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Old 05-04-2007, 03:06 PM   #826
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano
Almost done with my car...Love the quality second to known...So far know problems.Also like the sealed receiver box.....
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:12 PM   #827
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Rear section done, build review on 3hobby.net soon ... already got some tips to share with everyone.
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:16 PM   #828
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Rear section done, build review on 3hobby.net soon ... already got some tips to share with everyone.
THANKS
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:20 PM   #829
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Pleasure.
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:07 AM   #830
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Originally Posted by PhatPat
Any road test? How is this car on the track?
This car is great.... I like it more then a my RRR.... Right on of the box, it was as fast as the RRR, then the work began.... about 1 sec a lap better now... and more stuff to try.... The drive train is very free compared to the RRR. My RRR was setup by a factory driver, so this car is and has been on point all race season.... Tostie from Xray drove it, and made some changes... He also has driven a Ron Atomic setup RRR and well..... The NT1 is on point....
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:32 AM   #831
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Did anyone else struggle with installing the big set screws that hold the pivot balls in the hubs. It was everything I could do to put them in without cross threading them. The rears took about 30-45 minutes and I managed to chew up the inside of the hubs.

Is there a trick to them?
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:46 AM   #832
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I used a tool that had a flange on it so that I could keep the nut strait. I've had it for a few years, but I think that it is the tool they list in the book.
Tool #107581 Its a clutchnut/glowplug wrench
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:54 AM   #833
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Originally Posted by bvoltz
This car is great.... I like it more then a my RRR.
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Old 05-05-2007, 02:19 AM   #834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamMan
Did anyone else struggle with installing the big set screws that hold the pivot balls in the hubs. It was everything I could do to put them in without cross threading them. The rears took about 30-45 minutes and I managed to chew up the inside of the hubs.

Is there a trick to them?
Yes, there is a trick to them - but it is hard to explain over the Internet.

Not sure about the NT1 kit, but the RRR comes with a large L-shaped hex wrench. Use the short end on the screw cap. The key is to catch the first thread correctly on the first 1/2 turn and make sure it's straight, then check it every 1/8th turn. If it starts so go crooked, you back it out and kinda force it straight. Once you've done a full turn and it's crooked, you have to back it out and start again. If it's straight after the first full turn, keep turning and checking every 1/8th turn until it's done.

Don't worry, after you've stripped a few hubs, you'll be a pro at it and won't have to back it out very often.
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Old 05-05-2007, 02:53 PM   #835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Don't worry, after you've stripped a few hubs, you'll be a pro at it and won't have to back it out very often.



I'm glad that I've been so behind on starting my build...I've picked up some good notes on these last couple of pages .
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Old 05-05-2007, 02:59 PM   #836
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Originally Posted by Nexus Racing



I'm glad that I've been so behind on starting my build...I've picked up some good notes on these last couple of pages .
Patience is a virtue.

I've completed the rear section and just starting on the upper deck. When I'm at my desk building, there is a shitty old webcam switched on which you can view from within 3hobby.net (like now, 10pm GMT).

I want to start writing the build article but I'm also dying to race and tomorrow there's a club race on ... article will have to wait till Monday.
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Old 05-05-2007, 03:16 PM   #837
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can anyone shed some light on building these xray shocks , i am having trouble getting the rebound adjusted and keep getting air in the shock .
i am able to build the shock fine without any air bubbles but i am getting 100% rebound , after performing the rebound adjustment as per the instructions i cant get the rebound below 75% and i end up with air in the shocks .
im sure the t2 guys know some tricks.

also can someone explain the adjustment procedure for the front sway bar mount eccentrics .
i understand it is too make the sway bar equal left and right but how high or low do you initially set the adjustment . and at what point during chassis set up do you adust the eccentrics .
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Old 05-05-2007, 04:02 PM   #838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
can anyone shed some light on building these xray shocks , i am having trouble getting the rebound adjusted and keep getting air in the shock .
i am able to build the shock fine without any air bubbles but i am getting 100% rebound , after performing the rebound adjustment as per the instructions i cant get the rebound below 75% and i end up with air in the shocks .
im sure the t2 guys know some tricks.
also can someone explain the adjustment procedure for the front sway bar mount eccentrics .
i understand it is too make the sway bar equal left and right but how high or low do you initially set the adjustment . and at what point during chassis set up do you adust the eccentrics .
Here are some instructions on how to built shocks (2nd post from top), then follow a link there on how to bleed them.
I didn't start on front suspension yet, but the way I normally do it is set both eccentric holders so that both point up (or out), disconnect front sway bar and set downstop then re-connect the sway bar. If the downstop value changed adjust it with eccentric.

Last edited by GK; 05-05-2007 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 05-05-2007, 04:16 PM   #839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogasm
can anyone shed some light on building these xray shocks , i am having trouble getting the rebound adjusted and keep getting air in the shock .
i am able to build the shock fine without any air bubbles but i am getting 100% rebound , after performing the rebound adjustment as per the instructions i cant get the rebound below 75% and i end up with air in the shocks .
im sure the t2 guys know some tricks.
Make sure you bleed them from the bottom only...bleeding them from the top is a door you do not want to open.

I only mention this because this is a part of the T2 manual that many people overlook.
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Old 05-06-2007, 08:52 PM   #840
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Default first run impressions , the good the bad and the ugly

took the nt1 out for the first time today and i thought i would share my findings with everyone

btw thanks for the sway bar eccentric and shock building help fellas , fixxed me right up.

i had been racing the mtx-4 up until today , the mugen has got me into a tie for 2nd place in the speedworld nitro series expert class .

here we go the good the bad and the ugly of the xray

build fit and finish are excellent , lots of small ideas make this car great from the box.
two that come to mind are the hex heads on the ends of the front sway blades and the other are the cylindrical bearings in the 2 speed clutch . there are ton of other great thoughts into the car too.

the car using the factory set up sheet has plenty of steering and is well planted to the track . it was loose in the rear but wasn't bad .
i always run a spool at speedworld so i ran it in the nt1 as well , the first driving adjustment i had to make was letting off the gas earlier than the mugen because the car's drive train is so free it coasts like a one way . very good
the car will not scrub speed with a spool like the mugen did.

so now that we know it handles very good and solid right out of the box lets hear the bad and the ugly.

dog bones were popping out without hitting anything , the front track width was set to factory spec , even using fuel tubing inside the diff cups i still lost dog bones , so i start triming back the steering dual rate until the dog bones stopped coming out . lost all the good usable steering fixxing it this way. my next fix was to narrow the track width down to 195 . the dog bones stopped coming out but now the tie rods were too long to adjust for toe out . grrrr

i seriously didnt make a full tank of fuel without dog bones coming out all day . very lame , where the hell are the cvd's xray ? why would you put a kit on the market without them in this highly competitive market .

here comes the ugly .

the front bumper foam is no better than a sponge to do your dishes with offering ZERO protection .
pair this lame soft foam with a mini lower plastic bumper and you have the recipe to sell tons of front uprights.

i smoked 3 front uprights in the three times i contacted the boards . mugen never failed me there .

not only myself but a few other drivers felt after seeing the very weakest bumper foam on the planet, this was a dirty sales tactic by xray to sell more initial parts from damage.
the front end basically has no protection ! cmon xray the hard foam is no more expensive than the the soft foam you included.

front uprights are of extremly brittle plastic .hits of very light magnitude destroyed the uprights . i am sure the mugen serpent and g4s's would have survived these light hits .


how could a company bring so many great new ideas to the game but fail so horribly on the simple stuff .

fair warning to all, buy the hard foam option bumper and also get the lower wide pastic bumper ,which btw are both standard parts on every other car .

also dont waste your time until you get cvd's , save the frustration.

sorry to be so negative on the nt1 but it really let me down over and over and over today .

i hope mr hudy sees this and fixes these few things . the car will be great but xray fumbled the ball badly on the smallest and simplest of things.
honestly i dont think the bumper was a fumble it's more like a poor idea to sell more parts . because i cant think of any other reason an "Master Engineer" would include such worthless foam for a bumper.
think good and hard about this issue !

unless i get the option cvd's and jimmy rig the mugen bumper to the nt1 next weeks points series race will be with the mugen .
even though the xray feels better on the track , durability issues wont win races , i'll take a slower car that wont break please.

Last edited by Nitrogasm; 05-06-2007 at 10:06 PM.
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