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Old 12-10-2012, 06:46 PM   #6556
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Hey guys, I just started building my pro kit. In step 2, the glued brake pad set says to have the round holes oriented on top and oval on the bottom with fiber pads facing together.
The problem is one pad must have been glued on the wrong side because to face the fiber side together the hole are opposite. Should I mount them as is with 1 round and 1 oval on top and bottom or just get another set?
Thanks
You should be fine, but an FYI, the pro kit should have came with the new efficient brakes. If not, go buy the new efficient brake pads which are already pre-glued and have the small spring to place in between the brake pads:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...p?prod_id=4189

see the note, hole orientation does not matter
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:53 PM   #6557
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Yes it came with the efficient brakes. The manual doesn't have the orientation note. Do these pads require longer screws?
Thanks again.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:27 PM   #6558
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Yes it came with the efficient brakes. The manual doesn't have the orientation note. Do these pads require longer screws?
Thanks again.
I believe the normal brakes use an M3x12, you will be ok with these screws but they obviously wont thread all they way to the edge of the bulkhead. If u have an M3x14 use that, if not, you will be ok with the M3x12. Orientation doesn't matter for the efficient brake pads. Put the old ones aside and install the new ones.
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:29 PM   #6559
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Quick question The NT1 2011 car, Am i able to use 2012 parts and is the 2011 model upgradable to the 2012 spec car?

Whats can i upgrade and what can't i upgrade??

Im happy with the 2011 but just wanted to know so when i order options i know they will fit.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:08 PM   #6560
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Originally Posted by shakey78 View Post
Quick question The NT1 2011 car, Am i able to use 2012 parts and is the 2011 model upgradable to the 2012 spec car?

Whats can i upgrade and what can't i upgrade??

Im happy with the 2011 but just wanted to know so when i order options i know they will fit.
Yes the model is upgradable to the '12. Everything from the '12 you can use on the '11. The major changes are the chassis, lower CG and top plate. Everything else is pretty much the same. Some upgrades i would definitely grab are the new brakes and some lightweight drive train parts if you don't already have them
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:08 PM   #6561
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
Yes the model is upgradable to the '12. Everything from the '12 you can use on the '11. The major changes are the chassis, lower CG and top plate. Everything else is pretty much the same. Some upgrades i would definitely grab are the new brakes and some lightweight drive train parts if you don't already have them
Sweet thats what I thought thanks for that esckalayd
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:12 AM   #6562
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Some upgrades i would definitely grab are the new brakes and some lightweight drive train parts if you don't already have them
What are the benefits of the new brakes?? Haven`t read anything about them.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:51 AM   #6563
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What are the benefits of the new brakes?? Haven`t read anything about them.
Previous brake was great, the new brake is excellent. Literally no fade under heavy use circumstances. More material for longer life, and a spring to keep the disk and pad separated when not braking. Also, no assembly and glue required.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:40 AM   #6564
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Previous brake was great, the new brake is excellent. Literally no fade under heavy use circumstances. More material for longer life, and a spring to keep the disk and pad separated when not braking. Also, no assembly and glue required.
like this on my nt1
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:37 PM   #6565
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Default NT1 For Sale

NT1 For Sale here....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...or-extras.html
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:38 PM   #6566
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Previous brake was great, the new brake is excellent. Literally no fade under heavy use circumstances. More material for longer life, and a spring to keep the disk and pad separated when not braking. Also, no assembly and glue required.
A big +1 for not having to glue the pads and getting super glue or CA glue on your fingers.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #6567
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Default Anti-Roll Bar

Is their other advantages of using the optional Anti-Roll Bar over the stock wire one besides adjustability?
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:56 AM   #6568
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Is their other advantages of using the optional Anti-Roll Bar over the stock wire one besides adjustability?
Quick adjust ability is the only benefit. It is interesting that the pro kit comes with this rear anti-roll bar since no pro uses it (that i have seen). Most of the guys prefer the consistency of the wire bar. Even with the upgraded one, laid flat (0 degrees) it gives the car more steering than a wire bar because it is a stiffer system over the 2.2mm wire bar. Not to mention it is tweaked more than a simple wire, which will throw off droop.

That being said, i have used it and done well with it. I would tell you to give it a try and if it doesn't work for you, go back to the wire system.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:33 PM   #6569
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Guys,

Can I get an estimate of what's different on the 12 Pro to the 11?

I am considering getting a new 11 as a parts car, but wondering if its worth it.

Is the ally chassis the same?

Cheers
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:14 AM   #6570
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Guys,

Can I get an estimate of what's different on the 12 Pro to the 11?

I am considering getting a new 11 as a parts car, but wondering if its worth it.

Is the ally chassis the same?

Cheers
NR
The only real difference between the 12 and the 11 is the top plate is cut out for more steering and the center of gravity of the car was lowered a bit. The 12 pro kit comes with lightweight differential pins, not sure if the 11 pro had those or not.

The 11 and 12 chassis are both the same allowing for weight integration.
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