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Old 04-15-2013, 06:30 PM   #6706
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Welcome to the dark side!!!
I will wait till they get into the states.....

Last edited by Team STPN; 04-15-2013 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:40 PM   #6707
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Welcome to the dark side!!!
I will wait till they get into the states.....

How nice for you....


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What parts u get Scotty?
I got the bulkheads, frt arms, frt bars and mounts, roll bar. Just didnt get the chassis, towers and the short shocks... Yet...
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:35 PM   #6708
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hey just wanted to know if any body has come across this before, got a kit 2011 NT1 from a mate I race with still sealed in box, I have just started to build it and when doing the diffs last night I opened one of the kits and the O-ring was twisted up like a cork screw, and I cant get it to relax into a circle at all, the other diff kit was fine O-ring fits straight in, any ideas on what to do? before I order a new one, (not happy with Xray my other kit had wrong springs all rear springs)

I think Xray need to keep it separate or at lease put a spare one in
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:16 PM   #6709
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hey just wanted to know if any body has come across this before, got a kit 2011 NT1 from a mate I race with still sealed in box, I have just started to build it and when doing the diffs last night I opened one of the kits and the O-ring was twisted up like a cork screw, and I cant get it to relax into a circle at all, the other diff kit was fine O-ring fits straight in, any ideas on what to do? before I order a new one, (not happy with Xray my other kit had wrong springs all rear springs)

I think Xray need to keep it separate or at lease put a spare one in
Sounds like you may need a new one. Try rolling it back and forth on a cylindrical object. Maybe that motion will get it to untwist and relax back to its normal state. IDK worth a shot.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:09 AM   #6710
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i`ve got the LP shocks and noticed that xray made a lot off play in them.
I Always removed play on my shocks and its mandatory in 12 scale to get the car right but with this new LP shocks its purposely made.

can someone explaine to me how this works? removing play has Always made my car better?

does anyone know why xray did this? (i`ve read on the site but thats no explanation)
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:35 AM   #6711
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What date will the new 2013 car coming to the U.S.?
Anyone know besides Scott B??
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:26 PM   #6712
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What date will the new 2013 car coming to the U.S.?
Anyone know besides Scott B??
Should be out to team drivers who ordered one within a week or so and soon followed by everyone else.
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:03 AM   #6713
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Does anyone know the differences between clutch spring 338580 (included in 2012) and 338581 (included in 2013)?

I found the 2012 spring too hard for my poor little OS Tg and wondered if the new one is any softer?
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:22 PM   #6714
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Default My 2013 is ready!!!

My first new kit!











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Old 04-23-2013, 09:32 PM   #6715
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My first new kit!












Wow.... really nice!!!.

Just a suggestion.
With the 1251 savox servo as throttle control, you can mount it below the top deck (servo mounts go below top deck instead of 'sitting' on top of the deck).
You should get lower CG.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:50 PM   #6716
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I ordered a new kit as well. Just waiting on delivery from RC America. I hate building these things but its time I built a new car.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:14 PM   #6717
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Wow.... really nice!!!.

Just a suggestion.
With the 1251 savox servo as throttle control, you can mount it below the top deck (servo mounts go below top deck instead of 'sitting' on top of the deck).
You should get lower CG.
Yeah you know I first placed it under the chassis but after building the throttle linkage I didn't like the angle of the throttle linkage because it flows up going from the rear to the front making the connections bind a bit. I just changed it again to under the chassis and I flipped the servo horn around and it's a little better. My OCD will most likely make me change it back because the linkage was super smooth and perfectly level when the servo sat on top of the chassis. I wonder if this will really make a significant difference in terms of CG, I'm not sure that I'm fast/good enough to really notice that difference.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:16 PM   #6718
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Originally Posted by goose510 View Post
Yeah you know I first placed it under the chassis but after building the throttle linkage I didn't like the angle of the throttle linkage because it flows up going from the rear to the front making the connections bind a bit. I just changed it again to under the chassis and I flipped the servo horn around and it's a little better. My OCD will most likely make me change it back because the linkage was super smooth and perfectly level when the servo sat on top of the chassis. I wonder if this will really make a significant difference in terms of CG, I'm not sure that I'm fast/good enough to really notice that difference.
Adjust the ball on the carb so the link is straight or just bend the link a little to keep it inline. Easy fix man!!!

Oh ya, and get a couple longer turnbuckles for the rear camber link so you can mount it in the inner holes with out it falling apart.
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:09 AM   #6719
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And my plan is, if it is not as fast for Byrons, i will send it to Murnan for GLC..
If your going to go so far as to send uriah an engine, just buy one of his engines off the shelf or get a Massimo Fantini modified engine. I have played the what is the fastest engine of the day game. IMO the Massimo engines have the best power to fuel economy, the murnan engines generally have a lot of power but there is some tradeoff in fuel economy. The last main I ran I was running about a lap more than everyone else with more power and better lap times. Once your past being able to tune any given engine worth a crap, and you can drive the car without crashing 90% of the time. Then engine matters more. But with all things being equil, go with a MAX or Murnan out of the box.

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I found the 2012 spring too hard for my poor little OS Tg and wondered if the new one is any softer?
They are both labeled the same "rate" so I would guess that it was just a material or diameter change to make the spring last longer. All things being equal I would guess it is the same rate or a little stiffer than 2012. I haven't found springs to be to stiff, usually personally I am looking for stiffer springs. However you can compensate by not using grub screws, lightening the shoes by cutting them, reducing preload, and using a different clutch shoe (if your using the standard xca you can use the white shoe if you were using yellow, if using red you can use the yellow. ) all the mentioned acts with reduce punch. Before you do that make sure your tune is correct. If you want a bit more power even with the untuned engines you can use a 5.5mm restrictor for a little more juice. (most engines come with a 5.4.
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:17 AM   #6720
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double post
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