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Old 06-24-2009, 03:11 PM   #4231
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lol anyway i am just a little frustraited since i will have to buy again all the lightweight parts of the new clutch.... but very nice indeed would like to purchase one
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:50 PM   #4232
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I'm not going to switch to smaller, lighter, xca clucth. I remember my ex G4S also use much smaller diameter clutch than mugen seiki. ( Probably the new xca clucth will be the same size like in G4S's clutch shoe ).

Two problems : sensitive to overheat problem if I dont tweak it right , and the clucth only last 2 races max. Increasing the cost for racing.
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Old 06-25-2009, 04:43 PM   #4233
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I agree with asw7576. I would have thought a bigger clutch (larger contact area on the clutch shoe/bell) would be better. More consistent. But i could be wrong. For an average joe driver would i notice the difference the light weight clutch makes or should i save my money for other stuff.

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Old 06-25-2009, 05:38 PM   #4234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grub View Post
check your servo travel if you have to much travel it will pull on the carby causing the engine to move just enough to stuff the gears ,also what gear split are you running this cause me plenty of head aches
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Hey there guys I have been running the nt1 for a couple of years now, and I feel that it is a great handling car, however I am becomming ever so frustrated with stripping 2nd gear during a main. This has happened almost everytime in the last year. I run a red dot motor and I like it a lot for the price, my friend also runs an nt1 and he says that it is the peco motor. I just find it hard to believe that the motor can be the problem because when i install the spur gears the mesh is perfect so i just don't get it. I am to the point where i am ready to get rid of the car for something else. Maybe the new velox.
im fairly new to this on-road nitro. i usually run tc electric carpet....i decided to give on-road nitro a shot, and so far its awesome!! anyhow, i just wanted comment that, a body of mine encountered the same problem. he runs the mtx3 and he also runs the "picco red dot" engine and it also stripped his 2nd gear.
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Old 06-29-2009, 04:44 AM   #4235
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Default RB Fuel testing

so yesterday was the last race of the season. little i know that the race was going to be canceled because of lack racers. anyway the remaining two racers and myself stayed there and tested some set-ups since we had the computer to see our times. one of the test was going to be the rb fuel, like i promised you freestyles. i richened the engine a bit and started going. the engine was Very rich, my mechanic(father) started leaning it out, the engine was around the 90 degrees celcius mark but was still very rich, continiued leaning, the engine went up to 105 degrees max, and the engine was going prety well but once i stopped and shut down the engine to make some set ups on the car the engine went rich again, go figure, i had this problem going on for about two hours, my guese for going rich is because of weather changes and maybe because of my clutch set-up being to soft and bogging down the engine. anyway decided to really lean the engine and finally the engine really came alive running again happilly at around 120 degrees, since then it never went rich on me again(maybe because i finally changes the clutch set up to a very hard and agressive one). in the end of the day the car was going like a train, recording the fastest time among the reast of the two and finally found the set up of this track. as for the rb fuel i can just say that it was good, expected some more, but defenetly better than my tornado fuel, will see in the future how good this rb fuel with further tests.
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:36 PM   #4236
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Originally Posted by Nitro-Racer* View Post
so yesterday was the last race of the season. little i know that the race was going to be canceled because of lack racers. anyway the remaining two racers and myself stayed there and tested some set-ups since we had the computer to see our times. one of the test was going to be the rb fuel, like i promised you freestyles. i richened the engine a bit and started going. the engine was Very rich, my mechanic(father) started leaning it out, the engine was around the 90 degrees celcius mark but was still very rich, continiued leaning, the engine went up to 105 degrees max, and the engine was going prety well but once i stopped and shut down the engine to make some set ups on the car the engine went rich again, go figure, i had this problem going on for about two hours, my guese for going rich is because of weather changes and maybe because of my clutch set-up being to soft and bogging down the engine. anyway decided to really lean the engine and finally the engine really came alive running again happilly at around 120 degrees, since then it never went rich on me again(maybe because i finally changes the clutch set up to a very hard and agressive one). in the end of the day the car was going like a train, recording the fastest time among the reast of the two and finally found the set up of this track. as for the rb fuel i can just say that it was good, expected some more, but defenetly better than my tornado fuel, will see in the future how good this rb fuel with further tests.
What motor did you use? Definately your clutch can have a big impact on your tune and make you think your too rich when in fact your clutch is just too loose. Thanks for posting some feedback on the fuel. Do you run your motor usually at 120 deg. celcius? My last race i came off at 125 deg. celcius and i feel that's about 10 deg. too hot. I was driving very hard and i think maybe my 2 speed was kicking in a bit late so i'm hoping they were the contributing factors. It was still blowing smoke and making good speed so it couldn't have been too bad for it i suppose. Thanks again mate.
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Old 06-29-2009, 04:01 PM   #4237
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from my signature you can see that i run the novarossi 12-3SCT engine. this engine loves running at 115 degrees at least, that is were it start coming alive. tempereture is just an indicator, but i feel that novas have to run hot to give out there maximum performance. usualy i tune my engine before the race at 110-115 degees so that when the race is finished the engine is around the 120-130 degrees mark.
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Old 06-29-2009, 04:44 PM   #4238
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from my signature you can see that i run the novarossi 12-3SCT engine. this engine loves running at 115 degrees at least, that is were it start coming alive. tempereture is just an indicator, but i feel that novas have to run hot to give out there maximum performance. usualy i tune my engine before the race at 110-115 degees so that when the race is finished the engine is around the 120-130 degrees mark.
Oh yeah sorry i didn't see it when i replied to your post. I run an RB at the moment (nova based) and i too find it runs it's best around the 120 deg. mark. I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

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Old 06-30-2009, 11:57 AM   #4239
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talking about clutches the best thing i ever did was buy the aluminium clutch bell for my nt1. It increased the sweet spot of the clutch, eliminated all the burn marks i was getting on the yellow shoe, increased punch, and made the clutch perform better overall.

i don't think the smaller clutch is really required. Xray themselves said during the testing that it wasn't suited to some track conditions that required more punch, the clutch didn't punch as well as the standard version.

if you need less punch then just drop in the white shoe onto the aluminum bell or the steel bell, problem solved.

Infact i've seen some people screw in grub screws onto the grey flyweights to increase the weight of this part and hence increase punch.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:00 PM   #4240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro-Racer* View Post
from my signature you can see that i run the novarossi 12-3SCT engine. this engine loves running at 115 degrees at least, that is were it start coming alive. tempereture is just an indicator, but i feel that novas have to run hot to give out there maximum performance. usualy i tune my engine before the race at 110-115 degees so that when the race is finished the engine is around the 120-130 degrees mark.
agree my max runs best at 120 to 130 degrees. obviously there's leeway in this dependant ont he temp gun you use. I set up my temp gun to read 100 degrees celcius when water is boiling in a non reflective pot (ie cast iron pot) water boils of at 100 celcius so if my temp gun reads this i know it is only 1 or 2 degrees of calibration at the most.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:19 PM   #4241
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Yet we still dont see you racing lol
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:34 AM   #4242
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Quote:
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talking about clutches the best thing i ever did was buy the aluminium clutch bell for my nt1. It increased the sweet spot of the clutch, eliminated all the burn marks i was getting on the yellow shoe, increased punch, and made the clutch perform better overall.

i don't think the smaller clutch is really required. Xray themselves said during the testing that it wasn't suited to some track conditions that required more punch, the clutch didn't punch as well as the standard version.

if you need less punch then just drop in the white shoe onto the aluminum bell or the steel bell, problem solved.

Infact i've seen some people screw in grub screws onto the grey flyweights to increase the weight of this part and hence increase punch.
Did you have any problems on aluminum clutch bell about inside(where the bell and shoe contacts) of it? Mine wears and gets thiner everytime I use it.
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:00 AM   #4243
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Thats normal and the nagtive aspect of the aluminium clutch bell.
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:04 AM   #4244
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Did you have any problems on aluminum clutch bell about inside(where the bell and shoe contacts) of it? Mine wears and gets thiner everytime I use it.
no mine doesn't wear down. The only time i had this happen was when the clutch came apart and some weird stuf happened. it wore away the hard anodising. Since this has happened i used it in a large event and didn't notice any change. infact i had to sand down the inside of the bell as it did not smooth itself out with normal use after this accident happened which would insinuate that it wasn't wearing out at all.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:04 PM   #4245
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Default RB Fuel

so today i tested the fuel on another "track" and i can clearly say now that rb fuel is very good indeed, the engine was performing Great at just 100 degrees while other times with the tornado fuel i had to go up to 120 degrees to give me the same performance...
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