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Old 07-27-2009, 12:58 AM   #4351
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Habib, it's just more of the cutout where the side belt tensioner is.
ok cool man, i thought they incorporated more flex (narrower design) or something

just suming up how much cash i need if i want to make a serious attempt at the Australian Nationals

not looking good
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:53 AM   #4352
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[QUOTE=musti72;6119438]Hi, I recently broke one more Universal Shaft of my NT1. It was broken where the axle and shaft meets. It had happened one more time before, since then I was running dogbone on that side and no problem with that... The other CVD on the other side is finally broken from the same place!!

Did that happen to you before? I was running 90-100% Dualrate, and it was 25degree on %100. I know that most of the racers run full Dualrate, so it shouldnt be the problem.

I ordered my dogbones so I will be running dogbones at all four corners from now on!

Anyone experienced?

When I put my car on set up guages I set maximum turn at 17 degrees at full dual rate. I try to get the steering I need with full turn between 15 an17 degree max. Worked on other parts of geometry to get the steer and have no problems with not having enough steering, At times I do need to reduce the dual rate on given days. This works for me. I was told that the less the front wheels are turned in a corner the more corner speed you can carry but of course you first must get around the corner. Not sure if this is right or wrong and as I said this works for me.
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:04 AM   #4353
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100% dualrate on your transmitter/receiver/servo combination isn't the same as another car. So giving the degree like you did is a better option to compare. I don't know my degree, i'll probably measure it tonight.

What about maintenance, do you clean them often and replace pins?
I read in xray forum that Martin Hudy uses around 30 degree. Thats why I dont think its the problem.

I cleaned them but there wasnt any reason to change the pins, they seemed quite new.
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:14 AM   #4354
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When I put my car on set up guages I set maximum turn at 17 degrees at full dual rate. I try to get the steering I need with full turn between 15 an17 degree max. Worked on other parts of geometry to get the steer and have no problems with not having enough steering, At times I do need to reduce the dual rate on given days. This works for me. I was told that the less the front wheels are turned in a corner the more corner speed you can carry but of course you first must get around the corner. Not sure if this is right or wrong and as I said this works for me.
You are lucky if it works for you, because if I set dualrate low as 17-20 degrees, and setup the car for that much steering, when I try to get the car turn, car doesnt actually turn in to corners, the rear end slides other way around so its not a healthy way for me.

About corner speed, I use just needed steering on the large corners so it doesnt lose speed, but full turn helps on slow and tight corners.

Another note: When the first one broke, I also tried mugen universal shaft with xrays wheel axle. It worked some time, but I couldnt test it for a longer time for durability.
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:16 AM   #4355
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ok cool man, i thought they incorporated more flex (narrower design) or something

just suming up how much cash i need if i want to make a serious attempt at the Australian Nationals

not looking good
Thomas are you up to your tricks again????
If I can make a serious attempt at the nationals with Twiggys old car (getting on to 2 years now) and a couple of 1.5 yrold donks,Im sure that you will get by with all the equipment that you have in your kit wether it be the upside down , inverted or just plain the right way up.
Thomas If you can just listen ,learn, put all the things that are available to all of us together on the track and just Bloody drive fast then you should be able to reach the a mains.
Remember there are no secrets to going fast , you just have to go fast!
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Old 07-27-2009, 05:25 AM   #4356
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Did anyone notice that Dirk was running his Xray without a foam bumper?
And what's with the horizontal body posts at the back?
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:01 AM   #4357
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Did anyone notice that Dirk was running his Xray without a foam bumper?
And what's with the horizontal body posts at the back?
The horizontal body posts are there to keep the body from tucking and catching on to the rear tires in case of impact. You can use front body posts or the Xray "Back stoppers."
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:29 AM   #4358
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Did anyone notice that Dirk was running his Xray without a foam bumper?
And what's with the horizontal body posts at the back?
How to attach body post on the top plate?
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:44 AM   #4359
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The horizontal body posts are there to keep the body from tucking and catching on to the rear tires in case of impact. You can use front body posts or the Xray "Back stoppers."
why is his 353 '09 using a silver crank case? is it the old 353 '08 with a 353 '09 heatsink for promotional/sponsorship purposes?
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:46 AM   #4360
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How to attach body post on the top plate?
use a long grub screw, and put some 333 loctite in the servo post hole and then screw in the post.

screw a pilot screw first (take it out afterwards obviously lol) into the post so it goes into the grub screw easier.
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:53 AM   #4361
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Hi guys I have a small issue and just wandered if anyone has come accross it, did a rebuild on my shocks tonight just the standard 08 shocks and 3 came up fine nice and smooth with good rebound but the 4th was nearly impossible to push in the shaft in I checked that the holes are all clear in the ring cap and the two fluid holes on the shaft all good but tested again and still no good?I changed over from one of the other shocks the top with membrane etc but still no good could it be a bent shaft or twisted housing?
cheers
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:57 AM   #4362
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Originally Posted by aussies1129 View Post
Hi guys I have a small issue and just wandered if anyone has come accross it, did a rebuild on my shocks tonight just the standard 08 shocks and 3 came up fine nice and smooth with good rebound but the 4th was nearly impossible to push in the shaft in I checked that the holes are all clear in the ring cap and the two fluid holes on the shaft all good but tested again and still no good?I changed over from one of the other shocks the top with membrane etc but still no good could it be a bent shaft or twisted housing?
cheers
this usually happens when you put too much oil in the shocks. open the bottom cap and move the piston in and out a bit to let some oil out
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:03 AM   #4363
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
this usually happens when you put too much oil in the shocks. open the bottom cap and move the piston in and out a bit to let some oil out
I will drop a bit out funny that the other three work perfect?thanks Tom.
cheers
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:10 AM   #4364
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
use a long grub screw, and put some 333 loctite in the servo post hole and then screw in the post.

screw a pilot screw first (take it out afterwards obviously lol) into the post so it goes into the grub screw easier.
Whats a pilot screw? sorry noob here.
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:24 AM   #4365
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Originally Posted by AdrianOngs View Post
Whats a pilot screw? sorry noob here.
just screw in any longish screw into the post hole first so that the screw threads the plastic and enlarges the hole a bit, then take this screw out and screw the post onto the grub screw
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