you have any idea why the alu & plastic holder are different in design????? :confused::confused:

I mean XRAY 1st made the alu holder same design as plastic, but now, they changed to this new design (which I think is heavier now).

Well, i don`t really know, but the xray needs some weight on the exhaust side to be neutral balanced, so maybe this is the solution. And it will remove any tweak in the front without the axle spacer. For me its good because i will modify it. Now i need to get the latest alu holder and not get the first edition. The part number is the same without any V2 added. You can always use the plastic one ar do the mod i have. i`ll post a picture when i`ve don it. maybe PM it just to you ;) it will solve your weight isue i think
greetz

My guess is because this Alu Holder can also be used on the RX8 and it was changed to give added strength to support the middle axle.

This axle was prone to breakage on the on the RX8 with the older style design becasue of the gap between the holder to the side pulley (where is plastic spacer is). That is a weak point on the RX8.

Surprised to see that the alu holder is more than twice heavier than the composite holder :o:o
12g v 5.2g??? :weird:
http://slowbunnyrc.blogspot.com/2012...pro-build.html

NT1 PRO
 

OK,... the kit is done.... minus the body.. :D
http://slowbunnyrc.blogspot.com/2012...pro-ready.html



...

Hi Guyz,


What other clutch spring would you recommend aside from the Orion brand. I just acquire an NT1 from a friend and have been struggling with the clutch set up. I have also tried the manual recommendation for setting it, but still having some problem. :cry:

TIA ;)

Which Orion Engine do you have?

I have a CRF Wasp.. which is a very quick engine, the best way to set the NT1 clutch for this engine is:

Stock Spring
1.4mm Spring Pre-Load
0.5mm Clutch Gap

Thanks James,

Im currently using a Picco engine for this nt1, with the stock clutch spring which came from the kit. Im just wandering if there are still any other brand of clutch spring (aside from orion clutch spring) you guyz are using.

just wondering if any of you guyz have tried clutch spring from RRR, is it a direct fit?


Thanks for any help :)

With the Picco i use the mugen hard clutchspring with litlle preload and a clutch gap between 0,6 and 1mm according to how much wheelspin i want out off the corners.

Good to see , by the way, that xray redesigned the receiverbox lid without the rubber plug.
Now to get the right partnumbers to be able to order the new parts. I like the pictures Slowbunny. Thanks.

I want that new lid with no rubber plug hole!

Hate losing that rubber lid! they're far too expensive for what they are and they are easily lost.

Why doesn't anyone use the rear blade style sway bar ??

its a hassle to reproduce the setting. With the wire, you just change it and put the distance on the ends. Done. And next time on that circuit its the same. Also the blades tweak.

Also the rear blade setup costs a small fortune to upgrade to with no real benefit to the racer... The wire works fine!

In what situation would I use the 26 tooth pulley instead of the 25 tooth pulley or would I just use the 25 all the time. thanks in advance

Easiest way to use the correct side pulley.

Run a 2mm split on foam tires(front 2mm smaller), use the 25 tooth pulley!

If you're racing rubber tires which are the same diameter then use 26 tooth pulley!

There is lots you can do with overdrive ratios to make the car handle differently.
Only time I use 26t pulley is when it's really really wet and I have to use wet rubber tires, other wise I run 2mm split foam with 25T.