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Old 05-12-2013, 01:37 AM   #6766
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So I'm running a front gear diff and was wanting to try a solid axle for a different feel. I ran across a thing called a Composite Diff Square which replaces the spider/bevel gears (guts of a gear diff) to convert it into a solid axle. Also came across a product made by 3 Racing called an Aluminum Solid square which does the same thing. Anyways I was wondering if any of you guys have seen, heard, or currently use these Squares in your gear diff and do they work well. Thanks in advance.
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I have both, an Xray spool and a composit diff locker you're welcome to try.......
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:47 PM   #6767
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Thanks Lynn, I may take your offer on it.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:55 PM   #6768
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The 2013 kit included the composite plastic square but I haven't tried it yet.

What Lipo and battery tray are you guys running? I just got my first nt1 and as I mention before it was tuff jamming it into the space. I dremeled the shit out of the plastic tray to flatten it out and cut off the balancing connector and it's still hard to get the wire around to the receiver box. Yes I am using a bat. wire extension thats mounted on top of the receiver box.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #6769
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The 2013 kit included the composite plastic square but I haven't tried it yet.

What Lipo and battery tray are you guys running? I just got my first nt1 and as I mention before it was tuff jamming it into the space. I dremeled the shit out of the plastic tray to flatten it out and cut off the balancing connector and it's still hard to get the wire around to the receiver box. Yes I am using a bat. wire extension thats mounted on top of the receiver box.
I too had to dremel the crap out of the composite battery tray that comes with the 13 kit. You have to take off all of the rounded ends (edges intended for nimh cells) off until you get the edge to be flush with the part of the tray where you put the screws in. It should be flat enough to fit your battery after that. I had issues with the balancing plug as well but you just have to make the plug wires face the rear and pass the wire between the rx box and the radio tray mount. you have the raise the top deck slightly in order to pass the connector through. It will seem as though you don't have enough space but once you put everything back in place the wire will move freely and it won't be an issue. You will have to use an extension piece to not strain the wire if you do it this way. If you swap the rx box to the graphite plate you won't have that issue but you will have all of your electronics exposed. I'll post up pics in a bit.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:40 PM   #6770
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sounds like you snaked the wire around when the top deck was off? i actually did that and that makes sense but i was obsessed with finding an easier way. Yes please send pics, and the battery you use. Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:50 PM   #6771
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sounds like you snaked the wire around when the top deck was off? i actually did that and that makes sense but i was obsessed with finding an easier way. Yes please send pics, and the battery you use. Thanks!
You actually don't need to take the top deck off. When I did it I didn't remove it all the way, I just loosened all the screws to move it enough to slide the plug through because I was testing whether or not the wire could move freely after the top deck was in the position its supposed to be in. Below is the link to the life battery I used. They also sell a 1200 version which I also purchased but the size is only different by about 1mm or so. The 1600 fits with no issues once you dremel the battery tray down.

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=13713
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:06 PM   #6772
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:03 AM   #6773
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Anyone have any set ups for the 2013??
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:56 AM   #6774
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You actually don't need to take the top deck off. When I did it I didn't remove it all the way, I just loosened all the screws to move it enough to slide the plug through because I was testing whether or not the wire could move freely after the top deck was in the position its supposed to be in.[/url]
Thanks Goose! That looks about like what I have. Also I glued the plastic switch cover onto the Rx box lid with C/A glue. This will prevent fuel from getting in. If you need all the clearance under the switch, what I did was cut off all the depth in that switch cover piece and sanded it down from the bottom side so that it is very thin, and then I put two grub screws into the holes of the lid of the box. Maybe overkill but it is clean and will keep stuff out.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:10 AM   #6775
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personally i run the wires threw the center of the top tray mount to help in possible pinched or cut wires
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:24 AM   #6776
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Has anyone on this thread ever race on rubber tires.
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:27 PM   #6777
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Anyone have any set ups for the 2013??
Just been running stock setup, lacking some mid corner steering at the moment even compared to my 2012.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:42 PM   #6778
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Just been running stock setup, lacking some mid corner steering at the moment even compared to my 2012.
Thanks BB
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:30 PM   #6779
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goose
I do believe that the non flex washers are suppose to go on top of the upper deck
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:33 PM   #6780
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Alexander hagberg says to go harder in the shock setup.
run 4x 1.0 holes with 700wt shock oil all round.
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