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Old 07-17-2013, 10:52 PM   #6901
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Not much action here on this thread, so here's another dumb question! How do u adjust gear mesh if there's no slots on the bottom of the chassis to slide the engine mount farther or closer to the spurs?
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:26 AM   #6902
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Not much action here on this thread, so here's another dumb question! How do u adjust gear mesh if there's no slots on the bottom of the chassis to slide the engine mount farther or closer to the spurs?
There `s no chuch thing like a dumb question , only dumb answers

Xray are the only brand ( i think)who have a system where the engine is adjusted/meshed with the engine bolts once. After that all spurs and pinions are the same diam.
So you can change it without moving the engine. It will mesh.

Its great.
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:38 AM   #6903
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Not much action here on this thread, so here's another dumb question! How do u adjust gear mesh if there's no slots on the bottom of the chassis to slide the engine mount farther or closer to the spurs?
I had this issue too. All you have to do is tighten the screws one by one. You can actually apply a little force to the engine to bring the pinions closer or further away to get the desired mesh. I tried a few different motors some mesh easily and some need a little help.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:08 AM   #6904
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Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
Xray are the only brand ( i think)who have a system where the engine is adjusted/meshed with the engine bolts once. After that all spurs and pinions are the same diam.
So you can change it without moving the engine. It will mesh.
Kyosho also uses 0.8 module gears.
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:57 PM   #6905
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Anybody need front cvd's? http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-hudy-cvd.html
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:57 AM   #6906
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Wanted to post some pics of my car all ready for the Euro's in Austria next month but f#%ked if I could work out how to do it!!
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:40 AM   #6907
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Need some suggestions on how to get rid of an off power push on corner entry. My next step is to narrow out the rear track width from 200 to 199, 198. Add more droop in the rear to make the front dive more?
Just a question, does anyone run dive or anti dive? or is it just not possible because only the upper arm will be angled I'm front?
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:25 PM   #6908
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Need some suggestions on how to get rid of an off power push on corner entry. My next step is to narrow out the rear track width from 200 to 199, 198. Add more droop in the rear to make the front dive more?
Just a question, does anyone run dive or anti dive? or is it just not possible because only the upper arm will be angled I'm front?
How about changing tires combination ?

Front : 35
Rear : 40 or 42
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:22 PM   #6909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Need some suggestions on how to get rid of an off power push on corner entry. My next step is to narrow out the rear track width from 200 to 199, 198. Add more droop in the rear to make the front dive more?
Just a question, does anyone run dive or anti dive? or is it just not possible because only the upper arm will be angled I'm front?

Did you try one of the below?

  • Soften front spring
  • Softer front Diff oil
  • Change Caster
  • Use more front camber
  • Change Toe
  • make front more flex
  • etc....
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:02 PM   #6910
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How about changing tires combination ?

Front : 35
Rear : 40 or 42

I'm running 35 front and 37 rears.
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:06 PM   #6911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikoskar View Post
Did you try one of the below?

  • Soften front spring
  • Softer front Diff oil
  • Change Caster
  • Use more front camber
  • Change Toe
  • make front more flex
  • etc....
Had a softer front spring the week before and lighter diff oil in front also.
Changed caster to less and helped a little
Front camber is at 2.5 left and right
Didn't mess with front toe since I'm at 1* right now
How can I make front flex more without cutting top deck?
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:37 PM   #6912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Had a softer front spring the week before and lighter diff oil in front also.
Changed caster to less and helped a little
Front camber is at 2.5 left and right
Didn't mess with front toe since I'm at 1* right now
How can I make front flex more without cutting top deck?
Try 1.5 on the toe an 32/37 on the tires.....srs body by protoform give u more steering....
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:57 AM   #6913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Had a softer front spring the week before and lighter diff oil in front also.
Changed caster to less and helped a little
Front camber is at 2.5 left and right
Didn't mess with front toe since I'm at 1* right now
How can I make front flex more without cutting top deck?
If you don't have the new top deck and you don't want to cut it you can't.
Or you can cut it and save the carbon part in order when you want to reinstall it.

Remove toe from rear
If your track is high traction change to P37 otherwise use SRS.
You can change to 2013 chassis gives you more steering.
Change front and rear roll centers
Also changing front droop can help you, less is better in on power.

Also file attached can help you in most cases.

Hope those things will be useful.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf XRAY NT1 Quick Reference Table.pdf (52.4 KB, 147 views)
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:04 AM   #6914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
I'm running 35 front and 37 rears.
I think I would go with 35 and 40 combination,

However, if you wish to keep your current 35 and 37 tires combination, I think reducing rear track width 199 or 198 , or reducing rear toe-in, is good idea too.
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:06 PM   #6915
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Definitely less rear toe, going to do that along with rear track width. Also think it was the track that particular day since I wasn't the only one experiencing this. I like a lot of steering, coming from a kyosho RRR, that steered like a mofo
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