded balls and screws its really needed. Guess going off the above post that he didnt need it on the mugen does make me think hmmmm.
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