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Old 02-16-2010, 08:46 AM   #4831
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It's a 850Mah Lipo battery. It was a custom order because it is only 12mm thick, most lipos are 14-15mm thick.
I can run the car for about 1 hour with it before the red light of regulator lights up. It weighs 44 grams.
The same size but then thicker are used in small heli's
Something like this:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bat...?cPath=52_1276
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:11 PM   #4832
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OK, got it. Thanks.

I want to go with LiFe 850 like this

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Old 02-17-2010, 07:38 AM   #4833
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This has DS_Motorsport written all over it...




Ultralight transmission kit for NT1

Include:

Rear ultralight dogbones

Front ultralight universal swing shaft

2x Ultralight differential gears

2x ultralight bevel shaft

Xray Transmission Weight: 61.2gr
Capricorn Transmission Weight: 18.4gr

http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1179
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:52 AM   #4834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
This has DS_Motorsport written all over it...




Ultralight transmission kit for NT1

Include:

Rear ultralight dogbones

Front ultralight universal swing shaft

2x Ultralight differential gears

2x ultralight bevel shaft

Xray Transmission Weight: 61.2gr
Capricorn Transmission Weight: 18.4gr


http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1179
Only 18.4 grams ? Are these parts durable ? How much $ ?
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:52 AM   #4835
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Haha, that's funny.
I already saw them in my inbox.
But I already have the diff internals, only need some new outdrives so I can build a set of lightweight diff's

The driveshafts I don't want them anymore. They are made out of aluminum and I had them in the car last year.
During the final race of our clubracing season one of the driveshafts snapped off completely while I was leading the race. There weren't any signs of fatigue what so ever. So I think they are too unreliable, unless you change them after 2-3 races maybe. But that would be ridiculous.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:53 AM   #4836
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I dont think Capricorn would put a part which is that much fragile on their kit, assuming that they are the same material. It might be a failure because of another reason on your shafts.
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:00 AM   #4837
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Hey DS,

The 1500gr are without the Capricorn Diff Bevel gears??


Do you have some kind of list of the lightweight upgrades you have and how much weight they save per upgrade?
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:57 AM   #4838
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The 1500 includes the composite diff pieces, according to Capricorn they save 30 grams so I deducted that to the current weight of the car.

Ok here is the list of the changes I've done and if possible the weight save which goes with it.
All weights are in grams

Electronics

Battery:

Nimh 115
Lipo 44.1

New transponder 4.6

2x low profile servo's 44.5 a piece
normal servo's 60-65 a piece

All wiring shortened
No Receiver cover, receiver taped to throttle servo

Suspension

Alu. pivotballs 1.4 a piece
original pivotballs 3.7 a piece

nylon pivotball retainer 0.3 a piece
stock retainer 0.6 a piece

All Titanium trackrods, steering, upper camberlink, ARB link

Drivetrain

Hollow mid and 2 speed axles: 19.5
original 35.4

Lightweight first and second gear adapters.
Lightweight brakedisk retainer
Xceed brakedisk, machined to 27.8 diameter
Carbon brakepads
Capricorn diff internals
Lightweight diffoutdrives

Clutch
CSO flywheel
Aluminium bell
Total clutch weight: 30.5

Hardware

All Titanium except all bottom screws.
Aluminium screws in gearbox
Magnesium screws for suspension (fr. ARB)
Also Titanium screws for engine mount and the engine itself.
Titanium screw for fastening wing to the body.

I think this is pretty much it.
Currently the car weighs 1528 with body and the original bare xray rims.
The weight which I will be putting into the car weighs 203 so it will end up weighing 1699 or 1700 exactly.

@ Musti

Off course it could be that I was just unlucky and got a bad one.
But the fact it snapped under high load, the car was just shifting to second in a very fast, banked corner, I just don't trust it anymore. I never had a DNF all year because I take great care of my car, and that is one of the reasons I ended up in a fairly good position in my first year in the nationals.
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Old 02-17-2010, 11:05 AM   #4839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
The 1500 includes the composite diff pieces, according to Capricorn they save 30 grams so I deducted that to the current weight of the car.

Ok here is the list of the changes I've done and if possible the weight save which goes with it.
All weights are in grams

Electronics

Battery:

Nimh 115
Lipo 44.1

New transponder 4.6

2x low profile servo's 44.5 a piece
normal servo's 60-65 a piece

All wiring shortened
No Receiver cover, receiver taped to throttle servo

Suspension

Alu. pivotballs 1.4 a piece
original pivotballs 3.7 a piece

nylon pivotball retainer 0.3 a piece
stock retainer 0.6 a piece

All Titanium trackrods, steering, upper camberlink, ARB link

Drivetrain

Hollow mid and 2 speed axles: 19.5
original 35.4

Lightweight first and second gear adapters.
Lightweight brakedisk retainer
Xceed brakedisk, machined to 27.8 diameter
Carbon brakepads
Capricorn diff internals
Lightweight diffoutdrives

Clutch
CSO flywheel
Aluminium bell
Total clutch weight: 30.5

Hardware

All Titanium except all bottom screws.
Aluminium screws in gearbox
Magnesium screws for suspension (fr. ARB)
Also Titanium screws for engine mount and the engine itself.
Titanium screw for fastening wing to the body.

I think this is pretty much it.
Currently the car weighs 1528 with body and the original bare xray rims.
The weight which I will be putting into the car weighs 203 so it will end up weighing 1699 or 1700 exactly.

@ Musti

Off course it could be that I was just unlucky and got a bad one.
But the fact it snapped under high load, the car was just shifting to second in a very fast, banked corner, I just don't trust it anymore. I never had a DNF all year because I take great care of my car, and that is one of the reasons I ended up in a fairly good position in my first year in the nationals.
Thanks man!

I got more questions... How did you shorten the servo cable? Did you send it back to factory to get shortened? Did you open the servo casing and solder/unsolder there? Did you cut the cable and place a new adapter?

Xceed brakedisk... That the monolith one?
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Old 02-17-2010, 11:37 AM   #4840
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Opened up the servo's and re soldered the wiring to the PCB. Was the first time I did this. There is a very good guide in the electronics section about soldering. When I read that i decided to invest in some good soldering equipment and give it a go.
The brakedisk is the original one made by serpent and xceed for the 720.
Will try to make some pictures from my braking system

Oh some other mods I did is lowering the fueltank 4mm and lowering the throttle servo by 7mm and move it inward 2mm.
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:03 PM   #4841
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Read way back in the thread about the KM brakes but they don't seem to be listed on their website anymore. Came across these though...http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-ato...y-p-28924.html

Anyone know anything about these brake pads?
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:10 PM   #4842
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I have heard that with the KM pads and the Xceed type disks that the brake are actually too strong. I went with some modified Mugen yellow pads.
They work great with the Xceed disk and do not fade even after a fuel stop.
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:32 PM   #4843
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Double-check your KM pads guys. I had some trouble with mine and after disassembling, I found a nasty deformity on one of the sides.
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:55 PM   #4844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Opened up the servo's and re soldered the wiring to the PCB. Was the first time I did this. There is a very good guide in the electronics section about soldering. When I read that i decided to invest in some good soldering equipment and give it a go.
The brakedisk is the original one made by serpent and xceed for the 720.
Will try to make some pictures from my braking system

Oh some other mods I did is lowering the fueltank 4mm and lowering the throttle servo by 7mm and move it inward 2mm.
Thanks man! Very insightful that step-by-step on how to solder!

Have you ever thought of making the floating radio tray, with all your background in engineering that you seem to have (or do have)....?
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:17 PM   #4845
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You mean something like this right:



I have thought about it when i first saw it at the 1/8 worlds, but I don't think it will be an advantage on a 1/10.
The main reason to do the floating tray is to increase overall grip, but with a 1/10 you can change the flex by changing the chassis.
I don't think you will need more flex as you already can achieve with the 3mm chassis.
Another reason to do it is to get rid of tweak, but every single NT1 I have (I have 3 ) has 0 tweak in the chassis. Tweak comes from the shocks and ARB and I think a floating tray will only mask this.

I already have a design for the tray which doesn't need the linkages and is very compact and lightweight.
Of course it is very interesting to test how it works on a 1/10, but first I want to complete and test some other ideas I have which will improve the performance more as the floating tray does. I think....
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