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Old 02-18-2010, 08:38 PM   #4846
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Read way back in the thread about the KM brakes but they don't seem to be listed on their website anymore. Came across these though...http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-ato...y-p-28924.html

Anyone know anything about these brake pads?
You comin out in TC this year??
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:36 PM   #4847
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You mean something like this right:

I have thought about it when i first saw it at the 1/8 worlds, but I don't think it will be an advantage on a 1/10.
The main reason to do the floating tray is to increase overall grip, but with a 1/10 you can change the flex by changing the chassis.
I don't think you will need more flex as you already can achieve with the 3mm chassis.
Another reason to do it is to get rid of tweak, but every single NT1 I have (I have 3 ) has 0 tweak in the chassis. Tweak comes from the shocks and ARB and I think a floating tray will only mask this.

I already have a design for the tray which doesn't need the linkages and is very compact and lightweight.
Of course it is very interesting to test how it works on a 1/10, but first I want to complete and test some other ideas I have which will improve the performance more as the floating tray does. I think....
Well... it cant be concluded that it won't work unless its test proven. If everything stayed on theory, what kind of world would we live in?



But I guess your right. There was a person that did this on their MTX-4R like Pietsch but with two pieces of carbon fiber instead of links.

What other ideas did you had in mind?

I already tried using this:



Shimmed it about 3mm outwards and I was able to maintain the same shock position.

I didnt actually used that part, but made a custom one with a broken shock tower. I removed it because the car felt like it had WAY too much sidebite and couldn't let me finish turns before trying to go straight.

I need to further test it with other setup changes and see how it goes.
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:08 PM   #4848
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You comin out in TC this year??
The research and studying has begun! Don't worry, I'm sure by the time the season starts I will have a list of questions for you.
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Old 02-19-2010, 07:38 AM   #4849
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The research and studying has begun! Don't worry, I'm sure by the time the season starts I will have a list of questions for you.
Just holla if you need something
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:56 AM   #4850
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Well... it cant be concluded that it won't work unless its test proven. If everything stayed on theory, what kind of world would we live in?



But I guess your right. There was a person that did this on their MTX-4R like Pietsch but with two pieces of carbon fiber instead of links.

What other ideas did you had in mind?

I already tried using this:

Shimmed it about 3mm outwards and I was able to maintain the same shock position.

I didnt actually used that part, but made a custom one with a broken shock tower. I removed it because the car felt like it had WAY too much sidebite and couldn't let me finish turns before trying to go straight.

I need to further test it with other setup changes and see how it goes.
Ain't that a coincidence.



Haven't tested them yet as it is still winter around here.
I've made them in such a way that the shock angle doesn't change. Only the mounting point will move to the outside.
Maybe with your mounts the shocks are far more inclined so, more sidebite.
On the shocktower I only use the second and third position. The bottom hole on the lower carbon mount used with the second on the tower will give the same angle as standard. The upper hole on the lower mount combined with the third on the tower also gives the same angle as stock.

I've made the same for the front, but still have to cut them out.

That's pretty much all I want to try on the current NT1.

I also started to design an entirely new rear and front end for the car.
I want to make it as the Tamiya 416 EP car.
So seperate suspensionblocks for the wishbones to increase overall traction and have the possibility to work with anti-dive/squat.
But this has turned into quite a project, because I keep getting even better ideas.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:18 AM   #4851
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For those of you running the High-dynamic Centrifugal-Axial (XCA) Clutch ...

What's the pros?

Any cons?

Thanks in advance ....
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:28 AM   #4852
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The research and studying has begun! Don't worry, I'm sure by the time the season starts I will have a list of questions for you.
What's up Craig this is dock are you going to run 8 scale this year. Also diatta I need a good all around set for my nt1 ec with soild spool, 25lbs dark blue springs in the rear and light purple springs in the front and with the kit shock fluild 50k or 60k. I'm I the ballpark not sure? Also diatta do you have any of those new xxl3 in with the new cooling head.
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Old 02-19-2010, 07:12 PM   #4853
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What's up Craig this is dock are you going to run 8 scale this year. Also diatta I need a good all around set for my nt1 ec with soild spool, 25lbs dark blue springs in the rear and light purple springs in the front and with the kit shock fluild 50k or 60k. I'm I the ballpark not sure? Also diatta do you have any of those new xxl3 in with the new cooling head.
Doc what's going on, I don't think RcAmerica received the new motors yet, but I'll have to check with them Monday on the availability... as for set up, what type of traction do you need it for??
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Old 02-20-2010, 07:25 AM   #4854
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Doc what's going on, I don't think RcAmerica received the new motors yet, but I'll have to check with them Monday on the availability... as for set up, what type of traction do you need it for??
I need a setup that will work at both blue diamond and 301 raceway
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:11 AM   #4855
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I need a setup that will work at both blue diamond and 301 raceway
The layout and and amount of traction that blue diamond and 301 had "last year" we're two totally different stories... But you could try this http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...1152&setup=nt1
for Blue Diamond, and next time I go out to 301 "if everything works out" I will be trying this out http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...1305&setup=nt1
The spool should be good when the bite is really high
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:54 AM   #4856
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For those of you running the High-dynamic Centrifugal-Axial (XCA) Clutch ...

What's the pros?

Any cons?

Thanks in advance ....
humm .... no replies .... does that mean no ones running the High-dynamic clutch ...
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:09 AM   #4857
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humm .... no replies .... does that mean no ones running the High-dynamic clutch ...
I have both xray clutchs but this is my first year with the car I haven't ran the car yet. However I the clutch is very small and I would think the clutch would perform close to the sirio clutch that I used on my vone rrr evo 2 wc last year.
If any thing less rotating mass is always better and a good thing
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:06 AM   #4858
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humm .... no replies .... does that mean no ones running the High-dynamic clutch ...
The high-dynamic is lighter and smaller as the stock clutch.
It provides in a smoother reaction in acceleration and de-acceleration.
However I currently have the High dynamic and the stock clutch with the aluminum bell and CSO flywheel and on my RB engine I prefer the modified stock clutch.
It has more punch and you can run a very aggressive clutch without burning the shoe, which happens very quickly with the High dynamic clutch.
With my modified MF engine I like running the high dynamic clutch because it suites the high revving nature of that engine. It helps it spool up fast.

So when you have a torquier RB like engine, I would suggest the stock clutch with some optionals to make it lighter.
For a high revving, high powerband (JP, Max) I would suggest the high dynamic clutch.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:08 AM   #4859
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thanks ... HoboShop & DS Motorsport
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:18 AM   #4860
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humm .... no replies .... does that mean no ones running the High-dynamic clutch ...
The high dynamic tends to work better on lower bite with smoother engagement points. The mahority of the team guys especially on american style tracks run the standard XCA including me
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