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Old 04-29-2009, 02:53 PM   #4111
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Hello from France,

the Ins-Box is the new RB especially designed for 1/10th.

The RB T9RC is awesome!!!
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Old 04-29-2009, 03:04 PM   #4112
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Hello from France,

the Ins-Box is the new RB especially designed for 1/10th.

The RB T9RC is awesome!!!
Thanks will look into finding one in the states.
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Old 05-01-2009, 01:42 PM   #4113
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With the 2009 spec kit, is there anything outside of what comes in the kit that is needed ?
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Old 05-01-2009, 02:17 PM   #4114
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What do you mean, to get it race ready?.

The only thing i would change is the wheel hexes. Stock they still supply the car with the plastic versions which are completely unusable. Everytime you remove the wheel the hex comes with it and you lose the pin.
So change the hexes for the alu one's (-0.75) and you're ready to race.
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:27 PM   #4115
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I understand your point and I agree with your calculations. The only problem is that by doing so, I brake the 9.2mm rule. In that case it would be 9.4mm, which I do not know if it is right to have.
Thanks
i found the paperwork the new numbers are 9.2-9.3mm for engine setup
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:01 PM   #4116
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does the mugen clutch/ pinion tool work for the nt-1?
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:25 PM   #4117
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does the mugen clutch/ pinion tool work for the nt-1?
I'm not sure about the piece that goes inside the clutch bell, I'd go with the Hudy personally, but maybe someone else has tried the mugen and was successful...
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:21 PM   #4118
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does the mugen clutch/ pinion tool work for the nt-1?
The hudy tool didnt work with the mugen pinions so if i had to guess i would say no
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:12 AM   #4119
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What do you mean, to get it race ready?.

The only thing i would change is the wheel hexes. Stock they still supply the car with the plastic versions which are completely unusable. Everytime you remove the wheel the hex comes with it and you lose the pin.
So change the hexes for the alu one's (-0.75) and you're ready to race.
I just bought the 08 kit and there are a few things i want to change straight up. Does anyone have part numbers for -0.75 hex's? Do they have to be that off set?
Alloy shock bodies, alloy front anti roll bar mounts and the optional battery to lower the CG even more?

Any help would be great.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:26 AM   #4120
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I'm not sure about the piece that goes inside the clutch bell, I'd go with the Hudy personally, but maybe someone else has tried the mugen and was successful...
That piece does not catch the bell correctly. The other part that unscrews the pinions is OK.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:29 PM   #4121
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I'm putting my nt1 08 together and i've come accross a few things that i'm not sure about. Has anyone else had these issues?

1. The rear diff seems to be floating around a bit so i had to put a .1mm shim on one side (that helped align the belt properly to).

2. Front cvd's and rear axles had to be shimmed to loose excess play (even with wheels on it was sloppy) so i had to put a .1mm shim

3. Side belt comes in contact with the button head screw on tension adjustment.


After hearing how easily these kits go together i'm a little confused as to why i'm having these issues. Everything else seems top notch though, the drive train is the smoothest i've seen and the suspension is so free it's not funny. The plastics look strong aswell.
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:06 AM   #4122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I'm putting my nt1 08 together and i've come accross a few things that i'm not sure about. Has anyone else had these issues?

1. The rear diff seems to be floating around a bit so i had to put a .1mm shim on one side (that helped align the belt properly to).
Is that fully assembled? I have the same, dont' feel its that important as long as the cap isn't too big. As you did, shimming it out is perfect.

Quote:
2. Front cvd's and rear axles had to be shimmed to loose excess play (even with wheels on it was sloppy) so i had to put a .1mm shim
Same here. It became even more with different bearings.

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3. Side belt comes in contact with the button head screw on tension adjustment.
That's weird.

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After hearing how easily these kits go together i'm a little confused as to why i'm having these issues. Everything else seems top notch though, the drive train is the smoothest i've seen and the suspension is so free it's not funny. The plastics look strong aswell.
Yep, that totally rocks
But the things you point out are minor issues. The play is sometimes even needed for heating up or different conditions....
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:10 AM   #4123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I'm putting my nt1 08 together and i've come accross a few things that i'm not sure about. Has anyone else had these issues?

1. The rear diff seems to be floating around a bit so i had to put a .1mm shim on one side (that helped align the belt properly to).

2. Front cvd's and rear axles had to be shimmed to loose excess play (even with wheels on it was sloppy) so i had to put a .1mm shim

3. Side belt comes in contact with the button head screw on tension adjustment.


After hearing how easily these kits go together i'm a little confused as to why i'm having these issues. Everything else seems top notch though, the drive train is the smoothest i've seen and the suspension is so free it's not funny. The plastics look strong aswell.
Shims are life savers!!!!
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:17 AM   #4124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I'm putting my nt1 08 together and i've come accross a few things that i'm not sure about. Has anyone else had these issues?

1. The rear diff seems to be floating around a bit so i had to put a .1mm shim on one side (that helped align the belt properly to).

2. Front cvd's and rear axles had to be shimmed to loose excess play (even with wheels on it was sloppy) so i had to put a .1mm shim

3. Side belt comes in contact with the button head screw on tension adjustment.


After hearing how easily these kits go together i'm a little confused as to why i'm having these issues. Everything else seems top notch though, the drive train is the smoothest i've seen and the suspension is so free it's not funny. The plastics look strong aswell.
Shouldn't worry about the play on the diff and front and rear axle's.
I shimmed it out once but when the car became very hot in a race, one of the rear end bearings locked up. So like cyclops said, you need a bit of play to account for expanding of the various part during hard conditions.

Don't know about the button head screw which hits the belt, i use the wider belt on the car and have about a 1.5mm gap between the screw and the belt.
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:25 AM   #4125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I'm putting my nt1 08 together and i've come accross a few things that i'm not sure about. Has anyone else had these issues?

1. The rear diff seems to be floating around a bit so i had to put a .1mm shim on one side (that helped align the belt properly to).

2. Front cvd's and rear axles had to be shimmed to loose excess play (even with wheels on it was sloppy) so i had to put a .1mm shim

3. Side belt comes in contact with the button head screw on tension adjustment.


After hearing how easily these kits go together i'm a little confused as to why i'm having these issues. Everything else seems top notch though, the drive train is the smoothest i've seen and the suspension is so free it's not funny. The plastics look strong aswell.

I've come across anther thing The aluminium piece that holds the exhaust pipe stay to the upper deck does not fit in without a bit of dremmel work. I've checked and checked and double checked the manual and i'm not doing anything wrong, it actually looks different than the manual's. Has anyone else had this problem or did i get a dud kit?
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